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Plasti dip or emblem overlays?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Natenite, Feb 10, 2020.

  1. Feb 10, 2020 at 2:35 PM
    #21
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Chief Executive Officer at Kwik Fab

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    Why not just remove the emblems; costs you nothing but a few minutes of time

    :notsure:

    Otherwise just replace.
     
  2. Feb 10, 2020 at 2:40 PM
    #22
    tacomainthesun

    tacomainthesun Well-Known Member

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    For sure. PITA if it’s on a detailed surface:annoyed:
     
  3. Feb 10, 2020 at 2:53 PM
    #23
    Tysoncrosby21

    Tysoncrosby21 Member

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    Take your time and do it right with multiple light coats over a couple hours and it looks perfect. I did my badges, fender flares and chrome bumper covers and you would NEVER guess it's plasti dip.

    The people that get poor results rush too many thick coats and don't prep properly.
     
  4. Feb 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM
    #24
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    Idk, after trying to get it off of something and it needing a pressure washer, Ill never touch the shit. Id rather do it the right way and take the emblems off, paint them etc.
     
  5. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:04 PM
    #25
    Tysoncrosby21

    Tysoncrosby21 Member

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    If it took more than just peeling a corner and lifting you did it wrong. I peeled all my badges/flares and bumper cover and it took about 20 minutes, then I resprayed them all. That's the advantage of plasti dip. If it gets nicked or scratched or marred you can just peel and repaint. You scratch or ding a badge that's been done "the right way" and you're stripping badges and paint.

    Don't insult the product because you didn't know how to utilize it properly.
     
  6. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:13 PM
    #26
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    I myself have never used the product. I bought some wheels that had that shit all over them. Even the guy I had sandblast them told me to get rid of the dip before he would even touch em haha.

    As I said before, Ive never seen it done in a way thats pleasing to my eye. It has a specific look to it that sets it apart from paint and gives it away as a rubber dip. Also, the durability sucks. Sure you can redo it, but with a proper paint job (primer, wetsand, multiple base coats, a few clear coats) you wont need to worry about scratches unless you go digging your key into it or something, just like the paint on your truck.
     
  7. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:20 PM
    #27
    Tysoncrosby21

    Tysoncrosby21 Member

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    The durability is fantastic if you take care of it. You can purchase a product that's a protectant of sorts which makes it slick and prevents scratches, dents and nicks.

    So, you're providing an uneducated non first hand opinion of a product you think you don't like but have never used.

    Also, "proper paint job" on something as simple as badges just seems excessive, expensive and unneccesary.

    Plastidip from a rattle can has its applications, coating badges and small details on a vehicle is a perfect use case for the product. You got wheels that had a shitty coat of plasti dip. Again, that's not the products fault. I've done wheels for myself and friends with plastidip that lasted years and looked great.
     
    tacomainthesun likes this.
  8. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:29 PM
    #28
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    Read this again.

    My opinion is that dip just looks like you cut corners and cheaped out. You dont wanna give the emblems a good paint job that will last forever? Ok, they make black ones too. Just swap em out.
     
  9. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:40 PM
    #29
    Tysoncrosby21

    Tysoncrosby21 Member

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    Again, it doesn't if done right. You can stack plastidip right next to badges "done right" and I guarantee if both are done properly you can't tell.

    But again, uneducated opinion from someone with no first hand experience. You also have to consider cost. Not everyone wants to drop 130-140 bucks on badges.

    Properly done plastidip looks EXACTLY like a badge swap.

    Also, just because you don't like it doesn't mean it's the "aids of the automotive world." Seems a bit excessive of a judgement for someone that again, has never used the product.
     
  10. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:07 PM
    #30
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    He didn't apply the product, but he did say he had the stuff on some wheels he had, and even said the tech said to take the crap off before he'd touch them. I wouldn't call that zero experience with it.

    As someone who HAS done it, the whole point of the stuff is that it's temporary, i.e. not durable.

    It looks nice at first, but will eventually flake off or chip, especially on high traffic areas.

    When I did my fender flairs, I took them off, sanded everything down to the primer (clear was coming off) and applied 6 or 7 coats of the stuff. Almost 2x what is recommended and definitely more prep than what's recommended. I noticed that even within a few months parts were chipping/peeling off.

    At best, plastidip is a decent temporary fix that can be removed if you want to. If you want a permanent fix, go with something that's... permanent. As Daniel said above, if you don't half ass a paint job, it's just as durable as the paint on your body work.
     
    Blue92 likes this.
  11. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:11 PM
    #31
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    Couldnt have said it better.
     
    jbrandt[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:14 PM
    #32
    Tysoncrosby21

    Tysoncrosby21 Member

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    I painted my fender flares without all the steps you took. I cleaned the vehicle really well, taped and painted. It's been a year and there are zero chips, flakes or issues.

    If you took all those steps and still had chipping and peeling you 100% did something wrong. There is no situation or scenario where if properly applied and maintained plasti dip will last a few months.

    Having the paint be peelable on badges so if you do catch a rock to a badge you aren't having to deal with stripping paint and redoing a very intricate paint job seems like way more of a hassle than just dipping the badges.
     
  13. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:18 PM
    #33
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Sure buddy.

    If anything the fact that I sanded down to the primer it should have stuck BETTER than just spraying it over clean clear coat. But yeah, I fucked it up. Definitely.

    I also drive my truck off road, and use it generally as a pickup truck should be used haul dirt bikes, sand rocks, dirt, trash, etc..., so in retrospect, something that is designed to be easily peeled off wasn't the best choice for me.

    I'm glad it works for you, though.
     
  14. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:21 PM
    #34
    Tysoncrosby21

    Tysoncrosby21 Member

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    My truck is used to haul dogs in and out of clients property. In a rural area, I'm constantly on gross gravel and dirt roads with rocks being thrown on my flares. Your assumption that because you 'go off road and use your truck' you put your truck through more punishment than someone else is stupid and insulting.

    You can call me a liar all you want but there is no situation where plasti dip on an area like fender flares peels in a few months if taken care of.

    People who know how to apply and maintain plasti dip can get 2-3 years out of an application with no peeling or chipping. You did it wrong. You didn't apply it properly. If you hold the can too far or close it doesn't adhere properly.

    Research the product. If you apply properly and maintain you should get at least 2 years of use.
     
  15. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:30 PM
    #35
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    I think by definition if I use my truck off road that means that it sees more abuse than someone else's. If you take offense, that says more about you than it does me.

    Like I said:

    I'm glad it worked for you,

    I'm just here posting about how it didn't work for me. At no point did I call, or even suggest you're a liar.
     
    Kwikvette likes this.
  16. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:34 PM
    #36
    Tysoncrosby21

    Tysoncrosby21 Member

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    Not offended, just seems line you were playing the "well, uh, I USE my truck like a truck is supposed to be used" card, assuming that I just daily drive mine on the highway in 70 degree weather.

    Again, the way your plasti dip responded to wear and tear isn't consistent with information that's out there when it's properly applied.
     
  17. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:49 PM
    #37
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Sorry, not offended, just "insulted" (your words)

    Read between the lines of what I wrote however you wish, but I was just saying that especially the way I use my truck, a temporary peel-able rubberized coating probably wasn't the best for me.

    I already described how I applied it, but you seem to think I'm not telling the truth, which is ironic since you thought I was calling you a liar.

    Who knows, maybe in the time since I did mine 4 or 5 years ago they've changed their formula to be more suitable to my needs, but I'm just not willing to give them another chance. I'll just go with something I KNOW is durable (bed liner), if it comes to that.

    To it's credit however, the stuff hasn't continued to peel off, it still looks fairly decent from a few feet away, it just had a few chips in it really early on.

     
  18. Feb 10, 2020 at 5:03 PM
    #38
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    I think when I get around to doing my flares I'll pull them off and go with that SEM bumper coater aerosol. I dont like the idea of having to pull everything back off in two years to recoat with anything. Even if it does look good at first. Takes a bit more work, but the results will far outperform plastidip in the long run.
     
  19. Feb 10, 2020 at 6:35 PM
    #39
    ontarioyota

    ontarioyota Well-Known Member

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    Blacked out badges-rims OME lift with 881's & dakar pacs, summer tires=BFG 31x10.5x15 on 93 4runner rims,winter= 265 75 16 DURATRACS on stock steelies,Flowmaster exhaust, deck plate mod, ARB front bumper
    EASY GUYS!

    I have painted and dipped emblems and accents and each has its own advantages.

    If you were really fussy I would just buy new black emblems and call it a day.

    My door badges on the taco were removed and painted black over eight years ago and I'm constantly touching them up. Maybe my prep. was not perfect but I did try hard....krylon plastic paint. Chrome is hard to paint.

    I had better luck with the Krylon on the tailgate badges.....Picture with the duck is over eight years painted.IMG_0682.jpg
     
  20. Feb 10, 2020 at 6:52 PM
    #40
    ontarioyota

    ontarioyota Well-Known Member

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    I have had success with plasty dip on my old tundra on the centre caps of wheels that were not used in the winter. Dip must be babysat when you are washing touching rubbing etc.

    I just dipped my emblems on my RAV4 along with centre caps some grill chrome pieces and fog light bezels. It looks good now but time will tell but I had to get rid of the chrome!

    IMG_8449.jpg IMG_7974.jpg IMG_8107.jpg IMG_8082.jpg IMG_8001.jpg
     
    tacomainthesun likes this.

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