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Pliny's super secret build and BS thread

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds' started by Pliny, Jul 29, 2013.

  1. Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    if its just a bit of play..i wouldn't be too worried yet. But keep an eye on it as yes its probably a tierod.

    i knew my clutch was going out when it would slip while i was starting off in 1st just to get going. Sure enough, my clutch was damn near done when i changed it.

    funny about the door tho :p haha

    yea just bleed the system and then pull the wheels to inspect. Can you tell where its coming from at all?
     
  2. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    10-4 on the wheel play. Will add it to the list of things to deal with, sooner rather than later.

    My clutch does slip a little in 1st, but not that bad at all. For Over 100K on the clutch and me teaching myself how to drive a standard with this truck, it's doing pretty darn well. But I think the later of that contributed to a lot of wear lol.

    I think it's somewhere in the front of the truck. But it's really hard to tell. The key symptoms are grinding/clunking felt through the brake pedal (not so much an audible thing, but I was also listening to skate punk so I may have just not heard it :eek: ) and serious brake fade (I suppose that's the best way to describe it - brakes work fine initially while slowing down, then suddenly significantly decreased stopping power). When testing after almost rear-ending my buddy the stopping power was fine, but the clunk was still there. The grinding felt mechanical, like gears grinding. Which is freaking weird.

    I should clarify on the spongy brakes thing - after a couple pumps they get firm again. Does that change anything? Bleeding still seems like a good course of action....
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
  3. Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    mine just slipped a tad too. ONly had 117k? on it. But i learned on it..offroaded it and taught 3 other people on it haha

    okay brake fad. Thats different. Bleed em for sure. check your lines for a leak or just tad loose connection.
     
  4. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    The grinding/clunk though. That's what's throwing me off.

    It wasn't brake fade in the traditional sense. It was Driving 30, apply brakes, slowing down as normal until 15mph, crazy grinding feeling through the pedal and 20% stopping power from 15mph-0.

    I will check for leaks again tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure there are none. Wheeling in southern california = dust on EVERYTHING. Makes it really easy to see if anything's leaking anywhere on your rig.
     
  5. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    Googlefu suggests it could be a problem with ABS / a wheel sensor based on the symptoms. Now to figure out how to test that.
     
  6. Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    BFG KM2 33x12.5 tires, Wheelers Type B rims, Allpro 1.5'' Wheel spacers w/extended thread lug nuts 2 Alpine 10'' Type Xs 2 Kicker 6X9s 4 Sony 5 1/4s Pioneer 4100 HU Sway bar removed 4 Hella 500 HIDs Frankenstein Leaf packs 1'' lift shackles Eibach coils 5100s front 10'' 5150s rear BAMF BPV bracket Deckplate mod Elite Front bumper Magnaflow 14'' muffler Elite Off Road Rear bumper with Tire gate with jerry can and fold down table, BAMF sliders, Custom Homemade Bed, rack/roof rack, CVT Mt. Shasta Roof Top Tent, 20lb CO2 tank, BAMF diff skid custom front skid, GM CS144 140 amp alternator Blitzpro 21s HAWK side LEDs Blitzpro Custom made side mirror lights, LightForce 240 Blitz llights, Piaa 510 ION fogs, XRC8 Winch w/in cab controls,
    When you first said it was in the pedal i though about ABS..as thats what it does..it feels like the pedal is shaking and there is a odd grinding noise..

    but..i have NO idea why it would be coming on..

    so i didn't think that was it..

    just pull the ABS fuse..if no problems come back..solved.
     
  7. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    Well I was driving on a shitty road (asphault?) with patches of loose sand/dirt on top. That was when it grinded the worse. Was between trails. The testing afterward was in loose sand/dirt and didn't have the grinding, just the clunk (which conceivably could be something separate entirely as I've had one off and on for a while now). Maybe the loose sand/dirt on hard surface confused the ABS stuff. Will pull the fuse and see what happens. Or just put the pin back in my UG lol.
     
  8. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    OK, did some more testing today:

    Brakes appear fine. LOTS of pad life left (this is passenger, but driver looks the same):
    [​IMG]

    No rocks/obstructions in the calipers / etc as far as I can tell. No leaks.

    I'm beginning to think more and more that it was ABS kicking in (I've never had it do that before, AFAIK, so I don't have anything to compare it to).

    I jacked the truck up and yanked on outer tie rods, cv's, control arms, and spindle. Nothing has any play in it as far as I can tell (well CV's slight horizontal, but that's supposed to happen). I can turn the wheel with the caliper (with keys in), and no noticeable play. There IS slight play on both front wheels horizontally (3 & 9). Driver is more noticeable, but there IS a very small amount on the passenger side.

    I'm beginning to think that it's the steering rack guide:
    http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160576

    I noticed what could be a slight leak around that big ol' bolt when I did the diff drop recently, but I thought it was just from servicing the u-joint right there. Based on the symptoms described in the above thread, it seems like that could be my mystery clunk.

    There is probably a 1/4" of play in the steering wheel, which I thought could be remedied with the tack weld some folks put on. So, I tested that today, and there does seem to be some play between the two pieces of the steering column below the dash. What gets interesting is I tried to tighten that bolt there, and felt a bit of a clunk every time I tried to tighten, similar to the clunk I've noticed recently. So, I'm thinking the mystery clunk has something to do with the steering rack.
     
  9. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    In case somebody stumbles upon this thread looking for how to adjust the steering rack guide - this was a pretty cool trick I learned on ttora. Use a 5/8" coupler. Got it for ~$1.50 from HD. Fits a 24mm socket, which is convenient as that's the socket you should already have for drain/fill bolts on diff/transfer/tranny.

    Boom:
    [​IMG]

    Also, in grabbing various parts of the steering assembly, I noticed slight play here (above the steering rack, grabbing onto that intersection thing with all the bolts on it):
    [​IMG]

    Anybody have any suggestions on what could be causing that?

    Pretty sure my outer tie rods are fine (yanking on them/pry bar no movement). I checked the torque of the innie rack guide bolt and it's at spec of 18ft/lbs...
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
  10. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    Well, today I:

    [​IMG]

    I thought I found my clunk:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I tack'd it (first time using a welder, actually came out pretty damn good), and now there's no play from the u-joint at the firewall to the wheel. BUT there still is some, somewhere from that u joint to the out tie rods. More testing tomorrow :frusty:

    Thread for anyone looking to fix their steering slop if it's from slip-joint:
    http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161689&highlight=steering+rattle
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014
  11. BDN

    BDN "old Brett", Tour Guide

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    I've been following to see what you come up with, that splined joint below the rag joint in your bottom pic was where all of my play came from. I had to replace the bolt that clamps the assembly to the splines, play all gone. Made a clicking noise too before I replaced the bolt.
     
  12. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    Awesome. Learn something new every day. Didn't know that was called a "rag joint." You're referring to the bolt between the rag joint and u joint then? Didn't realize that was splined... Interesting.

    Also, :jellydance: of that addicted hybrid.
     
  13. BDN

    BDN "old Brett", Tour Guide

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    You mentioned u-joint and made me question my answer, lol, so I went and snapped a quick pic.
    It's the horizontal bolt at the bottom. You can just see the splines.
    [​IMG]

    There is another horizontal bolt at the upper end where it attaches to the sector(?) shaft, that's splined too and might need a turn.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014
  14. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    Yes that is the bolt I thought you were referring to. I mistakingly thought there was a u joint below that :eek:

    Very much appreciate your help. Originally that was one of the places I noticed play. Will check around there tomorrow. +1 for the help / taking the picture!
     
  15. Lumpskie

    Lumpskie Independent Thinker

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    Thanks for posting up on your solution, Timmy. I don't have a clunk, but my steering could be tighter. I think I'll check that joint on my rig.
     
  16. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    It's worth looking into. Drove on the highway today and the steering is noticeably tighter. It takes 10s to see if it's an issue for you - grab the steering shaft below the dash with one hand, and move the wheel back and forth with your other hand. If there is any play, chances are it's in the slip-joint.

    I still have some rotational play above the steering rack, but I'm not sure if that's supposed to be there. I torqued everything to spec today, but didn't have a lot of time to really mess around with it. Don't know too much about steering stuff... leaning more and more daily!

    I've also got some play in the u joint that comes out of the transfer case, so I'm thinking that actually may be the source of the clunk, as it "feels" like it's under the seat. But you never know what's resonating off the frame... More testing!
     
  17. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    Thinking about redoing my setup in the rear.... Pretty happy with how it is now for sleeping, but the storage situation has turned out to not be as ideal. Namely, bins and my toolbox jumping around when wheeling. And I don't really like that it ends up pressed against the side glass (hence the piece of cardboard). Thinking about raising up the platform ~4-5" so I can fit the toolbox and other fullsize bins below the platform. This will reduce the headroom, but as it currently is I can't sit up all the ways anyways (I'm a little over 6' and it's like 1" too short). The way it's designed now, it's entirely modular so the center piece can slide out and go where those bins are under-neath. So, when it's just me I have more headroom. But obviously can't do that with two people in the back. Been doing a lot of scheming and may have figured out a way to make it all work. Will involve getting rid of the topper and using my industrial sewing machine :spy:

    One of our cats seems to approve of how it is now though:
    [​IMG]
     
  18. YotaOverAll

    YotaOverAll Run it

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    Custom soft topper?
     
  19. Pliny

    Pliny [OP] Offline

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    Maybe :spy: :spy: :spy:

    I've got two design ideas that I'm working out. It will be different than any soft-topper I've ever seen. And I think accomplish everything I want (better storage solution and headroom when sleeping in the back).
     
  20. YotaOverAll

    YotaOverAll Run it

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    Would be cool to have something low for driving that you could raise when parked of some sorts
     
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