Plug and Play powered sub replacement option for 2gen?

Is there a relatively easy powered sub plug and play replacement for the 2gen access cab tacomas?

I pulled out the weird light up box thing between the seats to make room for my dog platform.

Is there something easy that can be wired with the existing harness that you all know of?

Thanks!

Patrick

 

Nope.

 

Shucks.

I'd like to add some kind of sub using the stock head unit. Possible?

Or should I just head to the shop?

Thanks,

Patrick

 

It depends if your setup uses the powered JBL sub or not. If it does there is no easy plug and ply method around those setups. If you have a standard radio, some simple line out converters from the stock unit will be able to let you run a sub, either way, neither method is really plug and play.

 

Cool. I'm non JBL. I did the front door speaker upgrade hoping it would compensate for the removal of the sub, but it's still lacking.

And those headliner speakers are just maddening.

I may just throw in the towel and go full replacement.

 

Yeah you can add a sub to the stock head unit. Nothing will be plug and play, but that doesn’t make it difficult. The kicker hideaway has been a popular option on the forum for those just looking for a little extra kick. It’s more than the stock sub on your back wall was, but not as much as a full size 10” in a box with a separate amp. All depends on the sound you want and the money you want to throw at it

 

Cool, thank you. This may be the best route.

I just want good clean sound, nothing super audiophile level. As far as $ for this project I guess I'd like to spend around 500? Anything more than that I'd probably just sink a few k into a full replacement system.

 

$500 will get you pretty far for a small sub.

Set aside $50 for good power wire and RCA cables.
$15 for a decent hi-lo converter (although depending on the amp you get, you may not need this)

The rest will all depend on how much room you have. I am a fan of pre-built loaded enclosures. The Kicker CompRT line is nice for the money. I'm running the 12" but I install the 10" and 8" a lot and love them. The 10" is running $172 right now. That leaves you $263 for an amp, which is more than enough for a good amp.

Or if you need the space, go for the 8" or a different box. The CompRT subs are great for shallow boxes.

 

Hey, thanks so much for the info! This will be my weekend project.

 

Ok! I'm pretty stoked. I went with the 8" kicker compRT and the kicker cxa300.1. I've built some boxes with varying degrees of success in the past so I'll be building one to fit under the dog platform, behind the passenger seat and locate the amp under the passenger seat.

Thanks for the help! We will see how this turns out.

 

8awg wiring kit and you're all set. Make sure it's 100% OFC. Kicker 09DPK8 on Amazon works well. KnuKonceptz is decent as well. Stay away from Boss/Pyle/Dual etc. If the kit you like has RCA cables, thats fine. But you wont need them so don't specifically look for kits with them.

That amp can handle high level in so no need for a LOC. I would highly recommend tapping off the front speakers and not the rears in our trucks.

 

Dude, thank you.

 

Actually, is all the wiring still there from the original sub on the back wall?

 

Yep. All I did was disconnect it and remove it. All original wiring is still intact.

 

Then you're life just got a lot easier
This harness will give you access to audio signals and remote turn on wire

REM - Grey
Left - Black +, Yellow -
Right - Red +, White -

 

So awesome. I love this forum. Got venmo? 10 bucks coming your way for a sixer.

 

I appreciate it but no way man! I do this stuff to help others out! I get paid for it at work and do it for free at home!

 

And working for Geek Squad, taking money for giving audio advice probably violates some non-compete clause.

 

Gotcha. Well thanks a ton. I'll post pics of my progress (truck on fire) this weekend.

 

Mount the fuse holder, don't just leave it flopping around in the engine bay. But DON'T put the fuse in it until everything hooked up. You'll want to leave the battery side screwed on to prevent possible shorts.

get a bag of skinny 6" zip ties and use the hell out of them. Cut them with actual flush cutters and not scissors or something that leaves a tip. Nothing cuts skin worse than the pointy end of a zip tie.

Use actual fork terminals (properly sized) crimped on all of your wiring at the amp. Don't be that guy that crams bare wire and screws it down.

Go by your local Best Buy or audio shop and as if they have an RCA end or two you can have.