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Polk Audio Sound Help

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by mcampos0, Jan 29, 2010.

  1. Jan 29, 2010 at 10:56 PM
    #1
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Hey have a problem with my polk audio MM speakers.. I just installed them yesterday at a little shop here in town owned by one guy that does everything himself and when i turned them on I expected to be blown away because they cost about 300$ for both pairs and tweeters with crossovers and they sounded kinda weak and rattled. Stock speakers sounded just as good without the rattle. and when i asked hoping that they were installed wrong and that was the problem he said that it was because i need a amp(at least 300watt 4channel) to help power them because their going "power hungry". All I have is a pioneer avh-3100 touchscreen giving out 20x4 watts RMS(at best) and both the front 6x9 and back 6x5 Polk Audio MM speakers are rated at 125 RMS. I didnt use any tacotunes or any speaker adapters other than the ones that the speakers came with. I was wondering if the amp idea is right because i dont wanna spend another $200 if its not needed, or do i buy baffles from mr.marv or tacotunes or do i dynamat the 4 doors.. Help needed

    Plus he didnt put these on the speakers

    SANY0001 (2).jpg
     
  2. Jan 30, 2010 at 7:50 AM
    #2
    RTaylor

    RTaylor Active Member

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    Sorry but he is telling you the truth about the amp, I have never installed aftermarket speakers and them sound louder or better UNTIL i put a amp on them, thats when they shine. as far as the doors go i bet he just screwed you new speakers to the door what he needed to do or you can do yourself is cut some speaker rings out of 3/4 mdf. Dynamat is always a good idea even if you still have factory speakers.
     
  3. Jan 30, 2010 at 10:21 AM
    #3
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Thanks for the help so far.. So i should get speaker baffles because i do think that he did just screw the speakers to the door. I already set up the appointment for the dynamat for the 4 doors this tuesday.
     
  4. Jan 30, 2010 at 1:44 PM
    #4
    RTaylor

    RTaylor Active Member

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    the factory holes are too big for the aftermarket speakers to fit properly so i would at least do speaker rings.
     
  5. Jan 30, 2010 at 10:53 PM
    #5
    yosh2000

    yosh2000 Well-Known Member

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    you spend $300 on speakers and didnt realize that you needed an amp...:confused:!! of course you need an amp to drive those speakers!! maybe you should do a little more research and understand what your getting into before you go and blow $300 on speakers and expect them to sound great w/ only 20w!!
     
  6. Jan 31, 2010 at 1:44 AM
    #6
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Ha what do i needa do research for when i have the experts here on this fourm.. lol looks like its time to search for a amp
     
  7. Jan 31, 2010 at 11:08 PM
    #7
    derk

    derk Member

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    I don't want to start something here but I installed front and rear Polk MM 6.75 component speakers in my 2006 access cab. I drive them just with the head unit Pioneer D3, and it sounds great. Much better then the stock. I also bought a Premier 4 channel amp which I was going to install later. But in my opinion I did not have the sound problems you mentioned. Before you add an amp be sure to check if the polarity is correct. I used an MDF baffle and also plan on installing some RamMat.
     
  8. Feb 1, 2010 at 11:05 AM
    #8
    sirsaechao

    sirsaechao Well-Known Member

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    To much to list...see sig for more...
    Always power your components with an external amp. The HU amp is terrible...it may run cheap coax or stock paper cones but not components to the fullest.
     
  9. Feb 1, 2010 at 11:36 AM
    #9
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Glad to hear man, and i think my problem is the baffles because I messed with the eq setting on my HU and it sounds better but theirs still that pretty loud rattle and im starting to confuse it with blown speakers even though i know that cant be. Im currently in the process of buying baffles from my speakers and tweeters from mr.marv. And then dynamat after i buy the amp
     
  10. Feb 1, 2010 at 11:43 AM
    #10
    05offroad

    05offroad Well-Known Member

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    Im surprised the guy installing your speakers didn't give you a heads up about needing an amp...most car audio places will at least let you know that your speakers will require one before they sell them to you and especially before they put them in. But an amp will help with the volume. Check into the rattling. Tacotunes sells great stuff
     
  11. Feb 1, 2010 at 8:29 PM
    #11
    CoreyJ

    CoreyJ Well-Known Member

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    Your problem is the fact he didn't use the correct baffles to mount the speakers. That is the source of the rattle you hear. I bet you have almost no audible bass response either do you?

    Get some proper baffles on there, then listen to it. It will be a world of difference.

    If after that you find yourself cranking the volume up over 80% of the radio's max volume and craving more, then do an amp. But if you are happy with the volume at half to 75% of max, then no need for an amp.
     
  12. Feb 3, 2010 at 6:34 PM
    #12
    derk

    derk Member

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    It will always sound better with an amp, however this does not mean a good HU won't sound good to you. Some people just don't crank the music up high enough to merit the money. As I stated I was sure my components would not sound good without the amp, but during a week when I just installed the speakers I was very surprised how good it sounded minus the amp. Just my 2 cents
     
  13. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:56 PM
    #13
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Thanks everybody for the responds so far.. I just sent my payment to mr.marv for the baffles and am excited to see the difference they make, also this friday i will be buying a 1600w 4 channel power acoustik amplifier and installing it with the baffles next week..

    And no i have very little bass response, and the little i do have is overpowered with the rattle
     
  14. Mar 7, 2010 at 10:01 AM
    #14
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Ook so Im having another audio problem.. A small one but a annoying one. So heres the story. Im installing dynmat myself in my four doors and everything seemed well, the rattle i was talking about was gone and the system was sounding GREAT but when it was time to but the door panel back on it wouldnt line up correctly on the two opposite sides, the bottom and top line up perfect but the two sides have spaces as well as the door knob. The white clips that plug in the door from the panel go in fine on the bottom but on the sides they dont go in, I have to force them but they pop back out. I was wondering if i put to much dynamat or did i cover up a hole that wasnt supposed to be covered up. The door closes but the spaces between the panel and the door look ugly. Heres some pics for you do-it-yourselfers so you can see what i messed up. Not shown in the pic i have the baffle for the tweeters.

    SANY0085.jpg
    SANY0101.jpg
    SANY0110.jpg
    SANY0105.jpg
    SANY0106.jpg
    SANY0111.jpg
    SANY0104.jpg
    SANY0103.jpg
     
  15. Mar 7, 2010 at 10:57 AM
    #15
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    Sounds like you might have a bulge somewhere in the door. Does your crossover or speaker stick out too much?
     
  16. Mar 7, 2010 at 11:18 AM
    #16
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Im pretty sure my crossover doesnt touch, ive measured it and i still have about half a inch of room between the crossover and the door panel and as for the speaker I knew it was gonna stick out especially after adding the 1 inch thick speaker baffle but I shaved off a good inch and a half off the door panel as you can see in the picture of the door panel. Plus the bottom fits perfectly its the top left and right corner of the panel thats giving me problems. I already tried putting the panel on with out the tweeter baffle(becasue the baffle adds about a 3/4in) but i get the same problem on both sides so its not the crossover, speaker or tweeter but I know it is a bulge somewhere. Im thinking that it is the door knob cuz i put dynamat under it and now i have to force it to snap back into place but im still looking for the bulge elsewhere.
     
  17. Mar 7, 2010 at 11:40 AM
    #17
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    From what you just said about the top left and right corners I don't think you have the top of the door card seated along the top metal ridge of the door. Basically, you should start high up and slide it down onto the metal ridge and it will hook on. Then, once it hooks you just push all the white poppy things in.
     
  18. Mar 8, 2010 at 4:27 AM
    #18
    ENIGMA206

    ENIGMA206 Well-Known Member

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    I have the exact set up as you except with an Alpine HU and Kicker amp. I have the Polk MM 6x9s in the front with a Polk tweeter up top, Mr. Marv adapters and Dynamat on the doors. I do not have any clearance issues at all. The difference in our installs is that my crossovers are mounted on the back wall of the cab.
     
  19. Mar 9, 2010 at 1:37 PM
    #19
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 [OP] Today I Will!!!!

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    Just finished the dynamat project and wooowww the system sounds amazing... I am really impressed with the polk audio and dynamat combo..
    I thought that i was gonna have to buy a sub to get bass response but I believe this is good.. Since I saved about $250 my next project will be Black Procomp rims.. Thank everyone for the help..
     
  20. Mar 10, 2010 at 10:21 AM
    #20
    EGtaco

    EGtaco Well-Known Member

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    you dont really need an amp for those speakers. I got 2 pairs of polk MM 6 1/2's and they work fine off the deck. Sure they will handle an amp and the 6x9s could probably use a little more power but not required. I do have Mr Marv's baffles and that probably really helps the rattle.

    I do like the sound quality of the polk's though. The highs are great and I have a jl sub for the lows
     
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