Polyurethane Radiator Support Mounts (Cab Also)

I had no idea this thread gained so much traction! Wow!

To answer some questions here, a prybar is a good idea to fit between the sheetmetal and the frame to lift up the bushings and both remove them and install new ones. As for the bolts, if they don't align, you may have to resort to good old fashion coercion. I installed my drivers side one with a few stronger taps of a hammer. All of you with that problem can thank your big fat heavy battery for that.

BTW, if the bolt is not fitting through and you are having to coerce it, I got some bad news for you, the battery is causing the radiator support and wheel well sheetmetal to buckle. I have since relocated my battery to the rear of the frame and am very relieved now that I know all that weight is off the support and no longer causing havoc in the front. The sheetmetal on the front of these trucks are just way too soft and thin.

Some benefits to this mod... many. The front end bumper to fender clearance for those running stock bumpers still and offroading allows over HALF an inch to a full inch of movement or in this case, slop. This can be nasty for those who value the paint on your fenders and bumpers. My suggestion to those installing these bushings is to install them upside down much like @Airdog and myself. It offers better fender to bumper gap clearance (great for offroad armor bumpers) and a lot more surface area to resist flex as well as more bushing in between the rad support and the frame. Looking at it while installed it appears identical to a hockey puck. Of course it's not.

Stock rad support to frame bushings are absolute junk as previously mentioned, you could tear those things up just by starring at them and I also convict them of causing the multitude of problems the front end has including the infamous "Taco Lean," collapsing rad support and wheel well on the drivers side, and the eventual tearing of the rad support wings that you can get. The stock ones are just very sloppy and allow WAY too much movement, it's not okay.

Oh, and the stock ones squeak. A lot. The rubber dries out and rots from the inside, so you end up getting noise issues when you flex the truck. As my daily driver mine were so annoying, I'm glad they are gone.

 

That large washer looks like it would cause some noise.

I think I might buy two kits just so I can use the big bushings and the small washers.

 

Any difference?

$34 Energy Suspension 9.4102G Universal Mount

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN5F4Q

$28 Energy Suspension- 9.4101G UNIVERSAL MOUNT

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN9BZ0

 

Honestly, why even have that little washer up top, metal on metal. It also may be causing noise, not to mention future rust.

Why not put a bushing between the body and frame, then under the frame, bushing/washer/nut.

 

I think I figured out what was wrong on mine. I think the noise I was hearing was the bushing slipping because it was not seated properly. It was not a squeak but a thud or knock sound whenever doing anything off camber. The noise started the day after I swapped out the factory rubber.

Look how it was misaligned.


I fixed it.


I used a hi lift jack from slider, jacked the wheel 1" off the ground, and undo the nut and the joint comes right apart, no prybar required for swapping bushings

 

I was thinking the same thing when I first saw the ES ones, but I did note that the Toyota one had an integrated washer built in.

I dunno...

 

I'm thinking of installing it like Roberto's, but just leave out the big washer. It also won't give me as much "lift".

 

Yeah the big washer looks like it was contacting the frame...

I say go for it.

 

Are you guys taking off the front bumper to do this swap?

 

No. Work from below, plenty of room.

 

Okay, thought so but was not sure with the photos I seen. Guess guys are just shoving the camera up in there. Thanks.

 

Access is easy with plate bumper.

 

I was wondering about replacing those bushings a few weeks ago and completely forgot. Thanks for reminding me! Just ordered a set...

 

I keep seeing all the updates and want to go put mine in, but I'm gonna wait on the new frame.

 

Yes. The part numbers are different. Get the ones on the second link.

$28 Energy Suspension- 9.4101G UNIVERSAL MOUNT

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN9BZ0

Energy Suspension part number:
9.4101G

 

Thank you sir much appreciated.

 

Well I'm sold, I'll be ordering them tomorrow.

 

Also, if any of you want red instead of black, just replace "G" in the part number with "R".

 

Yeah that large washer is pretty darn thick. As long as you retain the lower washer as it gives the fastening nut at the bottom a hard solid surface to clamp on you will be good to go.

 

I appreciate "heads up" like this. It's always better to learn from someone else's misfortune and prevent the same thing

That said, I checked out mine and they look fine to me. I also don't see any tearing or distortion in the surrounding sheet metal.

Do you think toyota improved something for my '12 or is this something I still need to fix?