Polyurethane Radiator Support Mounts (Cab Also)

thanks man!! ordering now, so your saying by lifting on the slider till the wheel is 1" off the ground its very easy to get the upper bushing out and the big on in its place?

 

Yes for getting the old bushing out, But there is more you need to do to get the new bigger one in. Lifting by slider helps unload the joint and does create a lot of space, but the bigger bushing needs even more clearance to go in. Airdog and others used a piece of 4x4 wood and floor jack to push up on the cab sheet metal to gain clearance. I had to do this too but I didn't have a 4x4 block of wood, so I used a 24" breaker bar as a push rod, floor jack, and a small flat block of wood between the cab sheet metal and breaker bar. It worked great!

It's a 30 minute job and it's a noticeable improvement.

 

Good stuff. Needed for my 110k truck.

 

Anyone experience any squeaking with these bushings yet?

 

@Torspd had had them in his truck the longest AFAIK, and he said in this thread, that his are all quiet. Per his build thread he did and apply a light coat of grease on his... I did the same to mine, used Super Lube PTFE bushing safe synthetic grease.

 

Same here, no squeak.

 

subd cuz my wallet is beyond empty....need to log off for awhile lol

 

I would of had mine installed already but ups left them at their facility, so hopefully Monday!

 

I didn't lube shit. You really don't need to if installed properly. I have never dealt with squeaks on poly bushings before unless it is installed incorrectly.

 

If you get the black bushings, they are impregnated with graphite. To help prevent squeaking.

 

Is that a serious post or are you being sarcastic? Lol. I can't tell!

 

It's true, even Energy Suspension has said the black is superior, it's just some people want red. They used to make yellow and blue years ago too.

The black and red are the same durometer, so with the graphite in the black bushings there's really no reason to get the red.

I don't understand why All-Pro, Total Chaos, and others even put the red bushings in their parts. Maybe they don't know.

 

With a radiator support and cab mount though, there shouldn't be any movement, so I'd think there wouldn't be much advantage in those locations.

 

I wonder if the nature of the using the color alone requires adding graphite into the mix in order to make it black. Just thinking out loud about it.

I've always preferred black poly over red or yellow and anything else. It's just more inconspicuous that way.

 

Could be.

 

Black does have the graphite.
The poly lube does work ok for stoping squeaks,but the best for poly bushings against metal is a very thin coat of anti seize. Works wonders.
I really like Energy Suspension's products. I bugged them for a year to develop a master kit for 2nd gen tacos.
I just had a new frame put on and had the dealer install the ES body mounts bushings.
Along with the new LCAs and bushings,it has never ridden so tight.
Great thread by the way.
I only have one concern. The thickness of the thick top bushing. Is it thicker than stock?
What are your thoughts on a thicker than stock poly bushing (that gives less) on top,putting more stress on the already weak sheet metal supporting the radiator?

 

Yeah, my cab mounts for sure flex, I can hear the cab move/creak when goin over twist bumps.

But I'm replacing those later, doin the radiator for now.

 

Ditto. My rock sliders (welded to frame) have been scored by the pinch weld from extreme flex. So I know the cab is a movin. Not sure about any noise coming from them though.

That's much harder to diagnose. My truck had a bad creaking sound right off the factory lot while off roading and opening door after driving. Annoying as F***. I made Toyota fix it. Turns out it was the sheet metal in the pinch weld rubbing. Sprayed penetrating oil into the pinch weld and all noise stopped.

 

Much thicker over stock, which is not a bad thing. My take on it is this. The stockers are sloppy. They allow anywhere from a half inch to an inch of movement while offroading. In pothole ridden cities, dirt roads, country roads, the same issue will apply regardless. I feel that the bushings are a little undersized in the first place so these energy ones will apply more surface area to hold in place the support better.

About the weak support. The issue is severely compounded by an already beast heavy 50lb+ battery. Compile this with sloppy bushings that allow bounce and that is a recipe for disaster with a soda can thin sheetmetal radiator support. That is why at this juncture I am a huge advocate of battery relocation to the frame where the metal is much more stout.

I feel for the people who do AGM odyssey, Optima, or similar dual battery setups in the front who also like to offroad. Poor bastards never stood a chance. By the time they realize what's going on it's already too late and the damage has been done.

 

What damage does the battery do? If.you're not jumping your truck, should be fine, right?