ponethousand's build

I normally try to run .025 because it's the most universal for what I weld on a regular basis, but I got a hookup on a 30lb spool of .030 for free, so I'm stuck using that unless I'm welding something really thin, then I'll grab a small 2lb spool of .025 .... I keep a medium sized bottle of Ar/CO2 for steel, and a little bottle of straight Argon for doing stainless, but I don't mess with the stainless a whole lot.

You do some nice work BTW.

Where can you get a small rod oven ? I've seen bigger ones, but I barely use mine, so I can't justify spending much... I've heard a small refrigerator with a regular lightbulb kept on work well also for keeping moisture out of your rods, the poor man's setup.

 

this holds 10lbs http://store.cyberweld.com/phrodov10lbd.html

 

If you do not get the ubolt flip, you will need new ubolts for the expos...i say go for it, they are just about the same price as new ubolts.

 

Just put in the order linwood. Burry is going to help with the shock relocation. Did you change your own gear oil?

 

Don't get your hopes up too high with the new gears. It's going to feel better on the road for sure, but it's not going to feel like a crawler. Anyone that has driven with a real crawler will know that it's a whole other level of gearing with a crawler.

Either way, I'm sure you'll like the new gears.

 

Expectation not to high

 

Shit...with 4.56 gears in 4 low in 1st gear it is like 90:1....that is pretty damn close to me....

 

Lol.

 

41.25:1

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

That calculator fails to take into account that a torque converter at full stall multiplies tranny output about double, essentially acting as another 2:1 reduction (give or take). It assumes the tranny is operating with the torque converter locked up, which it isn't most of the time on the trail.

See here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter#Efficiency_and_torque_multiplication

It's variable depending on how close to stall you are, but the slower an auto goes, the closer it is to stall.

Thus, assume say 2.0 reduction on average. Plug in 2.0 as the underdrive on your same gear calculator up there and it'll spit out 82.5:1 in 1st gear, 4Lo, with 4.56 gears and 285 tires. If you're a bit closer to stall and getting 2.2 reduction out of the Tq converter, then you get 90:1.

The main disadvantage is your crawl ratio isn't a set ratio with an auto.

This is why auto guys with crawlboxes (Chad) can't stop their trucks in compound low unless they put 'em in neutral. The crawlbox gets DOUBLE input from everything in front of it, then multiplies that, and the brakes can't handle it.

Gearing an auto won't give you the same control as a crawler, but for the shit you can actually do in these trucks, it won't matter. It's not like they're competition rock crawling.


Edit: IMO the big advantage of crawlboxes in manny tranny Tacos is being able to hill start without melting your clutch and having much more control. They're basically required equipment.

The downside of near-stall operation (i.e. crawling) with an Auto tranny is it produces a lot of heat. A LOT of heat. For this reason, I drain/fill the trans pan every year to help keep the fluid fresh. There's no way in hell with all the crawling this truck does that I'd go Toyota's 100,000mi or whatever they recommend without servicing the trans lube. I'd be shelling out for a trans rebuild at 75k.

 

Totally agree on the benefits of a crawler in a manual trans truck. I had 4.88 gears in my '93 SAS pickup then added a Marlin dual-ultimate crawler (230:1). Made it a completely different truck.

With an auto trans the 4.88 gears will be most noticeable on the road. But the auto trans and torque converter make the truck easy to crawl with on the trail even with stock gears.

92:1 isn't exactly accurate. 4.88s put you at 41.25:1 but the torque converter is "doubling-down" so it feels like lower gearing.

 

hmmm i dunno what you are talking about in that situation

 

Thank you for all the information. I'm not even going to try an act like i know anything on these subjects. All i know is that i want a functional truck to drive and have fun in. I know i'm not a rock crawler but it sure looks fun tackling objects in some of the trail riding we do. With that said i am learning a lot from all of you. I am humble and know when to ask. It is comforting to know that i will never call the stealership and get ripped off. I will ask you guys all the questions first.

 

Where did you get your toyos? Having some second thoughts on tires

 

Pungo off-road in virginia beach. They are a direct dealer for toyo. Pretty good deal on 305/70/16

 

I have an idea for a temporary strengthening bracket to allow a roller fairlead to work. I'm making a rough sketch of it and posting it my build thread, let me know what you think.

 

Another order came in when I was out of town. BAMF LCA skid and Light bracket for behind the grill came in as well as my regulator for my Co2 Setup. If only the Allpro order would come in before the Flagpole meet on the 16th...