Pop and Lock for 2016+ Tacoma

Where did you tap in at?

 

I think coming up through the grommet in the floor is far easier. On the passenger side, it's easy to route the cable and it easily fits with the other cables in the plastic holder think underneath the sill cover.

Unless you need to tap into the driver's side door if you want it to unlock with just the drivers door.

Yeah...which wires did you use? These are the ones I used: https://youtu.be/KyzdTEV_sBI?t=508

 

Your video was the one I got the idea from. I tried that same wiring set up. I like running it through the passenger side in the grommet as well turns out really clean. I'm going to double check my connections and see if some thing happened, I may just have a bad part.

 

Make sure it isn't just reversed - i.e. you hit lock but it actually unlocks so you think it's not working. In that case you just swap bullet connectors. I had to swap mine, even following that video.

Also make sure your wire taps are secure and the metal piece was pushed completely flush with the plastic.

 

It was a crappie connector. Works great now but mine is reverse of yours.(the wiring I mean)

 

Hey guys so I've had my poplock installed on my taco for about 3 weeks now and everything was working perfectly fine once I figured out the wiring. However I have run into some issues. My power lock fuse keeps blowing if I double hit the unlock buttons on either the door or the key fob. After changing out the fuse several times my key fob and keyless entry no longer work, but the power locks work when I'm inside the truck using the dor buttons. Seeing that no one else has had an issue like this I'm not sure if anyone might have a solution. The only thing I can think of is that the poplock wires are back feeding power into the factory harness causing a short blowing the fuse. If that's the case then installing diodes would rectify the issue. Please let me know if anyone has any other ideas or solutions!

-Thanks

 

Hmm, not sure how they could back feed power, as it's just whatever power coming in that powers the actuator. Perhaps a short in the wires?

 

Sounds more like you may have the wiring incorrect. If you mix up the lock/unlock signal wire from the front door with the lock/unlock signal wire from the rear/passenger door I think you would get the situation you describe. IE works when just press button once, (as only one circuit is active) but would short when you press button twice (as both circuits are active).

 

The polarity of the two wires are reversed between lock and unlock signal. So it could easily `back feed power` if you cross the circuits, or try to ground either circuit.

 

But if it was reversed, the actuator wouldn't work correctly. He said it was fine for a while.

 

If circuits were crossed, (and just working this out in my head, need to draw it out on paper to confirm) I think you would be in the situation where one button press would work and 2 presses would short. But, as you mentioned, it would have always been like this.

 

I'll have to take a look tonight when I'm off work, but yes it worked perfectly fine for 3 weeks locked when I pressed lock and unlocked when I pressed unlocked never had the issue of the opposite happening when you lock/unlock. Again everything is currently working with the lock unlock buttons in the truck but the fob and the keyless door handle entry do not. Wondering if the fob needs to be reprogrammed because the fuse blew. Not sure

 

Nah mine were reversed, just didn't work and swapped wires on pop and lock side.

 

Not sure about keyless entry. Where did you route the pop and lock wires? Maybe too close to exhaust and they melted and shorted?

 

I mean crossed circuits. eg one wire from the drivers door circuit and one wire from the passenger circuit, not reversed wires on the same circuit.

 

Oh I got you now, but yeah it wouldn't have worked originally.

 

I routed the wires along the frame zip tied to the factory harness then followed the camera wire into the tailgate. I wired them into the passenger side harness. Just to clarify again. Everything worked perfectly fine until Monday night. After I drove home from work I was walking away from my truck aND pressed lock with my fob and nothing happened then went inside to lock with the door lock switch and nothing happend after replacing the fuse all the power locks work including my tailgate except now the fob and keyless entry do not work. Wondering if I need to reprogram the fob because the fuse was blown. I'm not sure... may have to take to dealership if it doesn't say how to reprogram in the manuel.

 

Maybe you knicked a wire when you did the install and now it is shorting out somewhere.

 

Okay so after looking over the Poplock wiring there are no knicks or any abrasions on the wire insulation. I did however unplug the Poplock at the bullet connectors to see if my fob would work without it plugged in. It did not. Also after unplugging the wiring for the tailgate actuator i had pressed the passenger door lock/unlock button and it popped the fuse. Replaced the fuse and tried again and it popped it again. So im not sure what is causing the short because it does unlock and lock the tailgate from the driver door, but when i use the switch on the passenger door it blows the fuse... i have wired it into the exact same spot on the passenger side plug that everyone else on this forum has, but seem to be the only one with this issue. Don't know what is causing the fuse to blow but its something with the wiring on the passenger side to cause it to short.

 

Check your connectors. They may be loose and causing a arc which is blowing the fuse. From what I understand from other people who have posted that they bought the pop'n'lock that the connectors aren't very good.