Pop and Lock PL8521 Power Tailgate Install (2012 Tacoma)

Looking to replace my sponge I originally installed with mine (before they came with foam) with something better.
Any specific suggestions?

 

Left mine with the original and seems fine if you want you can always go get a car wash sponge and cut it. I have my pop and lock working off my aux on my key fob so I can unlock and lock when I need to not when the door unlocks and locks

 

Any closed cell foam. Something that does not hold water.

 

Would anyone happen to know what voltage we should have coming through the

$107 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 unit harness at the tailgate and when we are splicing it in to the B Pillar (passenger side door lock wiring)? Two years in a row (while camping in May both times) my PL8521 stopped working and after breaking in through the tonneau and pulling everything apart the first time, I put it down to poor connections somewhere and replaced the supplied splicing connectors with something better. When it happened again, I checked again and after leaving it unplugged for a week then reconnecting it now works again?

I seem to be getting a spike of around 8-9 V when activating the door locks, both when putting the multi-meter on the tailgate end of the harness and at the B-pillar splicing. I've tried it with the engine running and not running and it doesn't seem to make much difference. Should this voltage be higher and if so, does it sound like my wiring job is the problem?

Appreciate any advice. Thanks, Jason

 

You should be getting 10 ~ 14v DC.

 

Thank you.

 

Any clue why that is happening to your setup? Seems like you tapped into the right line though.

 

Just want to say thanks to the OP who made the install predictable. It's true that the squeeze connectors suck balls. I had to go once over stripping the wire manually using pliers as I wasn't getting connectivity. Save the headache and get a pack of tie wraps and better connectors before you begin. It's blue to blue/black wire in case you are wondering; otherwise reverse at the other end. Cheers.

 

I have just finished reading through all of the posts over the past few days and it hasn't been brought up anywhere else, so I'll ask now. I just received my

$107 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 from Amazon. I also recently got a sweet deal on a used Leer 700 fiberglass tonneau cover (in the correct color too!) that came with the keyless actuator system.
Question: can I just run both actuators to the same power/trigger source? Will there be any issues with current restrictions or wire gauge or fuse capacities?

I was just going to go to the passenger side kick panel as many have described, but the Leer's wires come out of the carpet liner on the driver side. I could run them separately but would prefer to avoid that.

Also, I figured while I was doing all of this, I should run a line for some LED lighting in the bed to help see its contents. I'd like for this to always have power and not just with the ignition on. Any ideas on the source other than the battery?

Anyway, I'm trying to knock all of this out at once if I'm already going to be crawling around under there lol.

Thanks for all of the info already guys! You inspired me to join and this is my 1st post In the past I've been on s10 forum and Dodge forum for past trucks, but you all already know this Taco is nicer than all that have come before

-Rantz

 

Thank you to all of you for your input into this project

It took me some time but I did it.

For my 2008 DC Sport I tapped into the blue /pink to green and blue / black to the blue.

It seemed slow to work at first and then I started the engine turned it off and then it worked.

Reversing the wires made it unlock and lock with or not with the car doors

Thanks again

 

Finally installed the Pop N Lock

$107 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 power tailgate lock today. I spent way too much time with the installation as I wanted to run the wires a certain way but since I couldn't get the pins out of one of the connectors I had to modify my plans. The install turned out looking clean and I added an emergency release in case of failure in the locked position.

Here is a picture of the installation:



And here is a link to more details in a thread I started about the emergency release.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-with-emergency-release.445898/#post-13015374

 

Thanks to everyone here for this thread. I picked up a Pop & Lock on a black Friday sale 50% off. I did lots of reading on the tips tricks and issues with this unit and now I feel I did a good installation hopefully without any problems down the road.

First I started in reverse wiring from the inside back. I popped out the grommet and actually drilled a small hole in it instead of slicing it allowing it to self seal around the wire.
Second good top was use the existing camera wire holes for your short harnes.

Third. I had to add a block to stop the pop and lock from being able to be moved by pulling the handle really hard.

Fourth. I put some thread locker on the 10mm bolt.

And fifth I added the failsafe.

I am extremely happy with this set up as I carry tools In my truck and am often very worried about them. And I travel on the ferry quite often leaving valuables in the box..

Thanks agan for everyone's input and help.

Eric

 

I'll be doing this in the future, thanks for posting.

 

Sorry if this is a repost but can anyone tell me what they did to make this thing quieter? It is extremely loud!. Way louder then the doors

 

Mine should be delivered today, thanks for the write up!

I ordered mine from etrailer, they have a decent video on the product page that helped clarify further if anyone is about to do this. (link below)

They have you go all the way to the firewall and back through to rear passenger door wiring. Ill probably do as OP has done - Less wiring to zip tie!

https://www.etrailer.com/Locks/Pop-and-Lock/PAL8521.html

 

Got my unit installed last night and the lock itself is working fine, however the tailgate handle itself is now binding somewhat. I have tried adjusting the lock with the same result. Anyone else have this problem?

 

I had that problem, loosen the 10mm bolt that attaches the pop n lock.

 

Just followed the instructions on this page worked great. The lock took about 10 min (no exageration) to install. The automatic part another 2 min and the wiring about 30 min. Im not sure what you all are referencing that its loud mine is not loud at all. Maybe the foam they attach to it? Doesnt feel cheap either. Will see how long it lasts. So for 2015 tacoma 4dr you will find the wires under the passenger side door floorboard plastic piece not in the b pillar by seatbelt attachment. There is a bundle of anout 15-20 wires and once you remove the plastic there easy to tap into it got it first try. Same color wires thats on this write-up

 

awesome write up. just received my hardware from Amazon. This will be my weekend project plus wiring my canopy 3rd break light and 12v dome light.

 

Are there different models to choose from for the 2014 Tacomas with the backup camera?