Pop noise after level kit

Installed a headstrong .5 block in the front of my MY16 TRDOR and made sure I torqued everything back to spec. Removed upper balljoint, swaybar link, loosened the lower control arm bolts. Put the kit in and torqued everything with a tranny jack at ride height. Aligned it back to specs. Now I don't know if this noise was there before I did the level but I'm paranoid about it. Happens when hitting a dip like pulling out into the street from a parking lot. Sounds like a little pop like something is moving around. Anyone with stock suspension have a similar noise? Thanks

 

A lot of the 4th generation 4Runners developed that problem. It was the sway bar bushings. Try removing the sway bar and driving it that way for a few days. If the problem goes away, apply some rubber safe grease to the sway bar bushings and reinstall.

 

my drivers side OME 881 coil makes a "pop/click" sound whenever I hit a dip in the road and the weight of the truck causes it to compress. Been doing it for months and never had any issues with it, other than it being kind of annoying. Only explanation I've really gotten is 'that just happens when you lift your truck'.

 

So I really have just let this go, until today when I was super slow at work. I was checking things out on the lift and found that the sway bar is actually hitting the bottom of the coil just barely. I was thinking about getting a relocate from toytec but I think I may just take it off completely and see what happens. Has anyone else had this happen? Would setting the caster +or- help? Just don't understand why a 1/2 inch level would make it just close enough to hit?

 

I have been having having this same issue for years. I just started researching replacing my shocks and possibly coils because I thought they may be causing part of the problem. Surely there is a solution for this. Following. If I find something I will let you know.

 

Not quite sure what you are saying here. Since I don't, I'll just comment that........

Suspension bits at movable points should be torqued with the vehicle in static compression position, not in some from of droop, either partial or otherwise.

Seen many home wrenches fully torque with a ride up on jackstands in full droop and ultimately rip out the rubber bushings of various fittings. Yes, things are harder to access to torque with the vehicle resting on all 4 wheels, but it's how it needs to be done.

 

The other way to do it is roll the truck up on ramps to get lower clearance. Add some jack stands under there too below the frame rails for safety since you'll be hanging 135/139 ft lbs on the inner LCA bolts to torque.
Clearwaterbill is correct. Everything needs to be preloaded and torqued to spec.

 

I found this on another post. Will this eliminate the noise? http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/SBR-129--Front-Sway-Bar-Relocate-Kit_p_12.html

 

Yeah that's basically what I did. I jacked up the lower control arm until

 

Idk what happened ^. So I had the truck on a lift. I put tranny jacks under the lower control arms and jacked them up until it started to lift the truck off the rack. So I'm pretty close to where they should have been torqued to. I found out that the noise is actually the front sway bar making contact just barely on the lower part of the spring. I ordered the icon sway bar relocate and will post back when I get it in there and know if that fixes it.