1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

popping and clunking noise coming from front end

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by houndsmen, Jul 18, 2011.

  1. Jul 18, 2011 at 7:58 PM
    #1
    houndsmen

    houndsmen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2009
    Member:
    #22461
    Messages:
    89
    Gender:
    Male
    I have a 2001 tacoma double cab 4-wheel. The other day I came back from hunting and I went to town, well when I came to a stop light I hit the brakes and a popping noise came from the front end. It was a loud POP so I went to a parking and tried it again it did the same pop/clunk noise. Now every time I put my truck in reverse it pops or when I hit my brakes. I thought it was my brakes or cv axles cuz they were torn. But I replaced the axles brakes rotors and rack and pinion bushings. As I changed all that i checked and everything was tight. Does anyone have a clue what it could be?
     
  2. Jul 18, 2011 at 10:36 PM
    #2
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Member:
    #7448
    Messages:
    1,347
    Gender:
    Male
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tacoma SR5 4X
    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
  3. Jul 19, 2011 at 11:48 AM
    #3
    houndsmen

    houndsmen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2009
    Member:
    #22461
    Messages:
    89
    Gender:
    Male
    Its not the steering column, I know that one has movement up and down…. Its when I come to a complete stop when I pops not only once, but twice…. And when going in reverse and coming to a complete stop it will pop once or twice. Do you guys think it could be the end links? Ball joints????
     
  4. Jul 19, 2011 at 1:38 PM
    #4
    JBear

    JBear Spiral Out... Keep Going!

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2010
    Member:
    #42285
    Messages:
    125
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Orange County, CA
    Vehicle:
    2003 Extra Cab 5 spd 4x4 TRD Off-Road
    2" suspension lift with King Coilovers up front. Standard Bilsteins on rear with a Fabtech 1.5" AAL. Leer 100XL Shell.
    I would have said a CV... but you changed that, so.... huh =/
     
  5. Jul 19, 2011 at 2:02 PM
    #5
    houndsmen

    houndsmen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2009
    Member:
    #22461
    Messages:
    89
    Gender:
    Male
    See and I thought it was my cv axles so I replaced them?... Would ball joints pop like that???
     
  6. Jul 19, 2011 at 5:24 PM
    #6
    pairodice

    pairodice Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2009
    Member:
    #19456
    Messages:
    275
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jay
    SF NM
    Vehicle:
    03 DCSB
    magnaflow cat back exhaust, K&N filter, gray wire, deck plate, ome 883's, ome dakar leafs, bilstien 5100's, blacked out grille, AVS bug shield & window vents, arb bull bar, hella 5in lights, mile marker 8k winch, debadged tailgate, energy steering rack bushings, custom rear bumper w/ hidden receiver, custom headache rack, ome greasable shackles, 4.88's w/solid spacer, SS extended brake line
    Ive been tryin to pin point a similar problem for a few weeks and i finially found a bad lower control arm bushing. I didnt know it was bad til i took it apart though. i used a pry bar to move them to look for excess play but didnt find any. the other problem i found was the cam adjusters were siezed in the bushings. i am still working on getting them out. I am replacing all the control arm bushings with a kit from energy. the uppers are simple enough but the lowers need the rack to be unbolted for clearance
     
  7. Jul 20, 2011 at 3:33 PM
    #7
    houndsmen

    houndsmen [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2009
    Member:
    #22461
    Messages:
    89
    Gender:
    Male
    I checked mine and they are bad as well!!! The passenger side is the one that is popping... What is the cheapest you found those bushings for? And is it hard to replace them?
     
  8. Jul 20, 2011 at 6:46 PM
    #8
    pairodice

    pairodice Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2009
    Member:
    #19456
    Messages:
    275
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jay
    SF NM
    Vehicle:
    03 DCSB
    magnaflow cat back exhaust, K&N filter, gray wire, deck plate, ome 883's, ome dakar leafs, bilstien 5100's, blacked out grille, AVS bug shield & window vents, arb bull bar, hella 5in lights, mile marker 8k winch, debadged tailgate, energy steering rack bushings, custom rear bumper w/ hidden receiver, custom headache rack, ome greasable shackles, 4.88's w/solid spacer, SS extended brake line
    Do Not Buy Energy Suspension Bushings. I got a set the fit very poorly. I ended up getting some from orielys for 35.00 per side oem style. went to beaver toyota they wanted 68.00 each x4 and they would take a week to order. they arent 2 bad if ur cam adjusters are not seized, and u will need a press to remove the old ones. my guess would be 4-8hrs start to finish if u have parts. about 120.00 in parts plus 20.00 in sawzall blades to cut the arms off. must remove swaybar, cv shaft, spindle, brake rotor, remove all bolts from rack to get clearance 2 remove rear aarm bolts. good luck
     
To Top