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POR 15 is it that good?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Hunter500ky, Dec 17, 2010.

  1. Dec 17, 2010 at 6:18 PM
    #1
    Hunter500ky

    Hunter500ky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Anyone used it?

    I have some surface rust on my taco on the frame and rear axle, Im planning on under coating it with something this spring (to cold now and no time to do it).

    I got all the prep stuff and what not in the cart (to get a final price) it was 80ish but that was for only a quart of the POR 15 but a gallon of the marine cleaner stuff and the prep ready.


    Also if someone has used it and likes it, how much POR 15 did it take to do the frame? Im guessing more then a quart I know I cant get ALL the frame but some would be nice lol
     
  2. Dec 17, 2010 at 6:30 PM
    #2
    85GT 79FJ40

    85GT 79FJ40 Well-Known Member

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    I haven't used POR 15 specifically but I did use rust bullet blackshell on the 05 I just sold a few weeks ago. After a few New England winters the frame on it was an absolute mess. It was actually flaking worse than both the frame on my 200k mile 10 year old 4Runner and my 200k mile 89 toyota truck. To prep for the rust bullet I used a cupped wheel on my 4" grinder and spent about 6 hours under the truck grinding all the loose rust off. Then I brushed it on. After a few more winters the frame hadn't gotten any worse. The 05 double cab I just bought was from New England too but apparently it spent a few winters in Florida so the frame was in pretty good shape. On this one I used 2 spray cans of eastwood's rust encapsulator and got every bit of the frame I could get to. POR15 is sensitive to UV light and can only be topcoated (at least the last time I checked) with their products. Both the rust bullet blackshell and the Eastwood rust encapsulator products don't require topcoating. Neither does POR15 but when I bought my FJ40 the previous owner had coated it with POR15 and the frame started looking almost milky. I sandblasted it all off when I did the frame-off and used the Eastwood rust encapsulator and their chassis black paint over it. It still looks fantastic 10 years later but I don't drive that rig in the winter. Or hardly at all honestly.

    Oh and brushing it on my old 05 I used one quart of the rust bullet. That was one coat on the inside and outside of both framerails, which worked fine. The rear axle I painted with regular chassis black as it wasn't too bad.
     
  3. Dec 17, 2010 at 6:30 PM
    #3
    dirtfondler

    dirtfondler Well-Known Member

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    YES, it is that good. It is great to paint over welds with it before final paint too.

    3M makes a similar product too, but I have always stuck with POR15

    I havent used it on a frame so I dont know how much you'll need.
     
  4. Dec 17, 2010 at 8:45 PM
    #4
    Himiler

    Himiler Active Member

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    The por 15 is a good product only for areas that see no sunlight. The milky look was from sunshine, not designed for sunlight. The best use Ive seen is under a mower deck on a riding mower. To paint use the peeps marine clean,metal etch than brush it on. Yea I said brush. It self levels wonderfully. The marine clean is the best degreaser I've used mix it half with water and spray on your warm motor, drive it to the carwash and spray the bad and dried areas again and rinse. Use meguires on the hoses and plastics and it will be wonderful.
     
  5. Dec 17, 2010 at 8:52 PM
    #5
    Himiler

    Himiler Active Member

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    The por 15 is a good product only for areas that see no sunlight. The milky look was from sunshine, not designed for sunlight. The best use Ive seen is under a mower deck on a riding mower. To paint use the peeps marine clean,metal etch than brush it on. Yea I said brush. It self levels wonderfully. The marine clean is the best degreaser I've used mix it half with water and spray on your warm motor, drive it to the carwash and spray the bad and dried areas again and rinse. Use meguires on the hoses and plastics and it will be wonderful. I used 2 quarts on my 65 Suburban frame yearsago and besides being milky since I didn't get the body back on I am pleased. USE ONLY WHAT SIZE CAN THAT YOU WILL FINISH THAT DAY YOU WILL NOT GET THE CAN OPEN NEXT WEEK
     
  6. Dec 17, 2010 at 9:41 PM
    #6
    RZRob

    RZRob Well-Known Member

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    I've used it to seal motorcycle gas tanks, prepping first with Muratic Acid. Good stuff. Available on Amazon etc..

    RZ Rob
     
  7. Dec 18, 2010 at 4:23 AM
    #7
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Advantage Torza top (tri-fold), Husky floor mats, RuffTuff seat covers, C2C hood struts, Homelink mirror, USA Spec PA15-Toy (120gig Classic & 8gig nano), Garmin Nuvi 660, Protecta Bed mat, Pop-n-lock, TSB Springs, Scangauge II, Heated drivers seat, Fumoto drain valve, Aries pushbar, PIAA 540 fog lights, Hood scoop grahics, Flowmaster 50 series dual catback exhaust, RainX Latitude windshield wipers, Husky rear floor liner (ontop of folded down seats). Console Vault.
    I've used it on Dana 44 axles for my jeep build. I can't say that I'd ever buy it again - depends on what you're using it for.

    On bare, smooth, or 'new' metal - it's not all that great and eventually peels off. We cleaned, and prepped the area as specified in the instructions & used their 'metal ready' product also. The stuff still peels off in spots.
    The prep work for this type of metal is critical !!!

    For rusted up areas & cast (like diff housings) - it works really good. Since rust & cast areas are more porous - the stuff is able to stick better and seep into the material. Prep work for these types of areas isn't as critical.

    It's expensive shit.... and not sure I'd do that again using POR15.
     
  8. Dec 18, 2010 at 5:16 AM
    #8
    moto932

    moto932 What's the matter, Colonel Sandurz? CHICKEN?

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  9. Dec 18, 2010 at 5:55 AM
    #9
    Hunter500ky

    Hunter500ky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    See I have surface rust on my frame and some little pitted areas,

    I dont mind to do A LOT of work on the frame (no lift so Ill be crawling underneath it) as long as its worth it.

    I want to keep this truck for a long time


    LOL watch them re-call it in 5-10 years after I do all this awesome work to try to prevent rust lol


    Edit I know I cant get all the frame but Im going to get as much as I can
     
  10. Dec 18, 2010 at 6:19 AM
    #10
    85GT 79FJ40

    85GT 79FJ40 Well-Known Member

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    One of the old timer's from Tacoma Territory! Cool. I actually had a number of areas on my FJ40 frame (oddly enough bought it from a guy who was from Lancaster, PA) that were peeling too when it was done with POR 15. When I restored it I sandblasted the entire frame and axles but then I smoothed out the axles with sandpaper and actually used body filler on the outside frame rails to make them smooth, then I sprayed it with the eastwood rust encapsulator, then I sprayed on a few coats of chassis black on the frame. On the axles I topcoated with gloss black centari enamel. The truck is essentially a garage queen but I've put about 20k miles on it since then (10 years ago) and it still looks mint. No peeling, no cracking, nothing. Hopefully it works just as good on the 05 daily driver.
     
  11. Dec 18, 2010 at 6:42 AM
    #11
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    I moded 1999 Taco so much it had turned to Land Cruiser
    I did the same thing. 90% of my frame is now repainted with multiple coats. The hardest part is painting inside the frame on the front. Complete PITA.
    BTW underside of the cab needs repainting too.
    To answer a question you need atleast of gallon of paint to coat the frame with single coat using brush. Thats why I used Por15 in only specific areas the rest is painted with primer and black paint (both from Tractor supply)
     
  12. Dec 18, 2010 at 7:20 AM
    #12
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Welcome to Tacomaworld!! Wow, I didn't think there were any old timers left!

    Now, you can't just come in there and tell us about your FJ and not post picts!?? :D

    Love the old FJ's..Toyota should bring those back again and I'm talking about the same style (2 door, top come off) FJ as it used to be. :thumbsup:
     
  13. Dec 18, 2010 at 7:29 AM
    #13
    Hunter500ky

    Hunter500ky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What did you use on the the frame and the underbody?

    Did you coat the whole frame with POR 15 or where did you coat?

    What else did you use? Is it holding up well?

    I know I cant STOP ALL rust but I want to stop as much as I can.
     
  14. Dec 18, 2010 at 7:47 AM
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    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    I moded 1999 Taco so much it had turned to Land Cruiser
    Most of the painting I did with Valspar primer and paint
    http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricu...y-emblems-decals/tractor-paint/?currentPage=3
    Their Primer (Valspar Tractor & Implement Metal Primer, Red Oxide) is up to the Toyota sepcs for body work on Land Cruisers :D (must be because LC is Farm Equipement too )
    Then their Black enamel on top of that.
    I used POr15 everywhere where I could not clean rust very well. This way POR15 can bind rust and primer will go on top of that and black enamel on top of that.
    All brushed
    I have to say that Valspray paint is super nice quality. It creates very thick coat and frame where is painted survived last fall/winter/spring with out so much as the chip or speck of rust. When I was researching that paint it said that its good for 20 years and I can say it looks like it will hold it. I have railing painted with just primer and 4 winters with out even dusting of rust. :D Really like it.
     
  15. Dec 18, 2010 at 1:31 PM
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    Hunter500ky

    Hunter500ky [OP] Well-Known Member

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  16. Dec 18, 2010 at 5:23 PM
    #16
    DrRabbitFurHead

    DrRabbitFurHead Yeah, there's a TSB for that!

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    Wait... the dealership in FL adds "Toyo Guard" protection package to all of their trucks. It's like a $600 option. Need to break out that warranty to see what it says. Does anyone know what product the dealers use?
     
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