Por-15 question

So a friend with a 2018 Taco visited me this weekend. He lives in Northern Virginia (ie the salt zone). I have been telling him to Fluid Film and we went under his frame for a look. He has numerous little (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch) rather superficial rust spots, many of which are in places that will be a pain to wire brush out (eg awkward weld seams). On my Taco I had a few small, easily reached rust spots and I wire brushed them out and then painted over with Por-15 ahead of Fluid Filming for the first time.

I dont think he has the time to do that given the job ahead of him before another salt season begins. I am thinking of suggesting he just come down here and we leave the tiny rust spots on and Fluid Film the shit out of his frame.

Is this a bad idea?

 

Just fluid flim it well and keep an eye on it. If the fluid flim wash's off, it'll need to be done again, and again.

 

I do my fluid film in november, and then again in late january/feburary if needed.


I did POR15 on two trucks, BY HAND and it eventually wears thin or peals off. Fluid film is nasty and messy but, its the easier method for sure. Just avoid getting it on ANYTHING rubber

 

Heh. Being a NoVA native I wouldn't exactly call the area a "salt zone." I'm not even sure the use it anymore. Mostly what I see applied is the fish stuff and sand.

But if he really wants to do something more permanent, there's a place on Draper Drive in Fairfax that does a coating. I can't remember the name. They used to be a Ziebart joint but have since moved on. Googlingl should bring it up. It's not a traditional undercoat, but something else. It's also not cheap, but looks better and seems more durable than anything else I've witnessed.

Edit: This is it Car Detailing & Tinting In Fairfax VA | Automotive Protection Services (apsrustandtint.com)

I've never used it. I started talking to them on one vehicle, but then the vehicle left my ownership. I do know a few folks that have had it done and they swear by it.

 

Krown Rustproofing for the win. Not sure if it's avail in the USA?????

 

God I hate salted roads. I've seen it cause as many accidents as it prevents. I grew up in the mountains where we just put cinder, and most drove slower because you'd know black ice was a possibility.

Anyway, I would keep the fluid film on it until he can take care of it

 

Per rubber, I heard that was only for some older rubbers.

The trouble is I dont know how to avoid it since Fluid Film tends to seep around a lot

 

It seems like the consensus here is go ahead with fluid film

 

For the record NoVa is not the salt zone. Just ask GM who refused to honor a recall only in high salt areas. For the record, GM considers MD a salt zone .
Easy, don't drive in MD.
Still a little bitter, never ever by a GM product.
Btw, when I pointed out my truck spent 4 months a year in the salt zone the still denied.
To be clear eff GM and all their products.
Recall involved low speed sensor on and breaking system.
NoVa folks will understand.

 

I hold up a piece of card board in one hand to shield what I dont want the over spray on

 

Well, GM sound like aholes with this. Wikipedia does put VA in the salt zone: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_Belt
I grew up in upstate NY where the use of salt is many times what you would probably see in DC or NOVA, but at least by his description salt use in NOVA is higher than where I live now (Durham, NC).

That said even down here I did have tiny amounts of rust on my frame when I began Fluid Filming. I did Por-15 those spots but as someone above mentioned, I have noticed it peeling.

 

I’m in MN where they put mountains of salt on the road. I would steer clear of adding POR15 to your frame or underside of your vehicle. As AR15xAR10 said, POR15 will eventually peel off and as it starts to peel, water will see behind the POR15 that is left and the metal below will start to rust. I had this issue with my 80 series LC. One of the previous owners had put POR15 on the underside of the vehicle and there was a lot of rust below the old POR15. It took a lot of time and effort to remove that rust. Go with Fluid Film and save yourself a headache down the road.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE1_EiZIVHs&t=690

 

Live in the rust belt salt brine on roads all winter long after 3 years of using 4-6 cans of fluid film each November my undercarriage still looks new. And fluid film really isn’t that easy to wash off unless you sit there with a power washer hitting the same spot for a few minutes.

 

I will never fluid Film again. Can't stand the smell and it washes off so easily and contrary some it did start to rust again right away. I tried Amsoil MP HD and it is so much better. Spray 2 coats and after drying is a harder wax like finish that really works good. Super running right away so it gets into things well then dries.You do need to wait about a day for a second coat though. Then each year do a light touch up coat and good to go.

 

Krown has worked for me for the last 25 years. I used to drive across the border to have it done in Canada now there is a place near me in Michigan. I have it applied in November and don't think about it until the next year. My 94 Ram 2500 Cummins truck has no rust and is still plowing snow and dragging a landscape trailer with 355k. I'll have it put on both trucks and my wife's Rav4 next month.

 

Maryland here: they salt the roads if it's going to be anywhere near freezing and with precipitation. I recall watching the trucks running around in a downpour and 38degrees and warming temps. So often we're right on the line with snow to the north and rain to the south. So frustrating to see so much tax money going into salt that eats up cars and messes up the watersheds. I've Fluid filmed every December with plans to keep my truck for a long time.

 

Without reading all the posts, I'll give my 2c.
POR15 is great stuff, if you heavily prep. Their prep chemicals don't do squat. If you want it to stick and stay stuck, you need to sand blast the metal then apply multiple coats.
I did this on the frame of my parents Airstream. I had to add an outrigger due to design changes that needed a little more support. A flap disc gummed up, had to switch to a grinding wheel to get it off to weld.