Portland Area Gear Installation

5

 

Paden used 80W-90 in my first fill.

 

Perfect thanks!

 

Gears are in. I’m 4 heat cycles in. Gonna do the final heat cycle on my way back to Eugene, wait 30 min, and then drive the rest of the way home. So far these gears are amazing. I’ll update if folks want, otherwise I’ll just say that I highly recommend Paden Drivetrain. Mike installed my air locker for me and the gears in like 6 hours. Used a master install kit and everything at the price you guys have seen quoted around here. They don’t cut corners.

 

Nice, updates will be appreciated. Did buy your own parts and bring them in? Or did Paden sell you the parts?

 

I bought the air locker but Paden Drivetrain provided the gears.

Update; I did the 5 heat cycles (1 while on the phone with Nitro Gear telling me what to do) and then headed down i5 home to Eugene. Stopped at exactly the 50 mile mark as instructed and checked my diff. Fluid all over the place. Called a tow truck at midnight to tow it all the way back up to Portland where it’s at now. What we (Paden Drivetrain and I) think went wrong is he didn’t put the O-Ring on when installing the chuck for my air locker. Basically when the diff got a little hot the shit started to find the gap between the copper air tube and the air chuck (where the O-Ring was supposed to go!) and lost all kinds of fluid. The throw pattern of the hot gear oil all over the back of my truck leads me to believe that’s definitely the case. Easy fix assuming the gears aren’t roasted. Luckily I think I stopped well before any gear issues would have arisen. Paden Drivetrain is taking care of it today - they’re ripping the whole diff out again to check that the gears are okay and then re-doing the air chuck correctly. They even called ARB directly to make sure they get the seal right this time. We’ll see how it goes. Was definitely a very, very long night but something could have been muuuch worse if that thing ran out of fluid.

On a warm night the underside of your truck shouldn’t look like it just got a bath:

 

Glad you caught it when you did! Sounds like Paden is righting their wrong responsibly. Thanks for keeping us informed; I'm still looking forward to getting this done later this year.

 

Dropping my truck off on Monday, finally. Not stimulus related for the record. Hell, did I start this thread?!

 

Whoa! That sucks. You’re right, could’ve been worse. That’s a smelly mess! Let us know how it goes.

 

Has anyone put on a front locker?

 

Negative, sorry. Loving the 4.88s so far. Like a different truck, and like a truck again. Nice to be able to start in second if the situation allows. A little surprised how high the rpms are at 65 in 5th with 255/85R16s but also not sure I’m getting exact gps reading and I don’t have cruise control, but it’s fantastic. 300 miles into break-in. Either way, worst case I’ll throw on some 315s.

 

Still very pleased with my 4.56’s and how they move my 35’s. No regrets. Between the OVTUNE and regear, I’m very satisfied with how my truck drives and feels on the road.

 

Just about through my break in period with the rear end everything has been good so far...Unfortunately due to the pandemic I haven’t had the time to work the front end in. I had noticed yesterday my front diff is leaking pretty bad. Going to call paden today and see if they can give it a look.

 

Oh damn! That's odd since you haven't engaged the front. Have any pictures?

 

Since ya'll will need to do this eventually:

Fluids

• Oil itself 3.2 L for the rear and 1.6 L for the front if you have an 8" rear diff w/o factory locker: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VjRitBh2IVQAdEAQYBCABEgJFs_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
• The only replacement OEM T-Case oil I could find 1 L:
  RAVENOL J1C1003 SAE 75W Gear Oil - MTF-3 Full Synthetic (1 Liter)
  https://www.amazon.com/Ravenol-J1C1003-Manual-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B00QPCL7ZE

Parts and Tools

• Replacement Gaskets:
  $15 GENUINE TOYOTA GASKET KIT FOR TRANSFER AND DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017V4BAXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Fluid Transfer pump:
• 10 mm Hex Socket (1/2" drive or get an adapter for torque wrench + breaker) for the front drain and fill plugs
• 24 mm Socket (1/2" drive) for rear and T-Case drill and fill plugs
• Torque Wrench (1/2")
• Breaker Bar (1/2")
• Drain Pan

Torque Specs

• Front fill hole = 29 lb-ft
• Front drain hole = 48 lb-ft
• Rear fill hole = 36 lb-ft
• Rear drain hole = 36 lb-ft
• T-Case fill hole = 27 lb-ft
• T-Case drain hole = 27 lb-ft

 

My front diff wept a bit at first. I cleaned it up and have been keeping an eye on it. Haven’t noticed anything since.

 

no pictures. Noticing it’s leaking from the driver side front diff seal. Called paden and he ordered me a new seal and said he could install as soon as I can get the truck in.
He said they go out often??
Makes me wonder if he just used the old seals

 

Just scheduled my appointment for Padens on Thursday. 5.29s, Auto e locker, $1800ish.

 

This is killing me. Thinking of forgoing my vacation in July. An drive down and do this.

 

FYI for anyone looking for an excuse to come to Bend... I got a quote from a shop in town that is absolutely shockingly cheap. I made an apt for next Tuesday and will report back. The guy has been working on gears forever, older dude that just seems like a great guy. Will be using Nitros though I told him I’m not picky. Is also throwing in a ECGS bushing free of charge if I bring it and the tool to him. So stoked!