Possible Blown Head Gasket

AFAIK there are no printed FSMs for 2nd gens after.. what, I think maybe it's 2005 or so? It's all online after that.

So either buy a short-term Tech Stream subscription or go with a 3rd-party online FSM service like alldata.com. Alldata has a free 7 day trial. I've been through the 2nd gen (2014 Taco in my case) files on Alldata in some detail and have to say that it's "pretty good," maybe 80%-ish coverage, but not 100%. Some sections / systems seem to be missing entirely from various tables-of-contents, and sometimes the instructions don't perfectly match the complete, original Toyota instructions from TechStream.

 

Ok, thanks for that. I'll keep it in mind when reassembly time comes, cause I think that's where I'll really need it. Seems disassembling will just be busting nuts and bolts loose mainly. I'm sure I'll be able to figure that part out with out a book.

 

Your best bet in that case will be video documentation -- GoPro head-mounted cam would be ideal -- along with very careful sorting, marking, & separating removed parts and fasteners into neat piles or small boxes to make re-assembly easier.

I've never done a head gasket myself but I've watched several excellent youtube vids on it. If I can find those links I'll add them to this thread.

 

Here, I found an older post of mine on this topic:
Read this, & watch these:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-size-is-my-crank-bolt.794927/#post-28480808

The guy who did those videos, "Schrodingers Box" on youtube, is a widely-followed and well-respected automotive diagnostician.

 

Use the wayback machine to find an archived link with the service manual still there.

 

Here is the part list from when I did my 4Runner

- Gasket Kit #04112-31720 - $180

- SnapOn 10 mm Bi-Hex tool - $30

- 23mm Open Ended Box Wrench - $18

- Water Pump #16100-09471- $87

- Head Bolts #90910-02162 (x16) - $110

- Mobil 1 Syn Oil 5 Qts (x3) - $75

- Toyota OEM Filters (x2) - $13

- Toyota Super Long Life Coolnt (x3) - $66

- Toyota OEM Spark Plugs (x6) - $24

- Toyota FIPG (RTV) #

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103 - $18

- Machine heads and install valve seals - $180

Total: $801

This was almost 10 years ago, so prices I'm sure have increased.

Documentation starts here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wishbone-runners-build.238998/page-13#post-9422347

 

I used some of the pages linked in my thread above and the Haynes manual, which was actually pretty good.

 

I just looked at what I paid online last year in December and the prices were considerably higher as you mentioned. I paid $229.88 last year for the gasket kit. It is going for around $279 now just one year later. These are online prices, I don't even want to know what the local dealer price would be.

 

Well.... like I say at work...

Gotta get this shit started to get it over with.

My HOA ain't gonna like me. Lol.

 

Looking for advice on how to deal with this wire loom... in particular... the large one that runs (in this pic) to the right under the oil filler neck to the fuse / relay box. I see no way of disconnecting it. From looking at it, it seems ill just have to live with it there and bring out the valve cover and head from under it

 

There is no free lunch. You have to live with the wire loom. Just remove it from the stand offs and move it aside. I used some tape to hold it out of the way while working.

Edit: See image. Once everything is disconnected you can lift the whole loom up and tape it to the cowl and / or wiper blades.

 

Well, I took my time... didn't throw any wrenches today. Even took an hour break to help my oldest son with a light project on his car.

I have almost everything off the front of the engine, Having problems locating a bolt on the AC compressor. Other than that, it's only the crank pully on the front.

On top however, I only have to free the wire loom from the stand off pins... im breaking every single one of those... then pull all that out of the way.

I also need to figure out how to unhook the fuel lines at the rails. I don't know how those couplings work. Any help here?

Hoping by tomorrow afternoon I'll be looking at busting head bolts free. I'm doubtful of that though. I don't want to mess with anything timing related until my buddy can come over and supervise my shit show. Haha

Hands are cut up, bloodied, and stained with grease... Why the hell did I volunteer to do this! Lol

 

I don't recall those, sorry no help. Do you have the head bolt socket?

 

I have the same 2.5gen Taco V6 1GR-FE, in my case a 2014.

There are 2 parts of the fuel line connectors under the hood --

1) A large, black, funny-looking plastic retaining clip/block with long legs. This can be removed by hand/finger pressure, just pull it backwards away from the open "C" jaws on it and it will pop off.

2) The actual fuel-line quick disconnect will then be exposed. This has (2) plastic push-in plates (flat and flush with the sides of the connector) which may be gray, yellow, or some other color. Push in BOTH of these (on opposite sides) gently with an appropriate tool, and then when they are firmly pushed, pull gently straight up on the connector and it should pop off.

Be alert for residual fuel pressure if the truck has been started any time in the past 12 hours. Have a rag ready to catch any fuel drips. (Not a lot will come out, maybe a tablespoon or two max in my experience.)

Here's a video showing just the 2nd part of what I described above. Not a Tacoma but it's a Toyota with the same type of connector.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJ7me1Nu7sE&t=70s

Reseating is simply the opposite of installing, but no need to push in the tabs, just push the connector down firmly until it pops/clicks into place, then put the plastic retaining clip/block/leg part back in place.

After putting everything back together ---> Be sure to inspect and watch the fuel line connections carefully on first start-up, with hood open. I like to watch it for at least a full minute or two to be sure it isn't leaking any fuel.

 

Take your time with the stand offs. I do recall having some issues. I think I was able to use a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. I recall having more difficulty with disconnecting electrical harnesses than those.

Regarding the fuel lines, another member gave you good info. That’s exactly what I recall. Wrap it with a rag when you disconnect to be careful. I don’t remember a lot of fuel coming out though.

Regarding the AC compressor, I have to see if I have any pictures, but I recall the bracket having 4 or 5 bolts. May need to go through the wheel well for better access.

The FSM does come in handy when you run into issues. I suggest getting one.

I would have tried to remove the crank pulley bolt sooner than later. Several of us here have had problems getting it out and resorted to the bump start method to loosen it.

Btw, get yourself some disposable gloves. No reason to have dirty hands in this day and age.

 

There are a number of complete, start-to-finish 1GR-FE engine removal and/or head-gasket replacement videos on youtube.

I can't vouch for the skill or completeness of any of these, but I would imagine they might come in handy for getting through uncertain parts of the disassembly/gasket install/reassembly process.

NB in this case it's a 2006 Tundra so there would be some significant differences here and there w/ various things like the SAIS system, which was only added on around 2012 I think.)

Here's one, there are several others if you search for "1GR-FE head gasket."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIbeoMpGxEc

 

I spent a lot of time reading head gasket threads on this forum and many others. I also spent a considerable amount of time researching videos on Youtube. The videos and threads I found most relevant and helpful are listed in my summary post on the thread I created almost 1 year ago when I took on this job. The video referenced above is good and is one of them. Unfortunately there is not one video that shows all steps needed to be done.

 

Go to the Toyota TIS website and buy the 2 day access. Spend an afternoon printing to PDF all the documents you need and save them to a thumb drive or burn a disk. That's what I did.

-J

 

I had to bump the starter, was not what I wanted to do, but was left no choice. Big breaker bar wedged on the frame>tap the ignition>Boom!

 

I've just skimmed, and it seems you're well on your way.

I didn't service the head (should have) but rather did the timing components. And I did an informal write-up you can find here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/used-tacoma-sludged-engine.808661/

There's a lot of chit-chat, and me scratching my head over stuff that I don't think would challenge a sound mind, but I put in a lot of pictures and individual steps with emphasis on the areas where I struggled, what worked, what didn't. I don't know if it will be useful to you, but there's a lot in there, so I figure it might.

With that, I'd also like to recommend, for the first time in my whole life, the haynes manual for our truck. I found it to be more linear, more user friendly, more detailed (if you can imagine) and as a result more useful than the TIS document which I reviewed and printed vast sections of. The suggestion there-in to use a knife (and rubber mallet) to remove the strictly siliconed-on oil pan was alone worth the sticker price and a trick I'll be relying on when necessary for the remainder of my days wrenching. It just wouldn't come off any other way

The manual referral is moreso for if you encounter further difficulty.

Great job so far, and I look forward to your updates with intent to go back and read everything in full.

Fair winds and following seas!