Possible Blown Head Gasket

Regarding the FSM. I checked and I bought mine from eManualOnline.com. I think I paid $25 or something like that 4 years ago.

 

This question pertains specifically to the 2012 model, as I understand it... it was the only model to come with this "emissions pump" thing. Can I reuse the little metal gaskets where the hoses connects to this? I'm sure since this is very model year specific, that the standard gasket kit will not come with new ones.

 

This thing here... by the way....

 

our 09 2.7 has a secondary air injection system, though I believe it's different from yours. and only the dealer could get the gaskets for me. took a week, I think. Couldnt find them anywhere else... dual layer metal gasket, yeah?

 

not sure if you already got the valve cover and head off, but do your self a favor and squeeze the plastic wire loom sleeves all over. when i installed my supercharger, they practically crumbled off, made a huge mess. fortunately i had already taped up the manifold ports so no debris got inside, but spent a lot of time with compressed air and a shop vac to get the mess out of there, then replaced it with a new loom sleeve.

 

No, haven't gotten the valve covers off yet, I took a break from it yesterday and helped my friend with his project. I'm seriously in no hurry. I'm still short on cash for all the parts, and still have to plan to pay a machine shop for a valve job and possible resurfacing. So while I get funds together... ill take my time. Also, I have had to move a couple of my short wire looms out of my way and yeah.... they're brittle and crumbling at the smallest touch. Even had one plastic wire plug half crumble when I unplugged it. IDK WTF I'll end up doing about that when I'm putting it back together.... but I guess I'll see when the time comes.
I can get that wire cover stuff at pretty much any Auto Zone or Napa store right? I think I've seen it there before.

 

Yep, it's a couple of small metal gaskets, I'll see if I can talk to a Toyota tech locally and ask them about that

 

yeah I picked up several sizes at oreillys. I’m sure auto one and Napa have it too. Might be able to find it cheaper on Amazon if you’re not in a rush though

 

May not need head work. When you have them off, check with a flash light and straight edge, valve seals are easy to do with the head on the bench (& probably worthwhile at that mileage). Just fill the ports with acetone to see if anything leaks past the valves. If it doesn’t, you’re good.

 

I'm REALLY hoping that I don't need any done, it SHOULDN'T since I caught this problem early and it's never ran hot.

 

I believe the service specification for 1GR-FE head warpage is less-than-or-equal-to .004 inch over the length of one 3-cylinder head.

A straight edge suitable for gauging possible head warp is ideally a machinist-grade straight edge with an advertised flatness tolerance to +/- .0001 inch (over 24" length) or better, not a random shop ruler or spirit level that happens to be lying around in a tool box.

Here's an example of one such from a reasonably well-respected brand:

$61 OEMTOOLS 25355 Straight Edge 24", Machinist Straight Edge Made in USA, Precision Ground ±0.001" for Engine Block Inspections, Cold Rolled Steel Straight Edge

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25355-Inch-Straight-Edge/dp/B076ZYJPGR/

 

I have had two of these (first one gifted to my neighbor) and had no issues with my iPhones. I’d recommend it.

 

Aha!! I can help you! But it'll kinda suck.

It was about 10 years ago, and a rather low point in my life, AND I screwed the job in ways unimaginable with my weird ideas, but I did rebuild a full engine wire harness.



I made two big errors. 1: I used high-temp stereo wire because it was all I found that had a temp rating.. don't ****ing do that. Just use automotive awg wire from the auto parts store.
2: my lengths were not exact matches, and I replaced so much of the harness removing old connectors that all the factory bends in it were gone. This made it quite freakin hard to reinstall. If you can, just do any needed little mends with it installed on the truck.

This engine had overheated and parts of the harness were cooked to the point that the wires melted together..

Anyways. If you have areas of concern regarding heat wherein your wires might be a little melty you can try using the same tape I did. It's fiberglass oven wiring tape - which I learned about while replacing an igniter for our old oven. If you go this route, don't go nuts. It's too expensive

$22 3M Glass Cloth Electrical Tape 27, 3/4 in x 66 ft, 1 Roll, Non-Corrosive Adhesive, Pressure Sensitive, High Temperature, Corrosion Protection, 7-mil Woven

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Electrical-Rubber-Thermosetting-Adhesive/dp/B000V4NYC6?ie=UTF8

Another thing of use. The electrical connectors! My chevy needed Metri pack connectors and terminals. Just google search that admittedly, finding your specific connector may be hard. look for any kind of code hidden on it, and pair it with electrical connector or metripack in a search.. should get you close. just be sure to match images.

Not 100% sure whether toyota's are the same - I'd have to look. The wire terminals get removed from the connectors using a tiny flathead inserted either through the face of the connector or through the back where the wire entered it. You can buy a pack of wire terminal tools.
like these, or, you know, less overpriced

$37 JRready ST5234 Pin Extractor Tool Set for AMP Super Seal1.5 /Metri Pack 150280/TE 968880968849/ JST Connector kit,Automotive Wire connectors Sealed Male/Female Terminal Removal Tool Kit 5PCS

https://www.amazon.com/JRready-Extr..._csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm

Ah damn it all, I gotta get ready for work.
I'll have some input later on lapping valves. tools to accomplish it..

 

you might be better served having the machine shop handle valves for yuh. it's more money, but... but if you wanna pull em, I've used this puller before

$84 OTC 4572 Large Valve Spring Compressor , black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F5ECUY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You'd also want valve grinding compounds.. and a gear marking compound, unless you wanna use something else you feel will work.
The gear marking compound will give you an idea of your seal between the valves and their seats.

I would like to suggest the following: dont do the head and skip doing the valves. I mean, you can but. You're not likely to get back in there.. and your truck would in all likelihood run noticeably better if you did it. half-way to new as far as the engine is concerned. rings being the other half.. It's a time-suck, and a money suck. but doing all that work just to stay on the road, not feeling any difference is.. Like coming to Georgia and not eating a peach in the bathtub, where you can fully enjoy its excessive juice content. You'll wonder what could have been.

 

Oh I wanted to add one more thing, then I'll shut up. Mini quick disconnects. From Amazon. Dainty little spade connectors, 1/4-1/3 the width of standard at the contact point. In a pinch, you can use the female connectors to substitute a proper automotive electrical connector. I loosen up the jaws of 'em with my smallest flathead before install, otherwise the guts rip out/jacket rips off when you give 'em a yank to disconnect.

$13 Baomain Female/Male Red Spade Insulated Electrical Crimp Terminal Connectors 22-16 AWG 2.8mm Pack of 200

https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Insu...s=mini+spade+connector&qid=1702698258&sr=8-16

Another thing I'll add to recommendations.. Is a soldering iron that works every time. For me, that's the Hakko FX-888D. It's annoying to move and store the set up, but unlike the $40 red Weller pistol I don't have to keep a screwdriver in my off-hand to keep the tip tight, thus hot.. literally. that's what I had to do. Also, I'm still using the original tip (spent a little extra to get the chisel tip. never taken it off.)
the hakko hits 750 in a few seconds, and has a screen showing you if temps drop. bounces it back up near-instantly. I really like this tool.

Try not to worry too much about your harness. The factory bends and one-spot-only connectors will get it back to where it's needed when the time comes.


Fancy soldering iron not mandatory.
That's it! I'm done!

 

You should not need to change the tensioners, guides or chains???

I have an extra brand new OEM tensioner I'll sell you for $25 plus ship. If you need one.

 

I have an extra brand new OEM tensioner, an extra brand new head bolt socket tool and a used Spanner Wrench set, I can give you a good deal on if you need them.

I think I have an extra 1GR-FE engine wiring harness also

 

As a former (chevy) dealer tech I can say that machining heads is a thing of the past. ESPECIALLY on overhead cam engines with vvt. The reduced head to block height could cause timing code issues to occur. Even if we had something with a leaking head gasket from overheating, we'd check the flatness as mentioned above with a straight edge. I don't know the spec but typically it's 0.001" per cylinder lengthwise. So for this engine i'd guess 0.003" length wise and probably 0.002" width wise. If it's not warped on either block or head that much then don't mill the head.

A valve job sure. If you have adjustable valve clearances then for sure set them and change your valve steam seals.

You can check for valve leakage by laying the head upside down and filling head side of either cylinder with acetone, brake clean, kerosene... any light solvent really. Wait a couple minutes then look in the intake and exhaust ports for moisture. As mentioned above.

biggest take away i want to portray is don't machine the head if it's not excessively warped. Even if it is I would recommend replacing it instead of milling. A pushrod engine is more forgiving to head work than a overhead cam engine

 

So I put in a few more hours of work on her today, getting real close to pulling head bolts. So far everything has come out pretty ok, still fighting with one bolt (bottom rear) on the AC compressor. I was able to get my ratchet on it and break it loose, only had enough space to get 3 or four clicks on the ratchet each turn. Then after 5 or 6 short pulls on this bolt, it got so loose the ratchet wouldn't "ratchet" any more. Haha. So I tried to get my fingers on it and it's too tight of space to get a grip, and what grip I could get wasn't enough to turn the dang bolt. So I gave up on that part again today before I started throwing crap.

Also.... why do I feel like I haven't taken the belt tensioner off? I did get all the pullies... I just don't see a way to take the actual tensioner off.

Anyway... this is where I'm at... got a friend comming in the AM to help out tomorrow, so maybe I'll get the heads out in the afternoon


Oh... an edit here...
Can't figure out what type of bit / socket thing I need for the head bolts... getting conflicting answers. Toyota tech told me it's either a "10mm spline drive" or a "12mm 12point"

 

Head bolts need a 10mm bi-hex tool. This is NOT the same as a triple square. I used the CTA 9292 tool.