Possible Blown Head Gasket

Awesome dude, glad to see it!

 

OUTSTANDING WORK!!!!!

And I see what you mean about that middle piston looking a bit clean! I don't know that I would have picked up on a difference like that though

And I'm sure there are some threads to help, but if not.. Get the haynes manual. No, not the TIS Toyota thing. In this one instance, haynes is the way to go.

 

Yeah, I took several pics... half worried I didn't take enough. As far as the Hayne Manuel.... I decided to buy a 1 year subscription of "alldata.com". It's pretty precise an the instructions and break downs, it's different for sure.... using a digital format and all but it's got all the info I would need and then some.

I just dropped the heads off at the machine shop, he quoted me for two types of jobs, one being very basic, and the other was a whole overhaul of the heads and valves. I chose the more complete (and more expensive wow!) job to redo the valves and pressure check, and resurfacing for 600 bucks. Really wasn't expecting that high of a price tag, but... I gotta do it. Should take him about 2 weeks I think. He said he needed my cams and caps for regrinding them back to spec. He said he's done dozens of the Toyota 4.0 heads, and when he seen them, he was shocked and said Oh... these are the later model heads.
I've never had to pay for this type of service and I'm real nervous and hoping he don't mess me up.

 

I don't think that is a lot to do a pressure check, resurfacing and valve job. Over here in the Chicagoland suburbs we would have to pay a lot more than that.

Just another note regarding resurfacing. I don't think I would have them resurface the heads assuming the warpage is within the spec as listed in the Service Manual. Call me crazy but I'm not sure if they know what the specific spec for acceptable warpage is for those heads are.

 

So now I just wait on the heads to be done at the machine shop. I've 95% of the "cleaning" done on the mating surfaces. I'll give it another good once over just before the heads go in.

One real problem I'm worried about.... my wife is gonna have me by the short and curlys when I'm done with this and she sees the garage floor. May have to give it (garage floor) one of them fancy expensive floor coatings. Haha

 

Time for a shave

 

Ok guys... help calm my nerves a bit. Finally got my heads back from machine shop, my buddy and I started the reassembly process today. Got the heads put in and torqued to spec. Got the cams installed (finger tight) started trying to set the timing. We checked, dubble checked... then checked again... all the timing marks looked great to us both and we were confident all was well. We torqued down the cams and tensioners and pulled the pins on them as well. My buddy said... lets rotate the engine and make sure no valves are hitting the pistons. So we rotate with a ratchet and put all the timing chain paint back where it began but the timing marks were off. He's now thinking (because of slack in the chain) that it's off by one tooth. I don't think it is... I told him that it may take hundreds of rotations to make everything line up perfectly again because not every part is turning at the same rate (or RPMs). There was no interference in the engine turning by the way.

So are we over thinking it? We both feel like the timing was set perfectly before we rotated the engine.

 

I would double check the timing. I was off by one tooth initially when I installed mine. Not sure how it happened but it was. It is very easy to be off by one tooth by the crankshaft when putting the chain back on.

 

Here are some pics once mine was set.

 

The timing marks are only there to set initial timing, they will move and only line up every 720 deg or 2 rotations.

edit: NVM the 720 deg thing I think im remembering a SBC. But its the same concept, for any engine. It only lines up every so many turns depending on gear ratios.

 

The number of rotations for the 2.7 was in the 70s to align all gear marks. The marks themselves may not align perfect. They didn't for me (again, 2.7.) if you want i can pull images from my sludged engine thread and show you the extent to which they were off. but it shouldnt matter so long as the pulleys line up close as can to the cam marks

Edit: what id show you is the same as @zguy1 . You can see how theyre slightly off. but its all good.

 

This timing marks on the crankshaft, block, gears and bearing caps will align after two rotations but chain colors will not after the initial installation. It takes many more revolutions (don’t recall how many) for everything including the chain colors to be in sync.

 

Oddly enough... we set mine up just like this.... except opposite... we did the double marks on the intake cam on the driver's side, and single mark intake cam on the passenger side. Still should work just fine though I do believe.

 

It's been over a year so I am going off of my pictures and the FSM. The FSM shows to set it to single on passenger and double on drivers side. I looked through my pics and I had taken a ton before disassembly with timing set. It's pretty clear where the marks are.

 

Well guys... my pooch has been screwed... I'm focked... up chit creek.... not the absolute worst case... but my truck just ain't right.

My buddy and I got her all put back together today, minus a few beauty parts. At the first start up, we had a minor hiccup with the fuel lines not being fully connected and leaking gas everywhere, but got that resolved fairly quick. The second start up... she threw a CEL and Track Off... idle was a bit ruff. Sitting in the driver's seat almost felt like a massage chair. A little rev and it smooths out. Short drive around the neighborhood and acceleration feels a bit sluggish. Got on the main road for a mile and at highway speed, it won't shift into 5th gear (probably side effect from codes I assume). While I had her out I stopped by Auto Zone to get the coded pulled. See them below.

Anyway, my buddy still thinks the timing is a tooth off... IDK.... im really a defeated man right now...

I'm gonna bounce some stuff off you guys for a few days while I figure out my next step.

 

Sounded like your timing was off in your previous post, did you correct that before reassembling?

 

No, we pressed forward... sure wish we would have.

 

Ok I just googled all those codes.... can a one tell me if these OBD2 codes can have a cascading effect (or avalanche like)?

Seems my timing is off by a tooth wich would explain the P0016 code, but can that problem (timing off, rough idle, ect) cause the other codes to trip?
I ask this because I had no CEL or codes before I did this head gasket. I would find it hard to believe that I have all these problems (codes) now...

Now the C1422 code ... that ones got me scratching my head, like before no codes but now there is? I'm wondering if I unplugged something and didn't plug it back in and it happens to be a wire for the master cylinder... ill look more into that later. Right now I'm considering breaking it back down and resetting the timing.

 

At the very least the valve covers have to come off again.

Make sure you have the grounds attached to the back of the head as a reminder. 2 of them.

 

Alright, after a lot of Googling and reading, I've decided I'm going to tear it back down and set the timing again. I don't think I'll have replace any of the gaskets or O rings... ill just reuse the brand new stuff that's I just put in there. I THINK that will solve my knock sensor and "P" codes.

Now my other issue is the C1422 code, I'm SURE there is nothing wrong with the master cylinder. I didn't (that I know of) mess with anything brake related. So this one totally puzzles me. I'm wondering if I pulled something loose when trying to pull the wiring harness out of my way. I guess all I can do is when I break it back down... check every wire connection that I can see.