Potential Gas Tank Sabotage - 2002 Prerunner Turns Over but Won't Start

I didn't know what the proper term was, but what I meant by the money pin is the pin that provides the power to the device, like the starter. I did command the relays. I took a test lead with alligator clips and used the car's battery to provide the power to pin 1 and pin 2 to bring in the contact, which clicked. Then I put my meter on the other two pins and got resistance, when it was open before I put power to the relay. So, I figure the 3 relays I tested worked. I got one of those light testers, and will test the relay circuits in the vehicle. Test for ground of each of the 3 or so circuits after that. After I do that I'm gonna check out the wiring to the gas tank, just to make sure I can confirm the pump I just put in is working.

 

did you cut the filter open it see what was in it?
I'm thinking lime might have eaten through it

 

Yeah, I believe the ground circuit for the C/O relay is control by the ECM.
So keep that in mind. The EFI isn’t but the control side power is controlled by the ECM.

I would probably go to the fuel pump and check there. But that probably isn’t too easy.
Or pull the C/O relay and check for power to the correct pins.

Still wish Toyota gave us a better way to check fuel pressure.
You need a banjo adapter on the 5VZ iirc.

 

I did not cut it open, but I do still have it. I replaced the fuel filter when I cleaned the tank and replace the fuel pump. The gas that poured out of it looked pretty normal. It's not going to do anything to get the truck running, but I would like to try to figure out what actually happened.

 

if the lime ate holes in the filter you could have blocked injectors

 

Yeah, I really have no idea what I'm doing, and am piecemealing different videos and what I'm getting from the service manual. I'm almost tempted to disconnect the new fuel filter I just installed, turn over the engine, and see if fuel squirts out of the hose where the filter was. Kind of caveman, but I don't know enough to test the fuel pump without dropping the tank and taking it out. I believe I can jump a relay, manually starting the pump and test it that way, but I don't want to damage anything if I do it wrong. Maybe one of the punk kids snipped a wire that I never noticed when I dropped the tank and replaced the pump. So the caveman test I just mentioned may save me from dropping the tank again. That was a total pain in the ass!

 

That’s an option. Just remember that gas is volatile and static electricity is real. (or any electrical spark)
There’s a reason I didn’t mention that method, but you did
I mostly didn’t mention it because I didn’t want to be the one to give you the idea. I’d feel bad if you caught yourself or the truck on fire.

 

What makes you think there's lime in the gas? Do you mean lime from the Quikrete, or from the fruit? That's an interesting take, which is definitely plausible. That's kind of where I'm at now, replacing the fuel injectors with a rebuild kit from MotorWest. I'm halfway through an instruction video from Timmy the Toolman, which lists the parts I'll need and the torque spec for each nut and bolt. I've done a ton of repairs on my 3rd gen 4Runner by watching Timmy's videos, and the motor in the 1st gen Tacoma Prerunner is the same as the 3rd gen 4Runner. The only thing that's stopped me from ordering everything is the fear that when I replace the fuel injectors, spark plugs, and wires, that it won't work and I'll be crushed like I was when it didn't start after I replaced the fuel pump and filter.

So, while I have no clue what I'm doing, I can follow instruction well, and videos like the ones from Timmy and Sean have saved me tons making my own quality repairs! but if I need to figure out the problem, like I'm doing now, I think I'm chasing my tail. Lol! Thanks for the suggestions!

 

The engine needs 3 things to run, fuel, heat(spark) and air, check the basics, to eliminate one system to the next it’s all about breaking down each component, so you know which to focus on. I always find it easier to step back and keep it simple at times, it’s easy to focus on one thing and forget about the other, just my two cents

 

Ha ha, thanks man! I saw someone suggest that they were going to do that, in one of the threads I read before I started my thread. I live somewhat near the California Central Coast, so not much static electricity, but there is always a spark risk if you're not careful. I do appreciate and will heed the warning. Thanks!

 

Wise council, thank you! I have read about the 3 things many times in this adventure trying to fix this truck. There is definitely something to be said about taking a step back and focusing on one step at a time. Thanks!

 

from the Quikrete
lime is nasty stuff given the right conditions

 

Since we’re still operating off the assumption that the fuel incident was the cause of the problem.
I’m still going to recommend you check fuel pressure first.

Have you checked for spark? I’m going to assume it is fine.
But it’s not hard to check. And definitely worth testing.

 

I'd almost bet that there was something put into the tank that's keeping this from running...but if you want to eliminate another possible fuel-related problem pick up a set of noid lights. These will tell you if the ECU is sending signal to each injector.

 

I have not checked for spark. Would I simply remove a spark plug, reconnect the wire, and then turn over the engine looking for a spark on the plug?

 

Yes, doing it that way checks the coil and plug at the same time.
The plug needs to be touching the engine block. (It needs a ground)
You can rest the portion with the threads on the block/manifold.

 

Yes, I would tend to agree. I was probably being a little over optimistic thinking that because he ran out of gas a lot, and always drove around on an empty tank, that he fried the fuel pump. It was a repair I knew I could make. Like previously stated, I think I can make any repair with the proper instruction, but figuring out which repair needs to be made is where my troubleshooting skills are lacking. Since I've already replaced the fuel pump I don't want the slap in the face of testing the one I pulled from the gas tank, to find that it still works. Lol! However, I do want to learn more, and find out what has actually failed, or is preventing the car from starting, so I might test it. Same with the fuel filter. Cutting it open isn't going to fix my truck, but if it sheds light that the filter media has been eaten away, then I'll probably move to the injectors. I am learning some good stuff, though! Thanks for the help!

 

Could he extend the low pressure fuel return away from the truck, place clean container on the ground and crank to pump some fuel out? I think he could easily find a nipple or similar at the home center and some tubing. Seems to me would be as safe as filling a container at the gas station.

I hate to see him put new injectors in and ruin them due to something caustic in the fuel. I would probably send the injectors out for cleaning, if ruined they might not even charge you. I had a bad injector and I think I paid $250 ea 10 years ago.

I think there is a banjo adapter for pressure testing the 5VZE on Amazon, I looked into that once but probably have to remove intake to do that and then possibly do it again to remove it - a lot of work.

 

I didn't know what a noid light was, so I just looked. Without going out and looking at the truck, can I easily access the fuel injector plugs without starting to peel things back and remove the plenums?

 

I did drop the tank, empty it and clean it, before I put in the new fuel pump. I also replaced the fuel filter and put in around 3 gallons of new gas. I have not done anything to clean out or flush the fuel lines, but have turned the engine over several times trying to start the truck. I would hope that the bad gas has already made its way through the system, and new (remanufactured) injectors would get ruined, but "hope" can probably get me in more trouble. I would think that the fuel pressure regulator wouldn't be very expensive, so I was thinking about replacing that for good measure, if I replace the fuel injectors, which is what I'm leaning towards now. Does that sound like a good idea, or unnecessary, or won't really make a difference? Looks like I can get a remanufactured set of 6 injectors from AutoWest for around $250.00, so that was the route I was planning. But yes, I certainly don't want to get the reman injectors and promptly ruin them.