Potential Gas Tank Sabotage - 2002 Prerunner Turns Over but Won't Start

Unfortunately, no. I had a couple of other things leapfrog ahead of this in regards of importance. Luckily, while a luxury, this truck is not needed, so it can sit in the backyard until I get back to it. I'm equally bummed out and disappointed that what I've done to date hasn't got it running again. I'll most definitely update the thread as news develops. Thanks for the nudge, though!

 

I didn't want to say anything when you posted that picture earlier for fear of you over imbibing on spirits....but it looks like your valves were hit with water or something containing moisture and rusted. Not saying this will prevent it from starting/running but it can't be good. The ones that were open when rusted might not be closing. Perhaps a compression test is in order.

 

Yes, they definitely didn't look good. I will do a compression test among a couple other things I want to try before I start ripping things apart.

 

@DWero any news to report??

 

Have you checked the fuse that is connected to you distributor and igniter? My 2.7 has a 30 amp fuse for the distributor, igniter and fuel pump. It kept blowing and turned out to be a bad condenser in my distributor.

 

Yeah, unfortunately, with this truck no longer a daily driver it got pushed aside while I worked on a new (used) '99 4Runner Limited for my daughter. With the looks of the inside of the engine/valves, I may throw in the towel and take it to a motor shop. As mentioned a few times in this thread, I don't think there is a repair I can't do on this truck, if I'm told what repair to do. However, with my troubleshooting skills being pretty nonexistent, I need to be told what to do. I still probably will perform a compression test, for curiosity sake, and I will check out the fuse Falkor1 suggested, but know I checked fuses and tested relay operation at the beginning of this project. I may still have a look at the ignition relay and fuses, which I think is what Falkor1 suggested, but worth another look. This is too nice of a truck to dump, especially since it was deceased father in-law's truck, so I will get it running again some day... it just depends on whether I fix it or pay someone to do it for me. Thanks again for all of the feedback and suggestions! Not throwing in the towel yet, but pretty close.

 

Don't give up!
The more you learn the more you can do -- and the more you do the more you learn --
-- or something like that...

Seriously, when I find myself muddled I try to step back, clear my head and start again at the beginning.
Verify 100% that you have the 3 basic requirements to run:
Compression
Spark
Fuel

Once you figure out which one is missing the direction will become clearer. There are plenty of folks here familiar with that engine (not me unfortunately) to give you advice when you find out which one is missing.

To do a compression test use the following steps:

1) insure the battery is fully charged
2) disable fuel - pull fuel pump fuse or relay
3) disable ignition - should be a fuse
4) remove all spark plugs
5) block throttle wide open
6) crank engine approximately the same number of times for each cylinder

Record the readings, as a general rule the pressure should be around 130 - 160 psi and the lowest should be within 10% of the highest.
If you have a cylinder that is suspiciously low pump a squirt or two of engine oil in the cylinder and test it again, if the reading stays about the same it usually indicates a valve problem, if it rises the rings are suspect.
Two cylinders adjacent with identical low readings will usually be a blown head gasket.

You are also doing some supplemental troubleshooting as you do the test -- the engine should crank about the same for each cylinder as you do the test, if one sounds different than the rest it will catch your ear.

I had an old Jeep V8 suddenly start running rough years ago, in doing a compression test I found one cylinder with zero compression and when it stopped cranking I could hear a sucking noise.
I removed the valve cover and found a broken rocker arm on the intake valve, easy fix.

 

Not a bad idea, specifically the clearing of the mind and then retracing..helped me with a few real buggers.

 

I always taught the kids at work when faced with an overwhelming problem (wiring for example) to "make it modular".

Do the parts of the job that you understand and are comfortable with first, ground wires for example, this 1) gets you feeling more comfortable doing the work 2) eliminates some of the confusing visual clutter.

As you chip away at the easier jobs the hard ones should become clearer.

 

Failure is just a step toward success.

 

i doubt those valves will hold compression for long...the rust is going to start chipping off

 

Thanks for the continued replies and support! Yes, I've done many things where stepping away, even if for 10 minutes, makes a world of difference. For instance, I just replaced the rear upper and lower control arm bushings (among lots of other repairs/job) on the '99 4Runner Limited I recently got for my daughter. I had done this same job on my '97 4Runner, so I had a little experience at it. Well, I had the hardest time getting the rear axle to move the way I wanted to enable me to extract the bolts without jacking up the threads. For each side I had to move the axle forward and backwards, which I don't recall having to do on the '97. I swear I spent more time with strap placement than I did making the actual repair. Regardless, I got stuck and could not get the lower control arm nut out on the passenger side. I went inside, took a 10 minute break, and bam! Got the axle to move the direction I wanted and got the bolt out in 5 minutes.

So let's say the compression test is not good, or the valves are too rusty/jacked up? Then what? That's why I'm almost resigned to the fact that the compression test won't go well, and thinking ahead to the next step... but I'll still check it first, as it will be a great lesson. Thanks again guys!

 

Where I used to live, fuel being siphoned from vehicles was a huge problem so a bunch of us started leaving a very sugary 5L jerry can in the bed of the truck, unlocked and just begging to be stolen.

 

Pull cylinder heads and inspect pistons and bore. Have cylinder heads rebuilt, exchange for reconditioned heads or used heads. Assuming bores and pistons look ok. Or replace engine with rebuilt or used.

 

I would go with a leakdown test after a bad compression test and before pulling things apart. That would give you an idea of what to expect.

 

Not sure if this is linked yet but: How to Clean Out the ENTIRE Fuel System (Vandalized with Sugar in Gas Tank) - YouTube

 

Good point. I missed that step.

 

Ha ha, I actually did watch this video. Thanks for posting it, though.

 

I don't know what a leakdown test is, but I'll look into it. Thanks!

 

@DWero
Any progress to report?