Power door locks not working at all

Exactly.

So since the remote doesn't work and the power door lock switches don't work, hopefully he's checked the fuse already, then it has to either be the wiring or the relays inside the brain.

As far as the wiring goes do you have rats or mice there OP? Any previous accidents on the truck? Rust issues?

You can always install aftermarket relays in the truck to take the place of that bcu.

 

If you have to replace the door lock actuators. Their extremely easy to replace. I had to do both front ones.

 

Not that I know of. I'll try my best to try and find someone that can help me though.

I will give this a shot tomorrow and will keep you updated!

 

The weather has been really bad here the past two days so I going to try to do it tomorrow if the weather corporates.

 

I just tried this and verified the switches work doing the continuity test. I wasn’t able to do the test light to the blue/white wire because I don’t have one.

Since the switches work does that mean it is either the BCU or the door actuators?

 

No..now you could make a jumper wires and actuate the locks without the switch. (to test)

 

Then the switch is good.

Do a continuity test from white/black to ground. If the white/black is a good ground I would personally check any 1 of the door lock actuators. You can do that by sending +12v to one wire and ground to the second wire of the actuator. It doesn't matter which wire gets +12v or which wire gets ground. The actuators pair of wires (blue/red and blue/black) are in a plug that @caribe makiara posted above, that connector in the picture looks like it's in the door. You can do that with T taps to avoid cutting anything if you want to, make sure you disconnect the side of the plug that comes from the bcu. You can also make temporary test connectors out of female or male 1/8" spade connectors depending on which end of a plug you're looking at. The main concern is to make sure you're sending the power to the actuator and not to the bcu. The actuator should move instantly.

I seriously doubt all of the actuators are bad but it is possible.

 

I was thinking the same thing about all 4 actuators going bad at the same time. It is very unlikely. I will try doing this experiment this weekend when I have some free time. Thank you for your help and I'll keep you updated.

 

It's called Process of Elimination...

 

I tried testing the door actuator (front right door) and it worked. So I think that means that all of them are probably good. Does that just leave the BCU to be the problem?
Thank you in advance

 

It narrows it down to only 3 possible failure points.
1. A blown power fuse.
2. The wiring. If there isn't a rat problem where you live it would be doubtful that rats chewed up the wiring. A previous accident can damage a wiring harness and it can take years to show up but if it hasn't had any major accidents then that wouldn't be possible. Rust eats away metal and will leave sharp edges that can tear up a wiring harness but if it doesn't have serious rust issues that wouldn't be possible either.
3. A bad bcu.

You can rewire the power door lock circuit and still use the factory power door lock switches, actuators, and keyless entry/alarm.

Here's a basic diagram of how that's wired: (make sure the +12 volt wire is fused, a 20 amp fuse should be enough)

The most difficult part of the job will be locating a plug that has all of the door lock actuator wires in the same plug/location. Maybe @caribe makaira can locate that plug, idk. All of the actuators might be already tied together, idk. You'll need to disconnect the bcu side from the actuators wires in order for this to work.

Your keyless entry/alarm sends a ground pulse to the power door lock switch already, so if you get the power door lock switch to work the actuators the keyless entry/alarm will work as well without additional connections (I checked it on my Tacoma).

You will be using aftermarket relays. I prefer Bosch, Potter And Brumfield, and DEI relays.

Always mount this style of relay vertically, making the terminals pointing down. They are water resistant but not water proof.

I'll be back in a few minutes...

 

There is a switch in the driver's door lock cylinder (where the key goes into the door) that activates power lock and power unlock so if you want that to work you'll need to hook that up in parallel to the relays where the power door lock switches hook up.


Verify all of your wires with your meter as you hook them up. There's several different purple wires in there.

 

Have you checked for voltage at both sides of the 20A DR LCK fuse?

 

Wow. Thank you for all that information. It seems like a great way to fix my problem instead of buying a BCU. One thing I don’t understand is how would the door locks get the signal from the remote if I disconnect the plug from the BCU.

Also I don’t have a rat problem or been in an accident so the wiring is most likely not the problem.

 

No I have not but I will tonight when it gets a little cooler and will let you know what I find out.

 

It’s almost certainly the door lock actuators. Very common problem across several Toyota platforms.

There are several threads Detailing replacement or cleaning of the actuator motors that are the cause of the issue.

 

Fuse
1 = from battery
2 = to door lock circuit

 

Yikes, that should have been the first task....

 

His right front actuator is good and still doesn't work.

 

Thank you to all that have helped me try and figure this problem out. It has been a great learning experience for me. I haven't decided yet but I'm either going to buy a used BCU off eBay or at a junkyard that will hopefully fix my problem or use DG92071's method of wiring to fix it.

Thank you for all the help again.