Power issues since botched water crossing

eBay.

Google shopping. You can typically obtain them for cheaper then the dealer usually charges for them.

Your local parts stores may also stock Denso air fuel ratio sensors as well, check locally. They are pricier then standard oxygen sensors. When you replace them, make sure that they are Denso brand only. If you use something like Bosch, or other generic brands, you run the risk of throwing other codes and creating other odd running issues that will end up making you chase your tail.

I have seen it happen too many times before.

 

Ill check for Denso's tomorrow locally. I guess at this point I might as well keep my appointment to check the fuel pressure anyway, then all bases have been covered. I might not have the opportunity to check it later without taking it into a dealer. I should have time to swap them out this weekend.

Thanks again for all your help. I REALLY appreciate it.

 

No problem bud.

Just here to help

 

Rockauto.com
I bought tons of denso parts for my 1st gen there. Denso stuff from there would be cheaper then the equivalent auto store brand locally. They have amazing customer service and offer a 5% discount to the forum.

 

hope those afr sensor do the trick

 

Well my plot thickens.

So I brought the truck into a friends shop. He has a Dyno tuning shop and specializing in EFI, mostly for swaps in ricers but the idea is the same. (He did tell me about a Long Travel twin turbo taco build they did though want to see this)

On the drive in, I was able to replicate my stuttering several times. He put it on the Dyno and put a load on it.

He ran through most of the things I had gone through already. AFR Sensors, Pump Resistor, Relay and what I couldn't, fuel Pressure.

Fuel pressure was 43 psi and dropped 2 psi under heavy load. Checked AFR sensors using his much more complex scanner and told me they are completely fine, 02 sensors as well. He thinks my scanner tool is giving erroneous data under WOT as some values on the screen freeze when 5v is displayed on my scanner. Not sure why. Either way, his tools show they both respond correctly when he manually changes fuel trims on his scanner. (And on the dyno)

Now here is the kicker. He messed around with the truck on the Dyno and on the pavement, but could not replicate my problem. I drove down to the shop and literally drove the hell out of the truck, and now for the life of me, I cannot replicate it either. WTF. I am happy it is running 100%, maybe all the redlining on the dyno pushed a blockage through or dried out water somewhere, but I don't like that I have not found a resolution.

Cleared the DTCs and will wait and see if they come back.

I am almost out of fuel, I am dropping the tank this weekend to inspect the fuel filter anyway. I also picked up a starter this morning, solenoid is definitely sticky when cold, time to go.

 

Geez man..

Well it's a good thing that it is running well again. It is not very far outside the realm of possibility that water got into the tank. I have mixed gas with water before, and water typically settles while the gas rises to the top. Since you are running out it is possible you are killing the water that was left of the water in the tank. My suggestion is kill what you had on there and then refill and you should be good. Then just run the truck for a while and see what you got going on.

 

I think you meant water sits on the bottom. No?

 

Yeah. Sorry, I was typing as I just woke up, and my thinking was all out of whack.

 

I forgot that I had to replace my starter. So, yes, the starter doesn't like being under water.

 

Ok, well Starter is replaced and fuel issue seems to have completely disappeared. Truck is back together and running fantastic, but I did come across another problem.

I dropped the tank this weekend and drained all remaining fuel and cleaned the fuel pump sock. No signs of water in the tank. Added about 2.5 gal of fuel via Jerry can to get to gas station.

At the gas station, the pump now clicks off constantly unless pumping very slow.

This is the first time I have filled since my incident, so I am not sure if it is related to me dropping the tank or something else.

Something is creating enough back pressure in the tank that the pump is clicking off. This was never an issue before. I am not sure if it is a vent tube issue or a evap system thing. In the few things I have read, I read about a refuelling valve that can rupture...

Suggestions to troubleshoot?

 

Start by verifying all connections and hoses that were removed or moved when you dropped the tank. Look specifically for anything pinched or hooked up wrong.

I've never messed with the evap on these trucks, my first step would be to find a manual or diagram to get an understanding of how it's setup. Hopefully someone can share one.

 

I'd bet money that you kinked a vent tube or clogged a vent while reinstalling the tank.

 

Am I able to inspect the charcoal filter or is it servicable?

I thought about water getting into the evap system, but I thought the entire point of the evap system is to remain 100% sealed so gas vapor cannot escape. I know if a leak is detected by the vacuum pump, it throws the CEL.

The filler neck vent is pretty simple, only one quick connect where the filler neck attaches to the tank. Am I correct in assuming it wouldnt hurt anything to take apart that connection and shoot air in both directions and I should have no restrictions?

 

try it out. easier than dropping the tank again.

 

Just to reiterate what the other guys said the problem you are experiencing is due to your EVAP system getting submerged. I would check the Cannister first and if that looks ok I would move on to your solenoids because it is possible you may have submerged them when you did your water crossing. Check your lines too and make sure that you didn't kink any, that will restrict air flow and breathability of the EVAP system which will cause the pump to keep shutting off like that.

 

Also, there is no easy way to inspect the cannister. They are typically sealed, the charcoal element contained within is non serviceable. Check to see what electronics are down there. If you have a power probe, I would attempt to pull off the electronics and manually attempt to power them up, all of this of course after you have inspected to make sure the lines are not kinked and the cannister does not appear to have been affected by the water crossing.

 

I cannot be a sealed system, you are pulling fuel out and something has to replace the area.

 

This could be, but the Most Likely culprit would be the hose between the valve and the tank is pinched when he reinstalled the tank. Looking at the diagram you posted above.