Power sliding rear window install

I bought a Sienna switch. Not sure how to wire it. I have all the parts for install but other things going on. Stuff is sitting on my workbench.

 

I used a DPDT on/on switch and put it in the cubby just to the right of the steering wheel, when I hold it to the right, the window slides right, when its held to the left, the window slides left, you want a switch that's gonna auto return, not one that stays in the right or left position, hope that makes since.

 

I’ll be doing this soon hopefully I can get a bracket from Garrett. Looking forward to picking some of your brains

 

@Poitrasbh "Note: Another Dodge motor: 2009-14 Ram Rear Window regulator back Glass 59464AA Quote: ’’I’ve recently found a regulator assembly for a GMC rear window that looks quite a better fit, at least from pictures. It’s ACDelco part 25980205. IT has, what appear to be, long cables along with the cable guides already attached’’

do you think this option is better? or should i just stick with the honda ridgline and follow the writeup

@christian06 do you have those clamps still you are willing to send over?

 

The RAM window motor may work but I didn't go that way due to cost. I finished this mod earlier this summer and I wrote up some lessons learned from the experience. Basically just find a cheap window motor from a really small domestic/German car and use bicycle cable.


Parts

• Kyle Garrett's (@kgarrett11 on TacomaWorld) Bracket - $49
• OEM Switch - 84810-0C090 - $72
• OEM Switch Harness - 90980-12550 - $6
  • Normally requires JPN 82998-24290 pins but I had some generic ones floating about from Arduino projects
• Power Window Regulator Front LH Chevy GMC Cadillac w/ Motor - $22
  • In hindsight I should have used the RH motor (see below)
• Bicycle Brake Cables (Amazon:
  $13 B07GCK7BG1 YAKAMOZ 2-in-1 Universal Bike Bicycle Shift Derailleur Cable & Brake Cable Housing Replacement Kit for Moutain Road Bike Cycling Repairing
  B07GCK7BG1)- $20 (two packs, I goofed the first set)
• Bicycle Cable Adjusters (Amazon: B07KG42C3R) - $8
• 6mm Bolts/Nuts - $5
• 2x12V Relays - $5
• Misc Wire/Connectors/Aluminum/Tape/Band-aids
  Total ~ $188

Alternatives Considered

• Honda Ridgeline Motor & Regulator - $110
  • VERY popular, but also appears to require many modifications to implement, e.g., cutting the Tacoma rear supports, modifying the regulator, fabricating parts, etc.
• GMC Sierra Rear Window Motor (#23490454) & Regulator (#25980205) - $200
  • This was my preference but I couldn't find reliable info on eBay if the $80-100 kits included a motor (text said yes, pictures implied no). All vendors appear to use the same stock photos of the regulator and weren't able to confirm beyond "we think it comes with both regulator and motor"
• Dodge Ram Rear Window Motor & Regulator (#68157026AD)- $100
  • Another contender, did not try due to cost at the time
• OEM Regulator (Tacoma 69088-04010, Tundra (69088-0C010) and Motor (Tacoma 85710-0C110, Tundra 85710-0C080) - $40 + $275
  • Tundra is almost exactly the same, just with longer cables
  • The regulator is actually cheap but "requires" the expensive OEM motor
  • I believe the regulator takes a square drive, and I did see some Mitsubishi motors also with square drives and they may work, too. Unfortunately I don't have any measurements to confirm that.

Lessons Learned

• This was a crash course in pull/pull cables and how the internal cable is really pushing against the housing. My initial perception during planning was that the housing was ancillary and didn't matter as much, oh how I was wrong. Implementation threw that perception away. Somehow I neglected to re-read Sheldon's Bike blog before starting this process.
• The bicycle cables were much easier to work with, I may have spent 8 hours winding and re-winding the GM window cables to no luck. Bicycle cables, being fresh and never wound were much easier to work with initially. However, it still took me a ridiculous amount of time to "tune" the cables and get the right level of tension in place.
  • Keep the housing immobile. I added some U-nuts to the cable to keep it from moving around on me. The ferruled ends of the cables are the true "bump" stops and need to be in the right spots.
    
• Japanese manufacturers have mostly converted to scissor lift windows, domestics still appear to favor cable driven.
  • I spent a lot of time looking for cable driven motors that appeared to come with adequate length cable, e.g., large BOF GM SUVs.
  • After I narrowed it to the Tahoe/Suburban motor I randomly picked the LH motor not thinking much of it, but after attempting to get it in place the RH may have worked better since the LH has the spool facing the wall of the truck making adjustments harder.
  • The GM motor is actually square drive with the square being 1cm x 1cm. My guess is the OEM Tacoma regulator is probably 1.5x1.5.
    

 

I believe i do, when I get home on Saturday I'll look for them.

 

hey all, finally got all my parts going to give it a lookover this weekend. anyone willing to allow me to text them if i run into in a snags? thanks

 

Send me a pm for my number, I'd be glad to help out

 

Thanks for all the info and pictures.... have the Siena switch and I don’t think I wired it correctly, I have everything else hooked up with the springs tensioned.

So hopefully I’ll get the switch sorted out

 

I’d really appreciate it if you would post up how to wire that switch when you’re done. I also have the Siena switch and don’t know how to wire it. Not knowing has added to my procrastinating doing my install. Tia.

 

Like this but didn’t work for me the first try

 

@Toy4me so I got it hooked up and sliding except it popped out of the bracket so I didn’t have it right enough. The main thing is I had the switch opposite of the picture. If you turn the picture of his switch upside down that is the correct order

 

Finally got around to finishing this mod! Thanks for all the info!

 

@Jonny Quest

• This was a crash course in pull/pull cables and how the internal cable is really pushing against the housing. My initial perception during planning was that the housing was ancillary and didn't matter as much, oh how I was wrong. Implementation threw that perception away. Somehow I neglected to re-read Sheldon's Bike blog before starting this process

I am losing my mind trying to figure this out, read through a handful of threads with multiple members mentioning how simple this is but this thread has the most recent activity.

Cables seem to be at nearly the correct length plus/minus an inch and I have zip ties securing them to the rear panel to minimize slack. I don't have cable housings running the entire length of the cable up to the spool mount, but I do have zip ties maintaining tension at the spool mount. Regulator is mounted to prevent any movement. The motor runs fine in one direction all the way to the limit, but when I reverse the cable jumps the spool. Any ideas? Do I need to run cable housing the entire length of the cable?

 

Are you using bicycle cable tensioners? I ended up doing it without the zip ties honestly. I pulled the cable until the spring was tight. Cut the cable that length and inserted it.

 

Are u using the ridgeline regulator?

 

@bwrapped I have cable ferrules on the window bracket and a similar cable end that fastens with a setscrew on the spool end. Where did you take your measurement, from cable end to end?

 

@christian06 F-150

 

@bwrapped @christian06 Are either of you able to snap some photos of your install? I feel like this would be the easiest way for me to tell if something is off.