Power sliding window mod info thread

@caribe makaira Do you know where the window relays are located? Got the regulator figured out and mounted and have been sitting on this switch for a while, just need to wire it but am stuck because I can't find the relays.

 

You must add them (x2)

 

Thanks for the help, I feel like a moron lol

 

You’ll need two 5-pin relays wired specifically for DC motor forward/reverse. Schematics are readily available on the net.

 

@bagleboy I'll have the relays tomorrow morning, good looking out. Did you mount them closer to the switch or the regulator? Did you run into any issues or do you have any other helpful tips?

 

On the net? you did not read this Thread at all...

 

I did. Problem is I read too many other threads as well. Glad I could lighten your day.

 

Why the f have I not found this until now.....???!!!? Do you know how long I've been looking for a source on those pins!?

 

Shipping is the deal killer...

 

it was 6 US dollars to ship. And those guys took the time out of their day to email and make sure these were the correct pins, and then they triple enveloped and taped them all together to make sure they made it from Japan to Canada, totally worth it.

 

save yourself some aggravation and buy the repair wire instead of the pin. Those pins are the biggest pains in the ass to deal with and I even have the right crimpers. I had the right gauge wire but the casing around the wire was to thick. I ordered double the amount of pins I needed and ended up with just enough by the time I got them right.

 

You mean the OEM repair wire? Is this so all you have to do is splice instead of crimp and pin the connectors?

 

Doesn’t really matter other than that most relays aren’t well sealed and turn to snot in the engine bay. Under the center console storage is one place to put them but there’s also plenty of space on top of the instrument cluster or right by the motor. The best choice really depends on where you want the switch to be. The logical place is in the drivers armrest with the rest of the window controls but getting the wire out the door is a pain but that’s what I did. 3rd gens the switch is left of the steering wheel so that obviously works. From there route the wires under the carpet edge and jamb sill(there’s a channel in the plastic) to the relays in the rear cab panel(I hate working under the dash so the extra wire is worth it). You can either run one power wire from the battery to both relays and ground the relays to the body nearby or run both power/ground from the battery. I ran #10 wire to a sub panel and ground buss under the center console so all my in cab power comes from there and it’s relatively easy to fish from there to the back along the hump with the back seats out. I limit my use of the firewall grommet to switch wires only and since there’s already a grommet under the drivers seat I added another there to get my power lines into the cab. I’m not fussy about drilling holes since I’m planning on keeping it but I do hit them with cold galvanizing paint and seal the grommets. An alternative to drilling would be to use an add-a-fuse from the in-cab fuse panel via one of the lower rated fuse slots since power is shared to both circuits from the same set of terminals. Direction matters on add-a-fuses, installed backwards only one circuit will work with the other fuse removed. Installed properly both circuits have power with the other fuse removed.

If your switch is on the left and you get power from the in-cab fuse panel your wires will already be close together(there’s also a ground lug behind the drivers kick panel) and you can bundle them all together in some expandable wire loom back to the relays.

 

Correct. With the pins, you need the special crimp tool and it definitely looks like a PITA if you don't have everything lined up or in the right spot when you crimp. The repair wire is a pigtail basically that you butt connect or solder and heat shrink with the pin already crimped. You still need to insert the pin into the correct location of the plug.

 

Correct

 

Easy... Take the 2 relays and connect their 87a terminals together. Connect them to ground. This is the motor- so use a heavy enough wire for the motor.

Do the same with terminals 87, except this is the motor+ so this gets fused power. Same rules for wires size.

Terminal 30 on both relays are motor + and -.

Terminals 85& 86 are the coil. Here, you have a choice in either switching 12 volts or switching ground. Looking at the pinout for the sienna switch, it should work either way. So either run window switch power, great idea @caribe makaira to terminal 86 on both relays and wire the sienna switch according to the drawing. Or ground terminal 85 on both relays with terminal 87a and run window switch power through the sienna switch to terminals 86.

 

@bagleboy @Larzzzz Thanks for the info. Got the switch, motor, relays, and add-a-fuse set up but no deals. I am using the OEM 3rd gen Tacoma/Tundra switch and have no idea if it's SPDT or DPDT and have no idea how that affects the wiring--I'm not great with electrical work. Which switch are you guys using?

 

You have to use a DPDT switch, not sure what the OEM is,

 

Not positive but I think if you use 5-pin relays an spdt switch works but without relays a high current(20A) dpdt switch is needed. The two 5-pin relays do the work of the dpdt. Like this. https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=Awr9Hr67D45elwMA_66InIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIzNWJpbWgyBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZANiYjRmMzA4MWZhMGE1NjIzNzEzZGQ4YWFjOWJlY2U5NgRncG9zAzEwBGl0A2Jpbmc-?back=https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=reversing+motor+wiring&fr=iphone&tab=organic&ri=10&w=709&h=1152&imgurl=www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/C41_motor_reverse_relays_spdt.gif&rurl=https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90096&size=10.4KB&name=controlling+linear+actuator+w/&p=reversing+motor+wiring&oid=bb4f3081fa0a5623713dd8aac9bece96&fr2=&fr=iphone&tt=controlling+linear+actuator+w/&b=0&ni=56&no=10&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=11udulr5p&sigb=132j4lju8&sigi=126bs70vd&sigt=10uip74q9&sign=10uip74q9&.crumb=A0m4uyo2NMS&fr=iphone

 

The 3rd gen switch was unknown to me at the time I got my switch. With 5-pin relays it’s just a 3-pin rocker switch with center off. An illuminated dpdt switch might have 8-pins or 6-pins. It depends on whether the crossover is wired internally or not. The basic difference between the two is on an spst one terminal will connect to either of two others and a dpdt two pins will connect to two others at the same time. If there’s no internal crossover then there will be 4 output terminals. If the crossover is internal then instead of 4 output pins there are only two. The extra two pins are illumination power/ground.