Power sliding window mod info thread

thanks. I dont know the amp draw of the motor... maybe it is listed in the details on TIS?

 

Is there a reason why this stock Tundra/ tacoma sliding window switch is harder to wire up that say the stock Sienna window switch?

 

if I had to guess I would say the sienna switch is a DPDT switch, the Tacoma one is not but I really don't know for certain

 

Man-o-man.....My $25.00 Impala window motor runs on a fused 10 amp circuit, run to a $8.00 DPDT toggle, without a relay. I know, I know...If there had been a problem with the circuit, I would have added a relay, but, for over a year, none. Motor runs to limits and stops, both ways. Battery feed wire to the switch is 14ga., from aux fuse circuit under the hood.

 

but its not OEM bro hahahaha

 

here is the diagram with the proper pinouts for the relays you need to use.

Do not switch wires on pins 87 and 30, you will cause an instant short to ground.

 

could have used this a week ago! hahaha would have saved us a lot of head scratching lol a lot fancier then the hand drawn one on the last page that's for sure ahaha

just a quick question tho. how come purple needs to be a switched source? why does purple need a 30amp fuse, its only energizing the coil in the relay, wouldn't imagine that drawing very much amperage. and last question haha how come purple and red require separate lines? could u not just tap them all off one main line? they would, in theory, both be coming from the battery anyways

 

In short, I just went off the factory diagram - but it doesn't have to be 30a fuse feeding the switch. a switched source (purple wire) will be up to the end users preference. keeps the window from being operated when the vehicle is completely off.

the factory has a third relay in the mix - not really required for the ones adding on to an older truck.

 

"but its not OEM bro hahahaha"

You're right "bro".... but my window was working, the same day my install was finished, and still is, for $100.00 bucks total - LOL

 

you got me there I haven't even bought anything to start this mod hahaha just like staying in the loop cuz I will want to do it eventually

 

Fergyz is a hero!

 

@Up2NoGood @Bocsy44 Unfortunately it looks like Toyota tweaked those plastic bins for the 3rd Gens.

You can actually see where they tweaked it after comparing the pic @Citadel provided of his bins to mines.
Pictured is the bins that I took out on my 15. See where the anchor point symbols are(circled in red) that portion of the bin is flat meaning it would sit flush against the back metal panel.



Where the 3rd Gens plastic bin has a slight hump to it to accommodate for that motor set up as pictured below. Now I wanna know if those bins would fit on a 2nd Gen, by looking at it, it seems like it would but not 100% sure. I'll be on the hunt locally since Tacoma owners seem to upgrade their sound system and they remove this bins to accommodate for those speaker box.

Yes sir. Worst case scenario for me is to order some from Fastenal, unless someone knows where I could get some, maybe HD or Lowes?

Any chance of taking a closer pic on this, appreciated. Zooming in just makes everything blurry.

Awesome, thanks a lot for the input on the wiring @fergyz

 

Storage plastic bins on a 2016. That hump is more prominent looking at clearer pictures of it. Looking at it, it might just fit 2nd Gens since I don't see any major changes.

 

A sliding rear window should have been a factory option

 

Are the latches/ hooks in the same place for the gen 2 as the gen 3?

 

Seems like it. Toyota kept everything the same and just tweaked some.

 

Any of you guys tried to wire the switch up yet?
Also check out the image attached of the relays I will be using.
Does it matter that the pins on the relay instructions don't match up with the guidance above from @fergyz ?

 

Ignore what's on that sheet of paper besides the actual pin # designations and wire it like the diagram fergyz posted. Terminals are designated the same for all these generic 5 pin relays, but the way you can wire them up can change based on application.

 

I cant read what the writing says but I'm with JdevTac on this one. If you just focus on the relay itself it matches up. Look at the little diagram of the inside components of the relay, bottom left. 85 and 86 is ur coil Pin 86 from switch and 85 ground which matches. 87A is normally closed to Pin 30, so its important that 87A is a Ground and 30 goes to your motor. then 87 is your fused +12v.

 

I agree with @JdevTac & @Bocsy44 - You can wire up a relay a few different ways, but in this case, it has to be a fairly specific. Most aftermarket lighting harnesses use a 4pin relay setup. The fifth wire (87a) would be an unconnected "live" wire in those setups and is not needed or warranted. The biggest thing to pay attention to is the actual pin numbers on the bottom of the relay (if there). The diagram that was provided by the vendor/Mfg is a fairly standard diagram.

As long as you match wires to the specific pins laid out earlier, you're golden.

hope this doesn't confuse anybody but it lays out the flow of electricity in this circuit

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