Power Steering Mount Broke--How screwed am I?

I was changing my Power Steering pump on my 06 and it is extremely tight going into the top Dog Ear Mount. Of course I tried to nudge it with a hammer and bar, and the lower Dog Ear broke right off. You can see where it was flawed on 1/4 of it, but in any case, does anyone know if that mount is an integral part of the Block? I can't really tell and can't seem to find any Parts Diagrams with that on it?
My gut tells me I may be on a Tow Truck to the dealership tomorrow, and it's my only ride except the Mountain Bike :-(.
Does anyone have any great "Oh that's easy" thoughts?

 

pics?

 

The shinny spot is where the Lower Dog Ear should be

 

Did you pry on it, without first taking that bolt out?

 

I found some pictures and it appears that the Timing Chain cover will have to be replaced. Unless it could be welded. I am sooo screwed!

 

I was trying to tap the top of the pump into the upper Dog Ear, but the lower one broke off when I tightened the bolt to hold it in place. No I didn't pry per se' but I did exert some force on it by the angle I had to use.

 

That ain't good. Not good at all.

Other than replacing the timing cover you could get a bolt on bracket made to support the lower side of the pump if you know someone that is good at machining and fabrication.

 

Look on the bright side! Their's so much oil leaking in that area. At least with a new valve cover & gasket the leak will be taken care of. Suggest to at least clean up the engine with some engine cleaner. Isn't their a local shop that can do the work? The sealership going to charge a premium for fixing that, 6 hours labor + new timing chain cover!

 

So I had a Coors Light epiphany last night. The lower (Broken) mount isn't load bearing. The belt holds it against the cover. The top one (The one that is too tight) is the load bearing side if there really is one. So when it gets a bit lighter I'll be heading out with a Dremel to open up the bushing that appears to be hanging it up. (This is also why the Timing Covers probably leak, they can't seal 100% because the P/S Pump is wedged in there during the assembly line). I little bit of JB Weld to hold the broken one on. I'll post how it worked (Or didn't).
Yeah the oil looks bad, but I'm at 187,000 miles and you can't see any loss on the dipstick or the driveway. If this doesn't work I'm going to call around for a shop, Keith Pearson Toyota here in Jacksonville has been okay with me so far, but I haven't done anything crazy like this (Just Brakes and Recalls)

 

Too bad it's not medal you could weld it back in place! A suggestion if you do use JB weld, you might want to get a washer and glue it to the cashing for reinforcement. One other crazy idea can someone tap or weld a stud their in that location? Using bolts below and above the broken hole, make a medal bracket to support the pump.

 

All great ideas, unfortunately I couldn't use a washer because it won't fit. And a backyard bracket or a weld still would require the front of truck to come off or an engine pull. If that has to happen I would just as soon replace the Timing cover. JB is drying now.

 

Just an update for any poor person in my situation (I do most of my best work using this site) The JB Weld didn't hold and there is a gap in the bottom bracket, but it is holding because of the Belt tension. I Miked the upper bracket and the replacement pump. The pump was 2 100's of an inch to large (Bracket 2.47", and both the pumps were 2.49" at the hinge mount) just enough that it wouldn't fit unless installed on the assembly line before the Timing Chain cover. In the dozens of pump, Generators, etc changes I've done I've never seen one this bad. A Dremel and a grinder took care of that and it is nice and snug. I'm going to start looking for a shop that can fix or replace that Bracket as I spend a lot of time a long way from nowhere (Can you say Banjo Music?).
Just to add to the grief, the whine is still there, I'm afraid that it's a Tensioner like the ones I've read on the forums here :-(

 

What the heck is "medal"?
Metal?

That bracket is made of Aluminum (Aluminium to the British), which is MOST DEFINITELY "metal", and can certainly be welded using MIG or TIG process.

 

Well, not being a TIG Welding kind of guy, it looks to me like the front of the truck would have to come off to get to it. Anyway, I drove it to work and back with no issues, but I was being easy. When I got home my son was here, so I had my 6'3" "Little Boy" Rev the engine, and the Pump doesn't move.
I also found a post on the FJ forum where a guy had fabricated a bracket, I'm waiting for him to see if he still has the spec sheet on it so I can have one fab'd for piece of mind purposes. BTW the local Dealership wants $2,592 to replace the Timing Chain Cover, the Service adviser was excited to give me that quote. (I was going to use a different term, but don't want to offend anyone)

 

I hope the dude in FJ Forums has the bracket plans. I knew that would be a cheaper option.

Offend anyone?

Here?

Nope. Not gonna happen. let it fly.........................

 

If you could go back in time, before breaking it. Is their something you would have done different in removing the pump?

 

Two things. A. I wouldn't have started the project at 4:00 on a Sundfay because that just starts you behind the 8 ball, and I know better. B. I would have taken the Pump back out and Micrometered the base and mounts instead of try to force it. That's when it broke.
No word back from the FJ Dude, but here is the link; http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...t-off-engine-oooppps-fixed-before-summit.html

 

That is one sweet job of making do. I feel you can do the same as I mentioned in my earlier post above. If you can't do it yourself, print the pictures above and take them to a machine shop. I'll grant you it will be cheaper than a new timing cover and installation. Probably a lot stronger too.

 

Clean up the area with CFC free Brake Cleaner, get a propane torch and braze the ear back on with alumiweld. http://www.alumiweld.com/