power steering/ steering issue

I see you are driving an 07 Tacoma but yet you say the shaft was replaced under warranty. How did you manage that? (Was it causing the stiff steering?) Mine is an 08 and has only 32,500 miles.

 

I bought the extended warranty when I bought the truck used with 32000 miles. It has paid off for me and then some. Yeah I had the stiff steering issue. Are you having this problem on your 08?

 

Yes I am and I know of another with an 08 that has the same problem. I made a comment on Toyota Canada Face Book page about this saying there should be a recall or a TSB for this issue. I got a call from Toyota Canada and she was going to look into it to see if there was any upcoming action on this problem. I won't hold my breath.

 

Has anyone purchased parts from Village Toyota Parts? They were very helpful in answering my messages to find the correct part number according to my VIN # but when I asked if the part was in stock I haven't heard from them.

 

To everyone having this problem, FILE A COMPLAINT! https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

This has been a known issue since at least 2005, and it is BS that there is not a recall on it. It's a huge safety issue, and a ripoff to pay $160+ for a simple universal joint.

 

I can't file a complaint from Canada ? I have this issue too, my steering clunk like hell and he is really stifff about 1 year... i greased it but, now it's time to put a new one on it ..

 

Someone can tell me how to remove the old lower shaft ? I must remove the 2 upper and 2 lower bolt and push up the shaft to remove it ?

 

Any sort of steering related issue should have a recall issued for it. If it is SRS, steering related, or anything else that immediately impacts safety to the end consumer due to a faulty design or a flaw in it should always have a recall issued with it regardless of mileage!

 

I can go to the dealer and he gonna repair it?
, my truck is not young and got 190 000 km on it....

 

I call toyota mOnday, thanks !

 

1. Take seat belt and put through steering wheel to keep it from spinning or someone spinning it. This is important as if it spins i will likely break the clockspring.

2. Jack up, remove fender liner behind LH wheel; turn steering wheel so that the two 12mm bolt heads on the split yoke next to the fire wall appear, remove bolts and index sides of yoke with paint to preserve location of upper and lower shafts.

3. The split yoke should be able to move upwards and thus release the lower shaft. If it does not move spray yoke with penetrating oil, wait, and then try to open the split on the yoke a little bit with a big screwdriver.

4. Go to the bottom of the lower shaft. Only one 12mm bolt holds it on. Carefully index the clamping part of the shaft with the stub shaft that enters it from the steering rack. This is very important to be as precise as you can here as there is not a flat place on the splines of the stub shaft of the steering rack that will limit it from going on the wrong spline. There are 31 splines IIRC and getting the match off by one spline will cause the steering wheel to be off about 11 degrees IIRC.

5. Remove bolt. You may have to do the same here as described in No. 3 above. Remove shaft.

6. Torque values for all the bolts you removed is 26 ft. lbs.

 

Thanks a lot buddy! but if i fix my steering wheel... i can't turn the steering for finding the bolts. I can do the number 2 before the number one explanation ?

 

I suppose I was not real clear. The idea with the steering wheel is to keep from having someone come along and giving it a ...........whirl. You know a kind of free spin situation. That happens more than you think and I have been guilty of it too. Kids love to do it. But the seat belt often allows it to turn just a minimum amount without causing an issue to get the coupling yoke apart. There is a TSB for the upper shaft that requires the same thing. Let me see if I can find it as it may be a bit clearer to you.

 

Here is the TSB. If it does not link, copy and paste in the URL. Even though the TSB is for the upper shaft do steps 2, 6, 7, 8 to get the yoke apart so that the lower shaft can be removed.
http://contentm.mkt2319.com/lp/1443/19128/T-SB-0057-12.pdf

 

It's really clear now! Now i'm ready to do it! Big thanks buddy !

 

Holler if you need some help.

 

I just cranked my wheel all the way to the side, pulled back that rubber apron, and sprayed some PB blaster on the joint. Worked the wheel back and forth and sprayed it a few times. Never had an issue since.

 

Toyota charge me 627.20$cad for the upper shaft and 865$ for the lower LOLL Damn sick !

 

Whaaaaaaat! This sounds very not right.

I paid about 170 ish ea. US relatively recently. I think I would take them back and find a US source or eay.

 

Oh, and for the upper shaft make sure you order/get the TSB shaft. It is the same part number but ends in 20 like so.........xxxxx-xxx20.