Power Stop k137 front brake kit?

Can you postill some how to pics as you install please?

 

Shiny
I was pretty impressed with mine when I opened the box.
So I just went and retrieved my box not sure why I still have it but oh well. I was mistaken the box is correct to the web instructions. The installation guide has the differing version.

I'm at like 27k on them and am still happy with them. But then again my stocks had like 122k.
I'm pretty much the only driver for the last 100k. Never would have done this with my GMs and still have any value or issues!
The wife's suby will getting these when weather warms up. She's a one peddle or the other, coasting is not an option person. I've done either front or rear every year since we bought it.

 

Nice set up!
How much of the rotor can you see through the wheel?

 

So have you decided?
The instructions included are pretty decent also for those who were looking.

 

The box is sitting in my living room. Going to install them sometime next week when I have a minute.

 

I have the same kit for couple years now pretty happy with no issue just make sure you do the proper break in procedure.

 

If you want to really maximize the stock braking power, along with the drill/slotted (ceramic pads) as some have previously mentioned, replacing the rubber section/articulating part at each wheel with flexible stainless lines will markedly improve your stopping power, hands down the best you can do without going Tundra....

 

@HawkShot99 the install is super easy. I think getting the brake pad retainer clips out & back in was more confusing than anything, I had mine upside down after fighting with my needle nose pliers. Take a pic of the brake caliper & pad before you take the clip & pads out, or just do 1 side at a time and run to the other side to check how it goes back together. Depending on your climate, vehicle mileage, age, etc your rotors may be frozen on the hub. You can tap the back side of the rotor with a hammer to bust it off or use the threaded holes in the rotor to screw a bolt in and "push" them off. Make sure you only do a few turns of the bolt on each hole at a time, that way the rotor doesn't get crooked on the hub & jam itself up. Props to @MonkeyProof for his pic



Here's my War Machine after getting the new rotor slid on. Seen 1 seen em all but who cares, it's mine

 

I LOVE mine. Did the break-in procedure as outlined, and I have NO shimmy, pedal pulsation, shudder, squeal or any other issues, and when I hit the brakes, it's like I dropped an anchor!

 

Thank you very much. Like I said, I have changed pads on my old truck and motorcycles, but never put on new rotors. The job seems quite easy and not a crazy amount of $. My truck stops ok for now, but I have a slight shiny in the wheel on harder braking stops. Getting rid of that, and a bit stronger brakes when trailering seems worth it.
I will plan this for spring since I don't have a garage.

 

Good to have! Some of those hills on I-84 heading into Pa. can be steep! Not to mention driving over Storm King Mountain, or heading into Danbury, Ct. .

 

I took plenty of pics and I'll make a how to do it yourself thingy in the next few days.

 

OK so sounds like the aftermarket rotors are worth it. but what about crud getting in there while off roading? it may improve performance while towing a trailer but what about slugging through mud and down steep dirty trails?

 

I put some EBC's on my last car and did the break-in procedure. It's best (I found) to find a nice little stretch of roadway with little to no traffic to get this done. Close to a freeway is even better, so you can cool them after bedding.

 

I installed these on my 4R last spring and ran them all summer wheeling in CO. While we don't have a ton of mud, plenty of rocks, sand and water and I never noticed any adverse effects, grinding, stuck pebbles, whatever.

My opinion of them is that slow speed breaking wasn't a vast improvement over stock, but once they heat, like on a long descent with constant breaking (either on or off-road), they bit noticebaley harder. Trailering was improved as well.

 

Sweet Pics! and that's good to know. I'm doing an icon stage 5 lift with armor bumpers and skid plates and cant decide if the OEM is plenty good or if I should consider upgrading because of the extra weight. I already have a camper and usually haul gear with me when I'm wheeling. the dealer here in PHX quoted me 80 bucks a side.

 

I did the rotors with the Z-36 tow & Haul set. Good investment. Considering I have almost 300lbs with winch and bumper plus 100+ in armor under it. And the 200+ in tools in the box. Yeah they help a whole lot!!

 

Forgot about this thread. Finally had a chance to install the kit a week ago. Followed Powerstops break in procedure and have been very impressed. Better initial bite and best of all no more vibrations from the stock warped rotors.