Power Tailgate Lock Conversion Kit

Go to you tube and watch videos on it not hard at all only takes about one hour.
Everything is plug and play and don't need many tools.
Hardest part is zip tying the wires to keep away from the exhaust.
I would never pay for a job this easy.

 

I was shocked. The only thing I could figure is that they don’t want to do the installation. Oh well... I’ll just install it myself.

 

At this point in my life, I don’t mind paying someone a fair price to do something I don’t want to be bothered with. I’m a busy contractor and just don’t feel like handling tools when I’m not working. That said, I won’t let someone rip me off either. So I’ll be sliding under my truck myself.

 

Will the OEM kit work on my 2016 Sport? Dealer says I may have to do some mods, but he didn’t know what the mods were.

 

2 days! Nope, right around 2 hours, including gathering tools, moving the truck, sweeping the garage & Reading instructions.


If you are mechanically inclined and can read & follow the install instructions the job is SIMPLE

also, take a loom at this thread
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2019-tailgate-lock-pn-pk3b6-35js0.637471/

 

Etopars 2 X Black Car Plastic Universal Heavy Duty Power Door Lock Actuator 2 Wire 12V

$11 Etopars 2 X Black Car Plastic Universal Heavy Duty Power Door Lock Actuator 2 Wire 12V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728K222V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_YyHdGb0CBEJSX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
link has two actuators but you only need one. 15’ of 14 guage speaker wires and you have a tailgate lock for under $15. Search on YouTube how to do it

 

Yes it will work, there are no mods to make to your tailgate.

 

I noticed this as well and I’ve written about it elsewhere. I believe the harness manufacturer made a mistake with the tailgate to body harness connectors and put them on the wrong sides.

I swapped mine so that it matches the camera. As a result, the body harness connector (which used to be on the tailgate side) locks into place on the plastic tab which holds the camera connector and the tailgate connector secures to it without any zip ties.

I consider this a rather amusing mistake where someone decided to just say “f it, good enough” somewhere down the line. But it’s super easy to swap with heat shrink solderless connectors and some harness tape (or be careful and reuse the existing tape).

Now that I’ve done a bit more crimping it might even be easy enough to de-pin and re-pin with reversed gender but probably not many have a weatherproof crimper and the correct pins and seals.

A mod to the mod if you will. Or rather a pre mod since you can do it on the bench before the installation.



I’ve thought about building an intermediate 6 pin connector harness so it would all be plug and play but it seems like a bunch of extra connectors for very little added convenience and the 6 pin might even be harder to fish though the rectangular opening for tailgate removal / reinstall.

 

Good you said No Thanks. That was a rip off for sure. Either they didn't know what they were doing, or they were ripping you off. And you can easily find the popnlock kit online for less than $100. I too, didn't feel like doing it myself, so I had my local mechanic do it for me, and he only charged me $80. And if you watch my video that I linked above, you will see that I actually had him put in the dash switch that I used to lock/unlock the tailgate, instead of connecting it to the door locks, which seemed too much to me since I rarely unlock my tailgate. Although the instructions are pretty straightforward, I just didn't feel like crawling around under the truck, etc, and getting a crick in my neck all the while. But super glad I got the popnlock for my tailgate!

 

That’s cool. I’m getting the OEM kit delivered tomorrow. I’m not too worried about the installation, was just going to skip doing it myself until I got that quote. All the shit boxes I wrenched on, just to keep them in the road, when I was younger turned me off most of that kind of work. But I guess I learned a few things that way.

I like your switch idea but I’ll be putting mine on the key fob switch. I usually carry a lot of tools and have a cap. I’m just tired of having to use 2 keys to secure everything. This will eliminate the tailgate so I’m left using just the key for the cap. Thanks for posting the video! Videos are definitely helpful so I’ll know what to expect ahead of time.

 

Did it last night in a little over 2 hours. Definitely a creeper or a lift would have made it go a lot faster. My body harness was also labeled for Tundra but it was the correct fit. The hardest part was snapping on the two-cable pass-through at the tailgate and body.

 

^^This right here^^ I recommend OEM all they long!!

 

I installed mine a few days ago and I have to agree those protectors were probably the toughest part. I have a creeper which made is very easy to slide around under the truck. My wife was a huge help in feeding the body harness under the carpet and through the hole under the passenger seat. With her smaller hands she could feed it through as I pulled under the truck.

really a quick install maybe an hour and I watched a couple of the YouTube videos and had the pdf instructions up someone had posted.

 

Do you know where those PDF instructions are?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachm...ilgate-lock-short-wheelbase-issb-pdf.3776816/

 

Just ordered the OEM kit for my 18' online from a local dealership. Should arrive next weekend.

 

Just ordered mine for long bed from my local dealership for $180 with tax. Sould be here Tuesday!

 

Wow, that was quick.

 

For anyone with the exterior LED option (maybe just a Toyota South option?) this message is for you. I just installed the OEM kit on my 21' LB Limited. I ran into an issue with the LED lights that illuminate the ground - it had already consumed the floor hole & grommet that this kit is supposed take advantage of.

To install it, I had to use a 3rd floor hole and grommet that is just behind the B pillar. I had to get the wire harness under the plastic b pillar panels, which was a pain in the ass, but you can pull the the bottom plastic panel on the pillar enough out to push it down in there. Once I got the wire harness on the backseat side of the B pillar, you have to fish it pretty far into the cab and then down the hole. The grommet on the wire harness wasnt big enough, so I retained the original grommet and cut a hole to pass the wire harness through it.

Fortunately after all of this messing around, I got it solved. One downside of this approach is that if a passenger sits in the rear, right side of the cab, their feet will likely put pressure on the wire harness. For me, in the year I've had this truck, I have had 1 drive with someone sitting there, so it may not be an issue for me right now, but maybe in the future. But I didn't really see another way to make it work without drilling a hole, which I wanted to avoid.

 

Does anyone know if there’s an issue with using the long bed lock assembly on the short bed truck? Is there an issue with too much cable in any particular part of the truck that it can’t be rolled up or tucked away somewhere?

Thanks,
C.