Power Tailgate Lock

I installed a pop & lock last week on the passenger side and it was very easy to run the wires. The hardest part of the entire installation was bolting the actuator into place due to limited space.

I went back and forth on which side to run the wires and I chose the passenger side for these two reasons.

1) The tailgate stays locked with the first press of my remote button or if I grab my door handle to unlock. It will lock with one press of the remote button. I figured if I'm needing access to my tailgate, most of the time I will be accessing the other doors on the truck.

2) By having it only unlock with the passenger doors, it is actuated less often. I figured this was less wear and tear on the actuator.

I can't say that the passenger side was harder or easier than the drivers side, but running the cable was super easy to do by myself as you can follow the cable already run along the chassis from front to back.

So far I have been happy with it, besides the noise of it which is loud but not terrible. Sure makes it much easier to get in and out of the covered box without having to pull that little key out of the fob each time. Good luck with the install.

 

I don't want to wire the pop & lock to my other locks. Does anyone know where to get a 5 wire illuminated door lock or power window button that fits the blank in the lower left dash? All of the ones I'm finding are simple push on/off and won't work correctly with the actuator.

 

I am having a difficult time with which color wires to connect on passenger side. any diagrams for a 2014 4dr tacoma? A 2012 has blue/black and blue pink connected to the pnl. I have those 2 wires, but another says green and red. I can't find anything pictures of this harness assembly on mine.

 

I used the top right connector on my 2017. Not sure if it's the same for your 2014

See pic below posted from another member

 

My plug was black not white. Finally figured it out and finished. The PNL green went to blue/pink and the PNL blue went to blue/black. Whew!! Glad that's done. We came up the passenger grommet under the seat. Figuring out the wiring took the longest. Used the posi-tabs. Those are sweet!

 

So here is an odd question before I go and order all the parts to do this. I have installed the dball remote start and the cell service Smartstart so I can start my truck from my phone. On the phone app I can lock and unlock the doors and I have a trunk or aux buttons.

If the programming works, could I wire up my dball to so I could select the trunk button on the app and have the tailgate unlatch and open automatically like I was doing it by hand?

 

Based on my understanding of the install, the tailgate taps into the wiring for either the passenger or driver wiring so it wouldn't to be separate

 

For those that have done it, is dynamat or other sound deadening material worth it for the pop n lock install? is there enough room for it? does it interfere with the lock mechanism?

 

Used the brand Fatmat from Amazon, not sure if it did anything because I put everything back together after install. It's still loud AF. I wouldn't waste my money on it.

 

Thank you for the post! Definitely something I need to look into.

 

I finished installing a PNL in my 16 today. I watched the videos, read this thread from top to bottom, and had very little problem. I ran the wires through the passenger side, and tied the wires into the back door wiring so that the tailgate unlocks when the back doors unlock. It didn't work the first time I tried it, but then I remembered I didn't plug the harness back into the block. Once I fixed my own stupid mistake, it worked like a charm!
Thanks to all those who posted tips, pictures, and videos! They were very helpful.
As for those saying it's loud, I don't have a problem with noise - it's no louder than the rest of the doors unlocking, as far as I can tell.

 

Holy crap, I thought I was the only one who made this same mistake. Couldn't figure out why my locks weren't working for like 5 minutes, lol.

 

You and I are probably not the only one's to do that...just the only one's that admitted it!

 

I did it also, just I was checking the wires with a meter before I soldered the wires on.. I was like well I guess I have the wrong wires then I was like, damn got to plug it in first!!!

 

I am going to order the parts this week and work on it next week - I can't wait.

 

Luckily I still had an actuator, wires and butt connectors leftover from when I used to do car and stereo alarms at Best Buy. Installed yesterday and used rentdrops wiring schematic to tap into pink/red and pink/green. As for the actuator I used some tips from a tundra forum to fold that bracket in that manner. All in all it didn't cost me anything since I already had the parts. Here are some pics of my setup to help others. Gonna put some leftover dynomat over the metal above the actuator tonight. I used to have my power doors set to unlock all doors when grabbing the handle but just switched over to just the driver's door so I can limit the amount of times that I use that actuator.

 

I finished mine today and so glad I did it. I did notice, at least for my install, that when ever I shut the tail gate it would fail and I figured out that gravity was pulling the rod out just enough for it to stop working - probably due to the way I bent the rod.

I decided to add a little block onto the rod coming from actuator to keep it from moving, so just in case anyone else runs into this too.

 

It's called pop a lock. Available from Amazon

 

Had a pop n lock installed along with my shell. Whole thing works with the passenger doors/remote. Really slick setup.

 

Struggling with this. I have the universal actuator.

Everything wired up, but can't seem to get a 12v pulse out of the pink/green and pin/red wire in the rear driver's side B pillar. Tested good with a 12v battery at B pillar so I'm pretty sure my wiring good. I have all doors unlock with drivers so that's not it.

Anybody else have issues getting enough power to power the actuator?