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power window motor to scissor arm broke. help?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas' started by joe440, Feb 9, 2013.

  1. Feb 9, 2013 at 2:44 PM
    #1
    joe440

    joe440 [OP] Active Member

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    joe
    laguna niguel, ca
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    so i went to put the window up yesterday and heard a snap/crack noise followed by no window movement. Window motor still works and all that, the scissor arm just broke off where it connects to the motor. I cant find anything on the bottom of the door if a piece fell off. Seems like it would need some type of snap ring or even stronger to hold it where it has to be.
    Heres what im working with:
    End of scissor arm that should be connected to motor
    [​IMG]
    Where the scissor arm should be connected to over that raised metal oval
    [​IMG]
    I see on both ends of the problems those three little circles in a triangular shape around the oval, is that anything? Also the male end being an oval shape and the female end being a perfect circle. Any info would be great.
    Thanks, Joe
     
  2. Feb 9, 2013 at 3:51 PM
    #2
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    ------------------------------------------------------------ Stabilus.EZDown.Tailgate http://www.ezdown.com/home.php ----------------------------------------------- Tekonsha.Primus.IQ.Trailer.brake http://www.tekonsha.com/content/default.aspx---------------------------------------------------------------- Leer 180 CC http://www.leer.com/Truck-Caps#------------------------------------------------ Firestone Air Rite Air Bags--------------------------------------Kargomaster Rack
    Looks like something that was spot welded? If you know someone with a spot welder just respot weld it. Most likely you don't so if you do know someone with a mig/tig welder drill a hole where the spots are on the side that had the metal ripped out or thinner side and then use those holes to reweld it. other than that get a new part?
     
  3. Feb 9, 2013 at 5:16 PM
    #3
    Rsoxfan1

    Rsoxfan1 Well-Known Member

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    Try quicksteel or jb weld for a quick fix...
     
  4. Feb 10, 2013 at 2:16 PM
    #4
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    ------------------------------------------------------------ Stabilus.EZDown.Tailgate http://www.ezdown.com/home.php ----------------------------------------------- Tekonsha.Primus.IQ.Trailer.brake http://www.tekonsha.com/content/default.aspx---------------------------------------------------------------- Leer 180 CC http://www.leer.com/Truck-Caps#------------------------------------------------ Firestone Air Rite Air Bags--------------------------------------Kargomaster Rack
    Don't waste your time with these they will not hold that.

    You need a real welder or a new part.
     
  5. Feb 10, 2013 at 2:20 PM
    #5
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    A good welder should be able to fix that right up. It's probably a dealer only part, I haven't heard anyone talking about window regulator/motor failure other than this one thread. From my experience in retail auto parts, the aftermarket usually only picks up a window regulator application if it's a well known high failure rate.
     
  6. Feb 10, 2013 at 2:43 PM
    #6
    fixer5000

    fixer5000 the logical one

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    weathertech visors,remote start,lojack, ARE z type topper, wet okole seat covers, pop n lock tailgate lock
    its 8 yrs old buy a new one
     
  7. Feb 10, 2013 at 2:49 PM
    #7
    Rsoxfan1

    Rsoxfan1 Well-Known Member

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    If u can't fix it try dorman...I would be surprised if they didnt have one...
     
  8. Feb 11, 2013 at 6:57 PM
    #8
    joe440

    joe440 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for all the info. Went to the dealer saturday and they wanted $113 for the entire track system because thats the only way to buy what I needed. So after work today, took apart and was able to fix it pretty easily within an hour and a half. Pretty surprised how small the factory welds were to hold it together.
    So in case anyone else has this problem, here's what i did
    [​IMG]
    cleaned up the steel and marked where the factory spots were
    [​IMG]
    lined them up and clamped together
    [​IMG]
    welded the holes, filling with mig or tig is the better way to go than a spot weld. I could of probably welded in the center around the oval, but i was a little hesitant just incase something went wrong it would of been a bitch to grind and seperate.
    [​IMG]
    put it back in and worked like a charm. heres what the dealer wanted to sell me for that problem
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Feb 12, 2013 at 6:57 AM
    #9
    maykevin5

    maykevin5 Well-Known Member

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    3 inch lift, stainless steps, JL/Focal audio sound system
    At least the trucks don't have that stupid cable system that breaks all the time. I like good metal gears..
     
  10. Feb 12, 2013 at 3:33 PM
    #10
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    ------------------------------------------------------------ Stabilus.EZDown.Tailgate http://www.ezdown.com/home.php ----------------------------------------------- Tekonsha.Primus.IQ.Trailer.brake http://www.tekonsha.com/content/default.aspx---------------------------------------------------------------- Leer 180 CC http://www.leer.com/Truck-Caps#------------------------------------------------ Firestone Air Rite Air Bags--------------------------------------Kargomaster Rack
    Looks perfect.

    Thats what i would have done.
     
  11. Feb 12, 2013 at 9:05 PM
    #11
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Yes! Glad to see no cables on this one. We had a Jeep Grand Cherokee that broke both front window regulators. The first time, the dealer gladly took 240 bucks from me for a new one. There is so much markup on them, that the parts guy gave me 40 bucks off just for asking for the "good guy" price. The second one, Dorman had come out with a kit, including a motor/regulator assembly and some extra plastic door panel clips to replace the ones that always break. The whole kit was right around $100.

    Sucks about the spot welds breaking, but that looks like a sample defect, not a design problem.
     
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