Power Window Problems

Hello!

I'm having an issue with the passenger side power window in a 2015 Tacoma. Basically, it stopped working (luckily in the UP position). I can't control it from either the passenger side (PS) switch or driver side (DS) master switch. The DS window works just fine. I checked voltage going to the motor and I have both UP and DOWN signal voltage to the motor from both the DS & PS switches. That led me to believe it was a motor problem so we put in a new motor and still the same problem. Also of note is that the window glass moves freely in the track and the regulator seems to articulate just fine. Now I'm thinking that it may be a bad switch (but not sure which one) or a ground fault somewhere - but have no clue as to where to start looking. Anybody have any advice?

Thanks!

 

It’s probably the master switch (driver side)
The ground for all the windows goes through it.

 

Above ^^^
If you're getting the 12 Volts for up and down you are missing the ground in the master switch as stated above.

 

Since BOTH switches won’t do anything, that pretty much tells me it’s not a power issues.
As both switches use a separate power source.
But the same ground.

If it were me, I’d unplug the passenger side switch.
Probe pins 2 & 5 and see if one is one is NOT grounded.
They are both grounded in the park position (not pressed).
If one is not showing ground, that’s the problem.

Red = Power
Blue = Ground

 

If you do the test above and you have ground on both wires.
The. It’s the passenger switch. But my bet is on the master switch.
Mostly because that’s the one that fails the most.

We can test the switches if we need to.
To make 100% sure.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!! This will probably make me sound like a complete idiot - but how do I test the passenger switch for ground?

 

You first check pins 2 & 5 or the wire harness (shown below)
If they both show ground, then you move on to the switch.

On the switch side, NOT pressing Up Or Down-
You will check for continuity between pins 5 & 3
And then 2 & 1.
(Note: You are not checking the harness side here. You are checking the actual switch) The switch pins will be mirrored of harness pins.

Harness side

 

Thanks for all your help - TRULY appreciate it. I don't have access to the truck at the moment, but I did check the switch (pin 1 being on the right and pin 5 being on the left) : I have continuity between 1 & 2 (0.1 ohms) but NOT between 5 & 3. I did have continuity between 5 & 4 though...

When I check the harness, I look for continuity between vehicle ground and the harness correct? Again, sorry for being a simpleton - just want to make sure I'm doing things right.

 

You should have continuity between 5 & 3 of the switch. Which makes sense, because you say the window is stuck UP. And will not roll down, correct?

If so, when you push down on switch to roll the window down, it sends power from Pin 4 to pin 1 then to the motor, then back out of the motor to pin 3 and through the switch to pin 5.
This is likely where the problem is. I would have been wrong on my guess earlier as it being the master switch.

BUT……still test pins 5 and 2 on the harness for ground.
I like to use a test light. But you can check it for continuity with a meter.

Correct

 

You are correct - the window is stuck UP - however, when we took the regulator out to swap the motor, I hooked the motor up by itself and tried DOWN & UP from both the PS and DS with no results.

I double checked the PS switch and I DO NOT have continuity between 5 & 3 but DO have continuity between 1 & 2.

Since my test light grew legs and walked off, I checked pins 5 & 2 on the harness with my meter and DO NOT have ground there either - "OL" between the door hinge (Chassis ground) and each of the pins.

At this point, since I have to order these online, I'm thinking I should replace both switches and be done with it.

 

Is the window lock on?
That’s what cuts ground to not allow the other switches to control the windows.
You should see ground on pins 5 and 2 of the harness (as long as the window lock isn’t on) and the master switch is hooked up.

 

Nope - double checked and tested with the lock switch UP & Down - have nothing on 5 & 2.

 

Strange.

The dark blue circle is the shared ground on the master switch.
The dark lines are the wires to the passenger switch.

The light blue line is the path to ground.
It goes through the Lock.

Is your truck a 4 door?
If so, try a back door window.

It’s looking like you have more than one problem here.
Which is really weird.

 

Story of my life - If it's a weird combination of things... it'll happen to me.

Unfortunately, it's a 2 door access cab - no rear switches to try/swap out.

I'm not totally convinced I tested the ground correctly so I'm going to get a test light to verify.

I've already ordered a new PS switch and will wait to order the DS switch until I can verify the absent ground. I'll be sure to let you know what shakes out.

Again, thanks for all the help!

 

Success!!

Tested the harness with a test light and did indeed have ground on pins 5 & 2. Installed the new PS switch and it worked like a champ.

Thanks again for all your help!!

 

On a side note - It was driving me nuts trying to figure out why I was getting the readings I was on the new switch. When I installed the switch, I noted that on our truck harness the wires on pins 3 & 4 are reversed from what is shown on the schematic above.

Again - THANKS!!