Power window wiring harness help

Need some help. I'm in the process of adding a power rear slider and want to tap into the power window circuit. I'm looking for the wire trace color located in the driver's kick plate (lower left side of foot well) that sends power out to the power window control in the driver's door where I can tap for my switch. Thanks in advance...

 

I just used an add-a-fuse and a separate DPDT momentary toggle switch for my power rear window.

 

I got a hold of a 2006 schematic and if it's the same as my '13, there should be a solid red wire that feeds the PW assy on the driver's door. Hopefully I can tap off if that - if not, then I may go with an add-a-fuse. I'm going to be using the Sienna rear vent window switch so I'll have to tap into the switch illumination circuit too.

 

Knowing Toyota the wires are different there may be a red wire but it does something else.

 

This weekend I'll wire it up and post what I've found.

 

I did the power slider thing for my tundra. Its better to do the add a fuse thing. You already have the scuff plate up. Its not much more work to take power to fuse box.

I would think it would be more work to tie into door window power.

 

After removing the lower part of the driver's dash, I found it easiest to use an add a fuse. Used a 20A tied into the fuse position for a rear window. Tapped off of the illumination circuit on one of the other switches for the light on the Sienna switch. Power rear slider works great!

 

I know... I have to figure out how to post a video...

 

did you use the "BenWa" bracket or craft something different to attach the rear glass to your window motor cables?

 

Modified version of BenWa's bracket. I used a rear slider power window motor from a 2009 Ram which has ferrules swaged onto the cable ends. The bracket is 3 pieces of .125 X .50 aluminum. The main piece is 14.32" long. There are 2 short pieces on each end as caps which are .50 long. There's a hole through the cap and main piece at each end which fits the ferrule. The caps are held onto the main piece with a .060" dowel pin and a #2 screw. I have a 3D solid works model of the bracket at work that I can get a PDF of next week. To get the cable tensioned properly, I zip tied the spring sleeves compressed to the regulator and then made sure there wasn't any slack after getting everything mounted. I used the existing plastic track on one side as a stop for the cable sleeve. The other side I used two small self drilling screws to hold the cable sleeve end (a plastic block) in place inside of the track on the driver's side of the window. Once set, cut the zip ties and, if done correctly, the cables are properly tensioned. I zip tied around the latch to hold it off of the frame. I had tried to tap out the dowel but it's in there pretty good and I didn't want to hit it too hard in order not to break the glass.

Edit: As promised, here's a jpeg from SolidWorks.

 

Interesting - I also used a piece of .125 x .50 aluminum, same length. My end cap pieces are spring steel and extend .25" past the end of the main bracket, and are riveted to the main bracket, cable ends feed through holes in the end caps and are terminated with brass cable barrels with set screws (the cables can be adjusted through the barrels after the motor, spring sleeve zip ties are cut, if necessary). I drilled 1/4" holes in the end of each window track and used bicycle cable adjusters as the cable stops at each end of the track. My window motor came from a Chevy impala. I just "jammed" a rubber grommet under the latch to keep it open. This is one of the most practical mods I've made to my Tacoma. Glad to hear your window is working well.

 

Let's see if a video will load...
https://youtu.be/H3v--syl3og
Here's a few pictures too.


The last picture shows the plastic block on the end of the sheath.
You can see the cap ends on the slide rail. I used some black 3M super weatherstrip adhesive to keep the rail in place on the glass. Without it when you go to max extension, the rail would move and lift slightly.

 

Nice work, I like the super weather strip adhesive idea, as my bracket does move a little also.