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Power wire through frame

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by mrmumbels, Dec 11, 2010.

  1. Dec 11, 2010 at 8:01 AM
    #1
    mrmumbels

    mrmumbels [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone run their power wire through the frame and if so is there a specific route that's best?
     
  2. Dec 11, 2010 at 8:07 AM
    #2
    pudge151

    pudge151 Well-Known Member

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    power wire for what?
     
  3. Dec 11, 2010 at 8:08 AM
    #3
    07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah SHHHH, this is interesting

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    I've run power wire through frames but mainly for compressors. I like to keep to the inside of the frame rail, and use something to hold it in place if possible like this:
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Dec 11, 2010 at 8:12 AM
    #4
    01tacoprerunner

    01tacoprerunner Lifted 'n Locked 4WD Prerunner

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    x2
     
  5. Dec 11, 2010 at 9:22 AM
    #5
    mrmumbels

    mrmumbels [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stereo power
     
  6. Dec 11, 2010 at 10:59 AM
    #6
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Is there a reason it needs to be inside the frame? It can be done, just a pain in the ass. You might be able to use the string and shop-vac trick to get your route. Also depends on how thick the wire is. The issue is if chaff the wire during install or over the course of some time while driving, you'll never know it. Just get some wire loom and run the wire next to the frame and zip tie it to keep it secure.
     
  7. Dec 12, 2010 at 1:44 AM
    #7
    Ihnaer

    Ihnaer Member

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    Why would you even bother? It has to come back in the cab anyways and thats just another hole in the floor. Use the wire harness boot in the farewall and run it down the door sil channel. they are HUGE. Just remember RCA and speaker on one side and power on the other. its extra wire, but a few bucks of wire is a small price to pay for less interference.
     
  8. Dec 13, 2010 at 7:13 PM
    #8
    Miata Tech

    Miata Tech Well-Known Member

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    Another option would be to use a Ancor Marine Grade Electrical Wire Seal.
    Looks a lot tricker than just pushing the wires through the wiring harness gromet.

    [​IMG]
    IMG_0046.JPG by Starwind 19, on Flickr
     
  9. Dec 13, 2010 at 7:18 PM
    #9
    mrmumbels

    mrmumbels [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nice miata. I already found a great spot through the frame and came up into the compartment under the rear seats and used a rubber grommet I found at autozone.
     
  10. Dec 13, 2010 at 7:38 PM
    #10
    C5RACNG

    C5RACNG Member

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    I agree, just ran 4g thru the large boot and right down the channel,
    came thru the firewall just where I wanted it
     
  11. Dec 14, 2010 at 8:43 AM
    #11
    81shark

    81shark Well-Known Member

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    you guys are working too hard. there is a hole in the firewall down by the brake booster for this. you remove the kick panel on the driver side, and the plastic covers down the side and bam, you are done.

    keep it simple
     
  12. Dec 14, 2010 at 9:19 AM
    #12
    mrmumbels

    mrmumbels [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was trying to keep it simple not realizing the door jam tracks were that huge. I still would have had to go from the rear door jam to the underseat compartment so maybe running it through the frame was for the best. It's 1/0 ga btw
     
  13. Dec 14, 2010 at 9:38 AM
    #13
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Just make sure it's protected. If you chaff it within the frame, you'll never know it until you short something out.
     
  14. Dec 14, 2010 at 3:50 PM
    #14
    mrmumbels

    mrmumbels [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It should be ok. I tied it in good so there's no movement. Plus, have you ever seen the surround on a 1/0 ga cable? Crazy stuff.
     
  15. Dec 14, 2010 at 4:46 PM
    #15
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I'm more referring to when you pull the wire through. Yes, I know what the surround on a wire like that looks like and it's that thick for a reason. It's very easy to skin the protection off a wire like that when you're pulling it through a frame with some sharp rust spots or metal burrs and you have no way to inspect it when you're done. Just playing devil's advocate and trying to tell you some of the pit-falls so you can avoid damage to your set-up.
     
  16. Dec 14, 2010 at 5:10 PM
    #16
    Siebler

    Siebler Duck Killing Machine

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    I use several thousand of these at work every year. They are great little waterproof fittings. I am using them on my truck with the new wiring set-up and battery relocation.

    If anybody wants to go this route I have great contract price on them (retail is like 17 bucks). I think I can send them out for like 12 bucks shipped.
     
  17. Dec 15, 2010 at 1:17 PM
    #17
    rscecil007

    rscecil007 Well-Known Member

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    There was a guy on the x-runner forum that ran his power wire though the frame. Conveniently enough, you can dive right into the frame right under the battery in the engine bay, and there are tons of grommets already in the floor throughout the cab you can use . This one guy used one to come up right under the rear seat, IIRC.

    1/0g is big, but you can run it down the door sill channels. I had some like that at one point.
     
  18. Dec 15, 2010 at 1:27 PM
    #18
    jspadaro

    jspadaro Well-Known Member

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    Maybe you shouldn't have used 1/0 gauge, sheesh! 4 gauge can carry up to 60A 20 feet, dude.

    Just out of curiosity, what are you powering? (Besides a welding machine :p)
     
  19. Dec 15, 2010 at 7:14 PM
    #19
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I ran 2 gauge through the stock grommet there with no issues. Went right down the track with plenty of room to spare.

    If you run the wire outside the truck I'd suggest using welding cable. I use welding cable anyways regardless of where I run it but the jacket on it does better when exposed to the elements.
     
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