Prayn4surf

@Prayn4surf hey boss I’m hoping you can chime in about your experience w the different coils you’ve had on your icons.

I just picked up a used set of extended travel icons that need a rebuild and I’m wondering about revalving and spring rates. It looks like you’ve had 13” 650#, 14” 700#, and 14” 650# coils. How come you went back down to 650?

also, how did you decide on your new valving? Did you get the flutter stacks from icon directly? Accutune told me theirs don’t work with icon shocks.

thanks for any thoughts!

James

 

I went back to 650’s cause the 700’s were just too much for the weight of the truck. It made impacts very rough, and that is why I went to a softer coil. The 650’s seem to be doing the trick. The 700’s felt like they were going to cause structural issues. With the valving I called Icon and talked to adrian. He gave me some suggested stacks. I still havent done the fluter stack, but I want to try that next. Call icon and talk to adrian. Shock tuning is a stab in the dark for most of us, so I would just get used to opening up the shocks and changing one thing at a time. My shocks have improved, and Im going to play around with them till I cast them aside and put fox w dsc’s everywhere

 

I know we have talked about this quite a bit shit I guess a year or two ago, but I recently ended up going with the ladder. Tossed the icons and got ADS with click compression. Worlds better and I was able to still sell my icons for $800 which I considered a win.

 

thanks fellas

I’ve got an OME kit in the truck right now and grabbed the extended icons for $200. They def need a rebuild and possibly new shock bodies, but they were so cheap I figured I’d give them a go. They have some 650# springs but I’m not sure if they’re tired or not. Was thinking of just replacing those too and starting as fresh as possible.

I don’t like the ride of the OME kit. It is so harsh....brick dump truck style even with plate bumper, skids, and steel cable winch. My bed is empty, so the rear is stiff as well. Just wanna smooth things out and get an upgrade at the same time.

 

One thing to consider is that if it’s the 650 spring that came on the icons from factory, it’s a 13” spring. If you replace it, replace it with a 14” 650 spring or what ever weight you decide on.

 

i saw that @Prayn4surf did that. Any reasoning behind that? Would that just give more lift with less preload?

 

Common misconception. You won't notice a difference between 13" or 14" as far a ride quality. They produce the same forces. The difference is the amount of travel the spring has before block height, otherwise, the amount of preload you can add to the spring before it binds. They (Icon) use 13" springs because on a stock truck, you'll have too much preload to obtain the desired ride height.

 

i understand part of what you’re saying, but I’m not clear on what you’re suggesting... a 13” or 14” coil? I know the idea of coil bind, but I can’t picture in my head which would bind first. Wouldn’t it depend on how tightly wound the spring is?

 

A 13" will have a shorter block height (height of spring fully compressed and at bind) but will not have as much travel (difference between TLG and block height).

If you're going to buy new springs I'd typically recommend the 14" but it's not worth your repurchasing springs with the same spring rate in different lengths unless you're having binding issues. This suggestion also changes based off your truck setup. @Prayn4surf truck has a lot of additional weight so he can use a 14" spring and add the proper amount of preload to achieve his desired ride height.

 

I can't stress enough how nice it is to play and fine tune suspension and get everything dialed. I've helped my dad with the valving on his rig the last few times he's done it, and I can tell a difference every time we do some work. I'm so tempted to buy new coilovers and rear shocks from Fox. I'd probably just going to get remote resi's, no DSC. Too fancy for my wallet.

 

Im a fancy bitch I cant help it lol. But also why it aint going on my truck anytime soon. I have no clue what Im doing with tuning and its about time I actually change the stacks, the rear needs the compression changed bad. But yeah man, i got em, lets learn with em, and it will improve ride quality eventually. I have some solid friends that help me also.

I doubt you need new bodies. The well known shock companies make pretty good shock parts. I would just throw some new seals in there, some new oil, and let it ride. Put some durabumps on, and you probably wont ditch them for a while. Shims are cheap, new shocks are not.

 

What @desertjunkie760 said.

 

New Hampshire shocks for $200. He may need new bodies... Still a solid buy if you can do the service yourself.

 

Dudes, I think they need new bodies.....

 

I haven’t ever had a set of proper coilovers let alone rebuilt any, but where would the fun be without something new to learn.

Seems straight forward from what I have seen. Gonna plan for new seals, shock bodies, and whatever the bottom mount bearings are called. Given their state I’m wondering about coils

 

Ill have more updates later this week for you Shay lol.

 

I'm getting bored all holed up in a hotel room with a Chevy Equinox to get me around, I require entertainment