pre-collision system malfunction - visit dealer

To fix the pre-collision malfunction you first turn your key to the on position without starting use your hand not your foot hold on to the brake pedal for three seconds until it clicks it will reset

 

I recently ran into this along with the Check Vehicle Stability Control System message after putting a levelling kit on my 2018 Tacoma. What a pain in the ass, I can't express the frustration over worthless electronic devices in vehicles. I tried the paper cleeeeip method, didn't work. Was in my garage on flat ground, unhooked both battery terminals for 10 min, etc. etc. nothing. Cruise control wouldn't work either which made sense as it's tied into that same sensor behind the grill. Alignment place didn't have the scanner needed and said these systems are becoming more prevalent and problematic when you raise a truck. They said I may need to go to the dealership to have the thing reset. None of my local auto stores had a high end scanner that I could use (without buying it off the shelf), they all keep the most basic versions to loan out. In the end a local garage was able to plug in with their Mac Tools data pad scanner and clear the code. Fingers crossed it doesn't come back. I'm not sure what was more of a pain the code or getting them long ass UCA bolts back in. Done is done.

 

Any idea what codes needed cleared? I need to be able to give my local shop some very specific instructions. Thanks!

 

PAKraig, I can't say for certain what codes there were. I tried three regular off the shelf ODB scan tools from my local parts stores, none of them showed any codes. The lights on then dash were lit up like Fallujah in 04 though, so I can't say it was a "code" per-se. The local shop I stopped in had a Mac Tools top shelf data pad looking professional scan tool. When he plugged that in, he did his thing and cleared the lights from the dash. That's the best I can offer. I know for sure it has to be a professional scan tool, or from what I've read, one that has the ability to clear ABS errors. I cannot confirm this, again, as the tools I borrowed were basic ODB readers that didn't have the ABD functionality. Loner tools aren't top of the line, and I wasn't about to buy one just to figure this out. Hope that helps. I imagine once your mechanic plugs in, it should be straight forward if you're having the same issue I had and nothing else. Been driving it around for a week or so now, nothing's come back on.

On a related note though, I have this growling noise coming from the front driver's side post-install / alignment. Sounds like a CV axle, did some looking around, I guess it's a common issue when you do anything to 2nd or 3rd gen Tacomas, even a silly two inch levelling kit like I did. Some company out of NC called East Coast Gear Supply has figured out the issue, lots of info on their page. They make a replacement bearing that you drive in and it's supposed to fix this all too common problem. Mine is arriving tomorrow, I have to tear the front driver's side apart once again to install it. Not too hard a job, but point being, if you're doing any work, just order the friggin thing and install it when you're in there. What a help these online forums have been my alignment shop had no clue about it, said he couldn't even hear or feel it. It's very noticeable. Sort of feels like you're riding the bumps on the edge of the road. Anyhow, I hope this helps out anyone who reads it.

 

I appreciate the response. I had my shop install my Bilstein 6112s and Icon RXT rears not quite a month ago. He had my truck in the shop all day and fought with the Zero Point Calibration for TOO LONG in the afternoon and I think just got tired of it and gave up. After a $600 labor bill to install the lift, I'd like him to clear the codes for me too. I'm not a big fan of the error messages flashing at me all the time. He's a top end shop in my area and I'd trust him to watch my kids, but he gets really frustrated with all the new tech. Can't blame him there, the TSS and PCS stuff is the biggest reason I held onto my 2017 for so long, but I talked myself into a 2022 anyway. Just hard to pass up the trade values right now against a new vehicle purchase. I may be looking to sell this one and go back to an older 4Runner or Tundra after this mess.

It does look good though....

 

Read up in the ECU Tuning threads. You might be able to suppress or even fix it with the TechStream software...

 

When I first lifted my Taco, the front was level with the back before alignment. I tried washers to help point it down, but no luck. As soon as it got off the alignment rack, the sensor was functioning perfectly. Went home to pull measurements and the front came down almost an inch from the corrected camber. The rear was almost exactly 1" higher (factory spec) so I found out that the TSS wants the factory 1" rake on the truck.

 

I have Eibach suspension on my '19 with rear blocks. It is a tad over 2 inches of lift and level. No warnings or lights.

 

Bingo, the slight rake may be needed.

 

Amazing how this affects some trucks and not others with the same changes being made. Truly an example of technology failing here, engineers are by far the most worthless groups of humans ever created in some calculus hellhole. But it's safer and most efficient......So says the Emperor.

 

the lift is a bad excuse. The SR sensor location is a full 4" higher than the TRD grill location.

 

Rather than starting a new thread I'll post here and see if anyone is having a similar experience. After 50,000 miles on my truck I'm starting to have issues with Pre-Collision, Lane Departure, and Headlight System Malfunction, Visit Dealer on the dash.

For the record. My truck is modified. I have all the goodies - bumpers, armor, suspension, gears, pro grill, and etc.

The problem first started about six months ago while just driving around town. I took it to the dealership and they claimed they couldn't find anything wrong with the sensor. They said my front grille was loose, which it was, but they wouldn't touch it because of the modifications. The front bumper makes it difficult to take the grille off. I attached some cable ties to hold the grille tight, and that seemed to work, at least for a while.

The malfunction warnings would come on randomly while driving down the freeway, which sucks because the adaptive cruise control wouldn't work. However, eventually it would go away.

Most recently the truck was parked at the airport for four days. When I turned the vehicle on, the issue started. This time the malfunctions would go on and off constantly, which would cause a beeping sound. This went on for a couple of days. It went away for a day. Now it's back to on and off with the uncontrollable beeping.

Has anyone else had this issue, if so, what did you do to fix it?

 

Do you have your old grill if so part swapping should be easy and you can see if the grill is your issue

 

Is your steering wheel not very very close to center? If it is not, this is the problem. If it was hit and the wheel/a-arms knocked out of alignment AND the sensor not reset, this is likely the problem. I had this happen when one of my SPC UCA nuts slipped during a very hard/panic stop. Knocked the alignment for a whack! I rough realigned it at home and withen a day or two this alarm showed up. The dealer blamed it on me lifting it and refused to reset/calibrate it. I argued with them on the phone and told them to do nothing then and I would fix it myself. I did some research and bought a high dollar scanner tool and planned on clearing/resetting the code. When I picked up my truck the warning was gone and they told me they had done a "one time reset" for free. Now I dont know for sure if I could have fixed it myself or not, but I think so...

 

Another option is to have the dealer turn PCS off completely. I have a 3 inch lift and was able to get the sensor up and running with a custom mount but I got tired of getting sensor dirty error messages every time I went off road so I just had it turned off permanently. I don’t miss it one bit.

Downside is that you lose cruise control and if you ever want to turn it back on you have to buy a new sensor from the dealer.

 

could you do this with techstream at home?

 

I believe there is a TSB that allows the dealership to deactivate the system if a truck has been lifted as long as you sign a waiver that absolves them of any liability if an accident happens.

 

Agree this is an option! I had to show my dealer how to do this via a TSB, they didnt believe me... Glad I did not go this route so far. One question though, are there any idiot light lit up or messages with this turned off??

 

I still have the old grill, but I'm not convinced that will convince the dealer. I felt like it was an excuse for not being able to identify the issue. It is an option.

I'm not having alignment issues that I've noticed. The steering wheel doesn't pull one way or the other. It seems rather normal.

This is looking better by the day. The beeping is extremely annoying.

I have a hard time understanding why it's such a problem after 50,000 miles. Why not sooner.

I'm wondering if may the plug/cable for the Blind Spot Sensors have gone bad. I don't have the blind spot sensors anymore since I replaced the rear bumper and had to remove them. I made them somewhat water resistant. Does anyone know what code that code that would cause?

 

No sure but I don’t believe so