Pre-purchase build check (5100s, Camburg, Dakars, etc)

I'm at least a year into researching lifts for my 2015 TRD Sport DCSB. Below is my current build list, I'm looking for feedback in case I have overlooked, forgotten, or am simply clueless to anything before I shell out the time / money.

After more research and comments from helpful TW members, I've made a few changes to my build. Edits in red below.

Overall goal: 2.5in lift front and rear lift, keep it under $2k. Don't screw anything up. I don't off road a ton, primarily beaches and gravel - don't need to be rock proof on this.

Decided to lower my budget to $1500 and my lift height to around 2in based on my need - I only off road a few times a year. From my research and crunching numbers, it gets exponentially more expensive beyond 2in of lift. Plus this gives me some tolerance for unexpected costs.

Front:
Bilstein 5100 shocks, Toytec 2.5in lift springs, Camburg UCA (any objections to Camburg?)
- Diff drop (not 100%, lot of mixed reviews about this - objections?)
- 1/4in lean spacer (I know its not a suspension issue)
- ECGS bushing (worth going ahead and doing while I'm in there?)

- 5100s are still the way to go for my needs.
- I changed to OME 885 coils which should provide 2-2.25in lift for a 4x4 DCSB.
- I also purchased Light Racing UCAs to save some money and should give me more flexibility in alignment than Camburg.
- Got the diff drop because it was cheap - what the hell, right?
- Installing the ECGS bushing while I'm in there is 100% advised by TW.

Rear:
Bilstein 5125 shocks, OME Dakar leaf pack,
- carrier drop (generally positive about this- any objections?)
- bushings and u-bolts (wasn't planning on doing shims - any objections?)
- extended brake lines (mixed reviews - really needed for 2.5in?)

- Don't need the extended 5100s since I'm only lifting 2in the rear.
- Changed to a 2in AAL in the rear to save cost and simplify the build.
- Wheelers suggested I only use a carrier drop, but I've read a lot on TW that shims are a better option. I order a steel 3-degree kit along with a carrier drop. I'd rather go ahead with the shims while I've got the leafs dissembled anyway.
- No need for extended brake lines with 2in lift in the rear.

Thoughts:
- I'd consider a full OME set up if I didn't have a 2015 - don't want to take a grinder to my rear mounts.
- still reading up on the long term issues related to a lift, what else should I be reading?
- need to start/finish the build over a weekend and still make it to work on Monday, so preparedness is key for me - any sleepers I need to be aware of in the process?

Let me know if I've forgotten anything - I've read some many forums that my brain is going to explode if I don't do this soon.

- I purchased everything today for the build from Wheelers, ECGS, and Headstrong. My grand total after alignment is almost exactly $1500.

 

If you don't off road that much I would skip the UCAs and diff drop to save you money. I'm running Bilstein 6112s with 2.5 inch lift and I get great alignment numbers on my 2013 Sport DCSB. Any good suspension shop should be able to confirm this.

 

I’d say skip the diff drop, it’s not really needed.
UCA’s really depend on your alignment numbers.
Not sure if you were going with Uniballs or ball joints, but spc light racing UCA’s are great for the money, correct alignment, but a little less “showy”

Since you’re a 2015, everytbing should come off easily, unless you have salt corrosion (winter state)?

 

After further research and a 20 min call with @Wheeler's Off-Road Inc (thanks Steven), I think I'm going to condense my build and save some $$ in the process. I'm going to keep the lift around 2-2.25in overall and go will an AAL rather than a full leaf pack.

Basically, they agree with you guys and tell me that up to 2.5in doesn't really require a UCA - its on the line, but feasible. I also called my local 4x4 shop where I'll be getting the alignment done and they say the same thing. I'm 60% sure I'm still going to buy UCAs out of an abundance of caution, but have decided to go with Light Racing SPC - its more affordable and alignment being my concern, will probably do a better job than Camburg.

Given that my leafs only have 35k on them, I think a 2in AAL will suit my needs just fine - it also reduce the build costs significantly.

 

You probably don't need a new front spring either. The 5100s are advertised as 0-2.75" with the stock springs and stock weight(nothing added like a bumper, winch, ect.)
That set up looks good for your needs though.

 

like others have said, skip the Diff Drop. do the ECGS since ur in there IMO (I will be doing the same) look into JBA UCA's. just as good as SPC but a little cheaper. good reviews as well. good call on the AAL since u don't have any added weight in the rear I am assuming and u don't off road. since u are only doing AAL I would ditch the extended brake lines to save $ not needed. I know people with full leaf packs that didn't have extended line with no issues. its more for people who have extended travel shocks and flex out their suspension to full droop

 

Got the build finished this weekend - decent learning curve but was pretty straightforward. Got the alignment done at a local 4x4 shop yesterday and they courtesy-checked all my work.

To recap:

• 5100 front and rear
• Light Racing UCAs
• OME 885 Coils
• Wheeler's 2in AAL
• Diff Drop
  
• 2.5 degree axle shims
• Carrier drop - haven't installed yet, waiting to see if the shims are enough

Gained right at 2.5 on the front and 2.0 on the back. Don't know if I would have gotten 2.0 in the rear without the shims. I'm happy to have preserved some of the stock rake though.

Before:

After:

Thanks for the input / feedback. Glad its finished, would only be happier if I sprung for the Dakars in the rear, but I'm glad I spent that money on the UCAs.

 

Forgot to mention that I replaced the needle bearing while I was in the front - ECGS was an easy install. Realized now that I was already experiencing symptoms before the lift and didn’t know it was the bearing. My ride is noticeably smoother now.