Pre-Purchase Inspection 1999 1st-gen 2.7L-Auto, 4x4, 277K

Seeking inspection advice.

Came across this 45 min outside Seattle, WA. Owner says it started running rough and wants to get rid of it for $1700. Looks clean, and given that these still sell for $7-10K, this seems like a bargain or too good to be true.

UPDATE: I checked it out this morning. Passed on buying, as I wasn't sure it would make it home. Not freeway worthy.

GOOD:

1. The entire frame had been replaced (but not by Toyota).
2. 4WD worked
3. Cold startup and fast idle was good.

BAD:

1. The automatic transmission seemed to have a grindy-whine sound and may have been shifting rough and late. Hesitant to transfer power to wheels at times.
2. It died frequently on idle after driving, and the starter (or battery) were very hesitant.
3. Full width cracks in the windshield, and the cabin was wet/moldy inside (Seattle).
4. Couldn't get the e-brake light to turn off. Front left brake seemed to grab--at least at first.
5. No spare tire, and one of the rims was a cheapo replacement while three were original Toyota alloy.
6. Drivers side exterior door handle wouldn't operate. Passenger side handle was weak.

 

Spend the $200 and get the PPI.

 

Agreed! The lowest 1st gen Tacoma on Seattle Craig's List is going for $11,995 and the next ones are asking $17,000 and up. Used JDM engines(typically 70-80,000 miles) are available for around $2400 and a reasonable mechanic will charge around $3000 to install. These trucks are super solid and if upkept will run forever.

Foreign Engines in Lynnwood.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/ptd/d/toyota-tacoma-t100-and-4runner-3rzfe/7813811796.html

 

@ $1,700 just assume you'll have to change the motor out, but you'd still be ahead.

1 - yes- flash light hammer. If it's got non-oem paint on it, then assume there is rust under there.
2 - put it in 4x4. If it works, it works. If not you'd have to start diagnosing things- fuse, actuators, etc...
3 - you don't- unless they have the records that OEM ball joints where installed recently, then just change them out for OEM.
4 - yes

 

At that price the only possible dealbreaker to me would be significant rust.

 

Better hope he doesn't tell anybody else about it. Cause for $1700 plus ttl it's already gone. Good luck

 

As long as you are fairly mechanically inclined and don’t mind wrenching
JUMP ON IT

just what I have read here on TW about rust
(Here in TX one doesn’t need to fret about rust)
That would be the determining factor.

are tags expired?
I.E. failed State safety inspection

Any story behind selling from owner?

 

Install a LC engineering 2.7 engine and you’re still money ahead.

 

It’s a shame I just bought a Cayman S. This would be a good project.

 

100% We're talking maintenance including but not limited to; minimizing the use of aftermarket parts, getting regular oil -and- filter changes, replacing fluids, belts, hoses, suspension, drivetrain, injectors, water pump, fuel filter, and adding Seafoam, Gumout, Lucas Octane Boost, and Lucas Injector Cleaner, etc. as needed. It doesn't matter what you drive, take care of it and it'll last. This coming from someone with over 374,000 miles on an original engine I bought in 2004. Just my two cents.

 

in Texas You DO have to fret about that rusty crusty if its been run on the sandy gulf beaches
i have seen some nasty AF chit on toyota trucks that have been on them Texas beaches... it is even worse than the snowsaltbelt regions of the upper midwest to the east coast imo

 

I checked it out this morning. Passed on buying, as I wasn't sure it would make it home. Not freeway worthy.

GOOD:

1. The entire frame had been replaced (but not by Toyota).
2. 4WD worked
3. Cold startup and fast idle was good.

BAD:

1. The automatic transmission seemed to have a grindy-whine sound and may have been shifting rough and late. Hesitant to transfer power to wheels at times.
2. It died frequently on idle after driving, and the starter (or battery) were very hesitant.
3. Full width cracks in the windshield, and the cabin was wet/moldy inside (Seattle).
4. Couldn't get the e-brake light to turn off. Front left brake seemed to grab--at least at first.
5. No spare tire, and one of the rims was a cheapo replacement while three were original Toyota alloy.
6. Drivers side exterior door handle wouldn't operate. Passenger side handle was weak.

 

Got to pass on the turds, find one with some meat left on the bones.

 

How much would a new transmission for the 2.7L first gen cost in a big city (Seattle)?
Is it possible/reasonable to swap with a manual transmission?