Pre runner 4x4 Swap DONE!!

Another member "Pray4Surf" did the same thing in a 3RZ. I asked him what the hardest part was, and apparently he ran into some problems:

"Hardest part? - Realizing I had a 3RZ and all the existing conversion write-ups dealt with the 5VZ engines. This made for extra work. Scoring the wrong transmission up front was a huge set-back. And not realizing it until the old one was out. Hint: get a transmission jack.
Experience? - 40 years of 'tinkering', plus 6 years as an aircraft mechanic (USAF)."

Did you run into the same problems?

 

I didn't run into any problems, and I did my swap on a 3RZ. What trans did he get that was wrong? Did he get a R151, cause that's what went behind the 6 cylinders. You need a W59 for a 3rz, although I've heard of people putting a R151 behind a 3rz but you need a bell housing from anoher truck, like a 2TRFE. Which would be a really cool swap but I think those bell housings are hard to find. Sorry, kinda hit a rabbit hole, but no I didn't have any issues on the swap. It went pretty smoothly and took about 12-14 hours total.

 

I quoted the wrong comment, here's the issues he stated:

BartMaster1234 (Me) said: ↑
Well, crap. I have a 3RZ. I was planning on swapping it out with a 5VZ though. Why was the swap difficult due to the fact that it was a 3RZ? Do you need to modify the wiring harness or get a new ECU?

Pray4Surf said:

IF (and it's a big IF) you can find the donor parts off a 3RZ, then go for it.

Here is what I ran into - the engine block on the 3RZ sits 2 inches further back than the 5VZ, so everything was off 2". I had to customize the transfer case shift lever, extend some wires, and have the driveshafts modified. Doesn't seem so bad now as I type this out. But they sure gave me headaches as the problems arose. What surprised me was I was able to retain the use of the transmission crossmember. I also ran into issues with an inop speedo which required a new sensor gear...

Ultimately, from start to finish it took me 8 months. Though, I was able to accomplish tasks and keep it driveable during the week.

 

Hmm, that's something I've never heard of happening. Yeah I definitely didn't run into anything like that. But my swap was pretty much a bolt up deal. Glad he seemed to have got her figured though.

 

A340 auto trans. The first one I scored was from an 03 or 04 with 'drive-by-wire'. I found a new owner for that and found one from a '99 4Runner which had the 'proper' connections. The later year transmission 'bolted' right up - simply couldn't make the rest of the mechanical connection(s).

 

Update: I have swapped the KM2's for a brand new set of 34x10.50 Super Swamper LTB's. I got these tires specifically for hunting season only, these are not a year round tire. I also purchased a set of sliders from 4xInnovations, have not had time to get them on, its finals week but hopefully I'll get them on within the next week.

Heres the sliders as they came, wrapped and waiting to be welded to the frame. The shipping from 4x was fast, I got them in three days.

This is the notched tubing that runs from the frame to the slider with the frame plates and gussets.




Here is my truck as it sits with the LTB's, they rubbed at the pinch weld and the UCA's when the truck flexed. So, I ground down the pinch weld, which may hard to see in the picture I took. I am also running 1.5" wheel spacers, which I did not want to do, but had to to get the lugs off the UCA's. Also trimmed the front bumper a tad, but it'll be getting replaced with a plate bumper soon. Now I have no rubbing anywhere, and I love these tires, they are the best set of swampers I've ever run on a truck. They are honestly not the loud on the highway, I realize they are new though and will gradually get louder as they wear. I plan to rotate these every 1000 miles and get as much life out of them as I can. Once I get the sliders on I'll add some pics of them. Thanks for looking!

 

I was just recently looking into doing this. I would keep the automatic on mine just to make things easier, but I do have one question.

Do the spindles actually need to be replaced or is it just easier to do it that way? I thought that they were the same but the prerunners just had a cap or plug where the wheel bearing would go. Could you push that out and install a new bearing instead of replacing that whole assembly? I may be entirely wrong, just wondering.

 

It'd be easier to just get spindles off a 4x4.

 

What tashcomertexas said.

Pressing out the bearing from the spindle requires a good amount of force. You also have to torque the spindle/hub retaining nut to like 205 ft-lb. If you don't have access to a good shop press, then financially, you are better off just getting some 4x4 spindles. That way you won't have to buy two new bearing, hubs, oil seals, and pay for the labor.

 

Wish you were local
I would pay to have this done on my 4 door!!!

 

Is it possible to buy a 3rd generation 4Runner and use the drivetrain/tranny/etc. off of that? I want to do a V6 engine swap, manual door>power door swap, panel swap, etc. and it would be cheaper all in all to just pick up a whole 4Runner from a car auctioner. Would the 4WD components be the same as it is in the Tacoma? Good condition 4X4 1st gen Tacomas are super uncommon at junkyards and car auctions.

 

OP, great thread. Thanks for sharing your experience. Great to see another successful swap complete... Makes me that much more itchy to get mine started.

 

BartMaster, I think I've read through Pray4Surf's write up but I haven't looked at it lately. However, I'm unclear that the back end of the block is really located differently on the 3RZ or 5VZ, or if it is, if it makes any difference to what has to be done. Several people have swapped in the R150F behind their 5VZ, and everything may line up with that one so that no fab work has to be done. I haven't studied that as much since I have a 3RZ.

For the 3RZ from what I've studied, you can swap in a W59 and everything lines up exactly except the transmission crossmember, which will require some fab work. You can also swap in the R150F. You should get a Taco R150F so the t-case drop matches, but if you use the R150F, you will have to shorten the input shaft by about 1 inch or swap it with a pre-Taco R150. Also, you need a bellhousing from the 2TRFE. And, you can get away without cutting on your crossmember... you only need to do some fab work on the actual support that bolts on to the transmission itself. I'm planning to go this route and have an R150F from a 98 Tacoma sitting in my garage awaiting me to get the rest of the parts.

If I'm wrong, someone please tell me. I'd love to know before I get started!

 

I think what you're saying is right. I entertained the thought of a r150 swap for awhile but I got a good deal on a low mileage W59 and couldn't pass it up. It was also hard for me to find a bell housing from a 2TRFE, there doesn't seem to be a lot of them in north MS. Definitely post your swap though, I'd love to see a R150 go behind a 3rz.

 

This is exactly what I want to do to mine! Total Cost? 4 or 6 Cyl?

 

This was done on a 3RZ four cylinder. And sorry it took so long for me to respond. Between finals week, a tonsillectomy, and a new semester of classes, I got distracted.

 

Also got my sliders on, but my phone screwed up so I only have one pic of them. These are sliders with a kick out from 4xinnovations, and these sliders are great and I recommend them. Sadly, I dented the cab years ago before I had sliders but hopefully these will prevent anymore dents.

 

No worries. Now I know who to run to when I need help

 

Sorry I forgot to add the cost, not counting lift, tires, and sliders, the swap cost roughly $1200. Doing all the labor in house saved a ton of money too. If you have any questions let me know.

 

Best mod to do yourself Lol I enjoyed doing mine