Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

TW did it again damn it. Now that the door speakers went on sale I feel like I have no choice but to buy them along with the tweeters. I’ve read through the first 30 pages of this thread and the last few pages. Did I miss any critical info in the 70+ pages in between? I’m a bit nervous to pull my doors apart.

 

Not true. Factory speakers are generally very sensitive in order to put out sufficient volume with the minimal power provided by the amp in the HU.

 

Fair enough - but damn those are some paper speakers . In this case the HU isn’t as weak as I have experienced on many vehicles previously and still powers these speakers quite well - that was the surprising thing and the reason for my comment.

 

So are these . Also uses neodymium magnets like the factory jobs.

 

That's what I was wondering about... Seems that the bigger tweeter in the 2 way, has higher range than the 3 way.

 

For those that have installed the door speakers, any issue with powering on the radio to test each new speaker as you mount it, before you put the door back on.

 

Nope, no issue.

 

Hoping someone has some info on this...

Since installing the front driver 6x9s I have a knock when rolling the window all the way down. Everything works perfect, but the second the window gets to the very bottom it knocks like it's hitting something at the last second. I can't for the life of me figure it out!

 

Well the install is this afternoon so I'll let you know how I like the small amp powered kicker set-up with hideaway.

 

Well damn they want $231.04 for materials to install. LP6-4, MC928.20, Kicker RCA, and Kicker 8 gauge amp kit. This will put total at $837.00 including tax in AL and I don’t think I’m that lazy... Think I’ll cancel this and go a better route or just install myself.

 

Anyone on this thread have and experience with Hertz amps? I got a recommendation, but not a lot on them online that I have seen.

 

I'm reading this and I'm sorry, but I'm lit. If it works, it works....

 

Hertz makes amazing shit

 

If you pull of your door you can take a look and see what is hitting. Did you use long screws that protrude past the back of the adapter? Install any sound deadening? Correct orientation of speaker adapter (sticks out not recessed into mount)?

 

I just used the screws that were holding in the oem speakers. Something has to be protruding from the speaker install though bc it didn’t happen before. It still rolls down all the way though, just makes the noise. When you say pull the door and I can see it you mean more than just the panel I assume?

 

Yeah pull the panel again and take a looksie, could be something as simple as something metal stuck to the magnet on the back of the speaker. I had too much sound deadening and had to trim/remove portions where it was binding.

 

So I did what the OP said. I have the Kicker CS door speakers and the Kicker tweeters. I am not a fan of doing the rest of the work though.

I got a quote today for the following:

- 10'' Kicker Sub
- Custom Box for sub that fits behind back seat similar to the JL Stealthbox, but not 700 bucks
- Dedicated Amp for sub (Hertz)
- 4 Channel Amp for speakers (Hertz)
- LC7 Audio Control
- Install
- Dynamat for 4 doors

Price tag? $1,000.00 OTD. I think if I am willing to part with the cash it is a good deal, any input?

 

How much power is that amp pushing to the doors?
LC7 $120
Kicker Sub and Box ~150 depending on sub.
Would say it is a fairly high price, but labor on mat (hour per door if they do the whole thing and they damn well better for that price)and install is quite a bit, especially with two amps. Would still consider doing more quality components, for that price, at least JL10W3 or simliar (TW3), maybe amps depending on what hertz model. For those items listed you could do it yourself for ~400 (depending on if you can make your own harness or not)

 

I've got their speakers (absolutely love em), but not the amps. I already had some good amps that I knew were clan and solid, so I didn't change.

I'd be curious to hear your impressions if you do get the amps. What speakers are you going with?

 

The dynamat is LOTS of labor time and probably a lot of that bill between the material and putting it in. When I paid someone once to do mine I couldn't believe how much it cost. Honestly, I'd pay for them to install the stuff you aren't comfortable with (electronics) then do the dynamat yourself. $12 for a trim removal kit off Amazon, a screwdriver and knife, and you have every tool you need to install it. I've done my taco, 4runner and a focus st and it has been worth it every time. You can also do your FLOOR which is a huge place where sound comes in, and a huge place where your sub loses it's thump as the "pulse" of it gets lost in the frame and sheet metal.

Pay the man for the tricky stuff, then have a bad saturday where you tear your truck apart, cut your fingers up etc putting in cdl and maybe some sound deadener. You will save a lot, learn a lot and have a MUCH better sounding system and ride.