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Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by bshammer0, Sep 14, 2017.

  1. Mar 5, 2018 at 4:52 PM
    #2161
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    OK kids.. Got the speakers today all 6. Didn't get the sound deadening stuff that will be here tomorrow.

    So did a little work today. Installed the tweeters. Was pretty straight forward.

    Now I have a revelation here... the kicker tweets don't really seem as robust as the stock tweeters. However they are putting out a lot more sound. I would say the magnets are maybe slightly bigger on the stock speaks but that maybe cause the plastic mounting on the kicker vs the metal flanges on the stock.

    They look to me to be pretty closely matched as far as quality goes...so why would the Kicker tweets put out more sound?

    I may have the answer. I am an audiophile and build all my own gear from scratch - even speakers. So I may have a few answers as to why the Kicker/Subie speakers sound a lot better. Oh and they sound a shit ton better.
    Here's my thoughts why:

    1)There's a capacitor right there on the speaker above the plug. I forgot to look and see what the capacitor value was on the replacements. I didn't look at the stock ones yet either. I'm betting the capacitor values are not the same.

    With a speaker low cut/high pass (filter) crossover all is required and is the bare minimum is a capacitor that is rated at a specific uF (micro-ferads) in this case.

    I'm betting those capacitors are different ratings and there's more sound aka more frequency range being passed to the new tweeter. I'm getting a shit ton more sounds from the tweeters than with the stock tweets.

    Beings there's not really much difference or substantial difference in build quality..(magnets seem to be pretty close in size - size matters with speakers), the difference in sound output is likely due to the that capacitor rating.

    Now all that said... I would NEVER ... I'm going to say it again NEVER use a electrolytic capacitor in the signal path and specially in a speaker crossover.

    2 reasons why.. they are affected very much by temperature (heat) AND they are noisy... Anyone that says different are just being cheap.

    Those caps prolly cost $.05 or less... a good quality cap in this position for a decent speaker will cost between $5-$10 ... and there's folks that will and do spend hundreds of dollars on a capacitor in this position.

    So yeah... the replacements are letting more frequency range thru.. and maybe a slightly better quality capacitor helps a shit ton as well.
    This was my first impression driving down the road during test drive. I'm like WTF.. why didn't I check the specs on those capacitors.

    I'm on this ... I'm a soldering artist when it comes to audio + engineer.

    I pretty sure we can get even more out of those tweets. I'm going to change out the stock caps for some quality Polypropylene or similar type capacitors... I have these in my shop. Do a little magic..poof.

    Can anyone that have the new replacement speakers take a look at the capacitor above and between the speaker cone and the plug and see if you can read the numbers... should be something like 2.2uF 50v or something similar. I can do it but already installed, light went on during test drive.

    Install was exponentially faster after 1st speaker install.. OP - fvcking eh bro! Props for write up and enthusiasm, lightened my wallet and am HAPPY! When does that ever happen? Well .. ok when I'm spending on Taco and wifey not in loop until after. She's my babe & loves to wheel and camp out. Shout out to my girl.. she doesn't even know whats about to happen!

    More to come with the door speaks... in hand just waiting for sound deadening material and snow day - wooohooo! East coast here.
     
    MrKatanga, Bastek and ToyoDrew like this.
  2. Mar 5, 2018 at 5:11 PM
    #2162
    LtPeteMitchell

    LtPeteMitchell Well-Known Member

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    I have the Hideaway. It adds just enough.
     
  3. Mar 5, 2018 at 5:12 PM
    #2163
    99Mike

    99Mike Well-Known Member

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    I got a lot of info from this thread, but went a different direction. I have an SR5 with the entune audio plus 6in LCD. I wanted to keep the HU for now. Instead of the Subaru tweeters, I opted for the Kicker 43CSS694 6X9 components for the fronts and 43CSC674 6 3/4 inch for the rears. I had an Alpine 4 channel amp rated at 40 watts RMS laying around that I installed under the drivers seat. I purchased the wiring harnesses from ********* and wired the amp through the speaker level inputs. I purchased an amp wiring kit from Amazon along with some Noico sound deadening. The truck still maintains the stock appearance, but what a huge improvement in the sound quality.
     
  4. Mar 5, 2018 at 5:57 PM
    #2164
    Hstone556

    Hstone556 Ain’ters gonna ain’t

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    My tweeter capacitors say: 68 Y(1)
    Sorry for the shitty pic, only flashlight I had was the one on my glock... didn’t have 3 hands so had to improvise.

    072B6F76-F487-4D19-ABE3-066E48856AA9.jpg
     
    frymy14, ToyoDrew and bobrown14 like this.
  5. Mar 5, 2018 at 9:02 PM
    #2165
    Ex03

    Ex03 Well-Known Member

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    What amp are you running
     
  6. Mar 6, 2018 at 3:49 AM
    #2166
    LtPeteMitchell

    LtPeteMitchell Well-Known Member

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    The Hideaway has a built in amp.

    I am adding my Alpine power pack amp to the OP Kicker speakers soon.

    F10BE022-540F-48EA-B630-C8D694543407.jpg
     
    Kolter45 likes this.
  7. Mar 6, 2018 at 1:02 PM
    #2167
    Ex03

    Ex03 Well-Known Member

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    Is the amp that the hideaway comes with enough?!? I am torn between the hideaway option and just biting the bullet and going with a 5 channel amp and a JL Stealthbox. Problem is am I going to be happy for ~500 bucks vs 1500
     
    Kolter45 and Turtle353 like this.
  8. Mar 6, 2018 at 3:36 PM
    #2168
    RedEmpire

    RedEmpire Well-Known Member

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    5 Channel Amp with JL Sub and Custom Box would be cheaper and still sound as good, most likely better than stealthbox
     
    CoastieRon likes this.
  9. Mar 6, 2018 at 4:04 PM
    #2169
    CoastieRon

    CoastieRon Hammocking Fool

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    Too much.
  10. Mar 6, 2018 at 4:34 PM
    #2170
    Ex03

    Ex03 Well-Known Member

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    5 channel or 2 independent amps, 1 for sub, 1 for doors? Which one and why? Trying to learn here Thx in advance.
     
  11. Mar 6, 2018 at 6:11 PM
    #2171
    LtPeteMitchell

    LtPeteMitchell Well-Known Member

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    Depends on what you’re looking for. It’s enough for a grown up that doesn’t want to shake the cars beside you. It adds a nice bottom end. It’s also cheap on Amazon, try it and send it back if you don’t like it.

    If you have the budget, you’ll be happier with one or two amps and a separate sub. These small units cannot compete with the other setup you mentioned.
     
  12. Mar 6, 2018 at 8:21 PM
    #2172
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    BRO grille, KICKER speakers, Key amp, Hideaway sub
    After hearing everything about the hideaway can someone give me the coles notes version of what is needed to make this work? I have done the tweeters and CS series kickers already. It is recommended to buy the https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KISL/Kicker-KISL.html but I don’t think I need this as I assume I will be using the speaker level inputs. Now do I piggy back the speakers off of say front driver or does it matter where I take the input from?

    I am not a car audio geek so bear with me. I have an access cab and don’t want to lose any rear seat capacity or have something that will get destroyed by having groceries, shopping or kids on top of. If I mount underseat (driver or passenger seat) as was suggested elsewhere online will I feel the sound unbalanced (vs mounting further back and centered) or will I simply hate the ass tickling vibrations underseat?

    I am loving the new speakers and since I am this far would I love things even more with the hideaway? Any help is appreciated because this is one topic I am completely lost on.
     
  13. Mar 6, 2018 at 9:25 PM
    #2173
    LtPeteMitchell

    LtPeteMitchell Well-Known Member

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    Here’s a reply I wrote to a pm I received about the Hideaway. Maybe it’ll help:

    But I did buy the subwoofer harness from ********* so I didn’t have to cut any wires. Otherwise, you can get your signal from the rear speaker wires than run down the B pillar. I bought the harness to save the headache. I think it was around $30.

    So it’s set up like this:

    Taco tunes harness plugged in the back of the head unit. Wires from it run to the Hideaway.

    Battery wire run from the battery through the grommet in the driver footwell back to the Hideaway.

    Ground bolted on to one of the rear seat bolts.

    Ran the volume control from the Hideaway to the cubby beside the steering wheel.
     
  14. Mar 6, 2018 at 9:27 PM
    #2174
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    Do you have the part# or link to the taco tunes parts? I prefer plug and play where possible. Thanks.
     
    Kolter45 likes this.
  15. Mar 7, 2018 at 4:28 AM
    #2175
    Turtle353

    Turtle353 Well-Known Member

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  16. Mar 7, 2018 at 4:55 AM
    #2176
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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  17. Mar 7, 2018 at 5:19 AM
    #2177
    Turtle353

    Turtle353 Well-Known Member

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    No but it will work also. Either one will work. The one I linked will power on and off the hideaway off the speaker signal and the other will be remote on/off.
     
  18. Mar 7, 2018 at 6:11 AM
    #2178
    CoastieRon

    CoastieRon Hammocking Fool

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    So just a quick rundown/thoughts on what I did with my system:

    Subaru Tweeter kit H631SFJ101: These tweeters sound fantastic, but I noticed that when it is really cold, they sound like there is something sitting on the cone. Like there is some sort of errant resonance going on. They sound even better with power.

    Front door PPI 6.5: I decided on going with pure woofers because the speakers in the OP are just too much tweeter. I couldn't even imagine having 8 tweeter cones in my truck. My tinnitus would get out of control. I found that they sounded fine with no power to them, except at hi volume. They were definitely under powered before the amp went in.

    Rear Kicker 43CSC674 6.75 coaxials: Great speaker set for rear fill. No issues.

    Arc Audio 850.5: Super easy amp to install and tune with oscilloscope. Made specifically for speaker line power, but there is soldering involved to connect the RCA plugs and to create the wire harness going back to the speakers. I probably would go this very same route again, now that I know what exactly needs to be done, and have done it successfully.

    JL 10TW1 and @Mr Marv sub box: I'm getting much more bang in the rear than I did with this same sub in my old 2009 Tundra.

    I totally went over the $250 with the whole system, but for speakers I was under the $250 ($187.64 with front speaker adapters) because I had the set of PPIs hanging around.

    I'll be honest, I think that going by the OP set up, there is just too much high going on. But sound is subjective, and one person may like it while others do not. It is definitely an easy and cost effective way to upgrade the speakers for the Entune Premium however. I think for people that are adverse to treble might go a different route with the speakers and still stay around $250 by putting a midbass woofer in the front doors rather than a coaxial or 3-way 6x9. For example:

    Subaru Kicker Tweeter Kit $96.27
    Kicker Coaxials rear door $55.99 Ordered from Crutchfield it will come with everything you need as long as you specify what door. Honestly, any coaxial would work back there....
    Midrange Woofer front door $41.70 each ($83.40 total)
    You will need adapters for the midrange woofers ordered separately through either @Mr Marv for $35. These particular midrange drivers have a 3" mounting depth.....
    Total: $270.66

    YMMV.......
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2018
  19. Mar 7, 2018 at 10:47 AM
    #2179
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    OK got my speakers out of the box and snow day so not going to install them today. It's snowing like a nuclear winter here... 2"/hour and going on and on... must fucking shovel now...

    So putting the speakers in the brackets. Have a question. Does it matter about orientation of the bracket for the front doors? I installed 1 speaker 1 way and of course the other speaker is opposite. Meaning the larger tabs to the left on 1 and the larger tabs to the right on the other. Should they both be to the left??
     
  20. Mar 7, 2018 at 10:57 AM
    #2180
    The Desert Fox

    The Desert Fox Well-Known Member

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    I noticed the brackets only fit one way in the door, where the small hole in the bracket (for the adapter wires to thread through) is facing upward so the adapter connector can plug into the door connector above. The larger tabs will be on the left (or right?) on each side (driver/passenger). Just member the hole is on top.
     
    bobrown14 likes this.

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