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Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by bshammer0, Sep 14, 2017.

  1. Nov 9, 2018 at 12:12 PM
    #3141
    ClutchCargo

    ClutchCargo Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
  2. Nov 11, 2018 at 5:15 AM
    #3142
    flattie

    flattie Active Member

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    Did the tweeters, fronts and backs yesterday in about 3 1/2 hours. I used some foam weather seal to seal the speaker mounting brackets to the door. https://www.acehardware.com/departm...s/weather-stripping/weather-stripping/5336698

    I also used the Roadkill Fastrings.https://www.amazon.com/FAST-Rings-3-Piece-Speaker-Enhancement/dp/B016LFVKHY Had to notch the one piece that goes against the outside door skin to fit around the crash bars in the doors.

    So far so good - my limited listening session has left me happy with the upgrade. The only casualty is I managed to bust the trim piece that fits behind the door handle on the rear passenger side - $17 bucks on Amazon for a replacement so no big deal.

    Thanks OP for starting this thread.
     
  3. Nov 12, 2018 at 12:55 PM
    #3143
    TXTaco13

    TXTaco13 Taco/T4R Enthusiast

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    You can get those trim pieces for about $8 at the dealer FYI. I broke one of the little tabs on the same door. Using Noico in the doors will help the speakers sound clearer and reduce road noise, I put it on the back wall and doors.
     
    Trance93 and imovelives like this.
  4. Nov 13, 2018 at 9:52 AM
    #3144
    Harsh

    Harsh Well-Known Member

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    Finally finished up the install in my 2014 DCSB with Entune non JBL. I am not a super audiophile, but wanted some better clarity and a little bump. I am using the stock head unit, Memphis Audio 15-SRX60C components up front, for right now the stock rear door speakers, Kicker Key, an older Rockford Fosgate P325.1 amp, an LC2i, and a Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW1000F 10 inch shallow mount sub in a Schosche TATAC05 enclosure. I already had all of the wiring from previous installs that I just re-used. Also, make sure you check the Crutchfield Outlet. Sometimes they will have what you are looking for a little bit cheaper. I found my Kicker Key there and was able to save a few bucks.

    I received the LC2i and a Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 sub last year for Christmas. I would have used the Pioneer sub, but the funky mounting ring wouldn't fit in the Schosche enclosure. So I had to get a different sub. I picked up the enclosure for free from a guy on the Toyota Nation forum. The enclosure fits in the stock right storage bin like a glove. The only thing I don't like about it is the mounting spot for the speaker connection. If I designed it I would have made it so that the speaker connections were in the indentations for the mounting bolts.

    I mounted the Kicker Key in a little pocket on the far right hand side of the dash just to the right of the glove box. There is just enough room to mount it in there. If you pop off the little cover on the side of the dash, that provides access to make any adjustments to it after it has been installed. This placement also makes for easy running of the wires to the rear of the truck since they can immediately route behind the kick panel. Additionally, there is a rubber grommet in the firewall that is a great location to run the power wire from the battery through. There is an identical rubber grommet on the drivers side slightly behind the brake booster to run the amp power wire through.

    46190775_10213371848676329_1443142413416_c08ea5146ffb233db1df0fe116ea1956918908ec.jpg

    When I built my T harness I just had to extend the wires to and from to get to the KK. There has been a lot of discussion about the orange wire with a black tracer on the Metra 71-1761 harness. Some say it isn't necessary to use some say it is. I had to add a wire to the mating Metra harness (70-1761) in order to have the button lighting and brightness control of those lights on my head unit. I didn't go through the ordeal of removing any of the remote power blue wires. I had the pins and orange wire in my spare parts bin so I just made my own wire.

    When I mounted everything in the doors I used butyl tape vice that sticky backed foam. In the DIY: Basic Speaker Upgrade thread it was mentioned to use some 3M strip calk. A box of that will set you back about $30. For $8 you can get a roll of butyl tape at just about any RV parts/repair place. It is usually about 1" wide, but is easily cut with a razor. This is the same stuff that the stock vapor barrier is held in place with and is the same stuff as the 3M strip calk, just a lot cheaper. If you are going to be using the stock wiring like I did the Metra 72-8104 speaker adapters are worthless. Taco tunes sells the adapter you need to connect to the 4 pin connector, but I found that $20 plus shipping for two connectors and a bit of wire a bit expensive. I did manage to track down the manufacturer of the connectors, but that info is on my home laptop. If I can remember when I get home I will update this thread with that info. I decided to de-solder the wires going to the stock tweeters and extend them to the crossovers.

    Onto the amp rack. I wanted as much of the wiring hid as possible. I used the pic below as a basic template for mine. Everything mounts to the other side of it. This allows space for all of the wires to hide behind. Mine is a bit taller than the pic below so it would fill the entire storage bin. I also cut out a bit of the top brace to feed the wires from the bottom to the top. It is held in place in the storage bin with some double sided foam tape. The front of mine is not permanently secured to the bracing either. I used a couple pieces of Velcro to attach it. This allows me to easily pull the it free of the bracing in case I need to get behind it for some reason and to provide a bit of room for my hands when feeding the wires through. That is why I have the two notches at the top. Those allow me to get my fingers in there to pull it free of the bracing. I used some truck bed spray liner to cover it.

    46136842_10213371935238493_2338869778711_f87e2d185c8f3af83b5aa8d047c9dc0358a4ff18.jpg

    I wish I could say everything went without issue, but that wasn't the case. I didn't like the way the power and ground wires were routed through the hole in the amp rack to the line output converter (they crossed vice being flat) so I pulled them back through the hole to adjust them. When I did that I forgot to pull the fuse. Of course the wires touched and there was a very small spark. Got everything the way I liked and went to turn the head unit on. Nothing. The only light I could see was the power light on the line output converter, but the head unit didn't even think about showing any signs of life.

    Started checking fuses and everything was good. Power was getting to the amp and line output converter, but I wasn't getting any power on the remote wire from the head unit. Of course my mind immediately sunk and I thought I just killed the head unit. Decided to check things again and I found a second fuse for the head unit. It has a 20 amp and a 30 amp fuse. The 20 amp fuse had popped. Swapped that out and the head unit turned on. Whew.

    Overall I am now happy. I have a great sounding system. The Kicker Key really changes the dynamics of the sound. I heard things I never knew were in a song and everything is so clear sounding even at max volume. Although, I am still a bit disappointed in the overall loudness. I was hoping I wouldn't have to turn it up as much to get it to scream at me. I have to remind myself that the Kicker Key only puts out 45 watts per channel. That is about what a lot of aftermarket head units put out so the overall volume isn't going to be that loud. The only thing I don't like about the looks is how the speaker wire runs from the amp to the sub. The speaker enclosure has the connection right in the front of it. With the seats up you never see it, but I know it is there. I may go back and drill a hole between the two storage bins behind the amp rack and have the wire come out where the indentation is for the mounting bolt. That way all you would see is about 4 or 5 inches of the speaker wire.



    46134603_10213371877557051_6512013475571_dd377917ae10269339a8fe834b4f807e192057fc.jpg

    46104293_10213372050201367_5790138376304_cb9753a9af774a282016de619e6b919fbf9227a8.jpg

    46142705_10213372052481424_7528502646781_047a8cd4d81609efa6cf5567bc638a678ad3c72a.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2018
    Trance93 and CodyH. like this.
  5. Nov 14, 2018 at 8:34 PM
    #3145
    imovelives

    imovelives Well-Known Member

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    Flowmaster, Pace Edwards Jackrabbit, bedrug, pop n lock TAILGATE lock Kuat Bikerack NV, PioneerNDBC8 front camera, pioneer avh-w4400nex head unit, DWG D10 17x9, good year wrangler ultra terrain AT Kicker speakers font/back Max Modular KBvoodo 10 inch rack (linger on short bed) Freespirit high country medium RTT Pedal Commander
    157FBDA9-5C73-43E6-8049-ED7CE9E59A82.jpg Kickers and some noise dampening

    1D7A1058-D562-4E69-BF48-C8A27A1F7D26.jpg
     
  6. Nov 14, 2018 at 8:46 PM
    #3146
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Be sure your gains are set good. A little bump on those will get a good bit more volume. But too much and you start to get that hiss.

    Also, I hope you’re running the front components in bi-amp mode. This should get you a lot more volume as well.

    As for the power, aftermarket radios are normally only 10-15w rms per channel. Them trying to claim 50w is absolutely absurd. The fuses are typically only 10A so 120w and the fuse blows. Then take out the power the actual radio is using (screen, tuner, cd, etc) and take away at least 20% for Class AB efficiency, and we’re not left with much power for 4 speakers. Though still far better than Toyota’s anemic factory radio output!
     
  7. Nov 15, 2018 at 4:40 AM
    #3147
    Harsh

    Harsh Well-Known Member

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    I am not running the components in bi-amp mode. I based that decision from a 5 Star Car Audio video and from the manual. The manual states "The Bi-Amp mode is to be specifically used without passive crossovers." I am using passive crossovers. Furthermore, I am also powering the rear door speakers from the KK.

    The gains are an issue for me. Amp1, which is driving the front speakers, is all the way down. With the head unit at 3/4 max volume the limiter light is on solid. It won't go off or even flicker until the volume is turned down to about 2/3 max volume. Amp2, which I have driving the rear speakers, is barely turned up before the limiter light starts to illuminate.
     
  8. Nov 20, 2018 at 8:56 PM
    #3148
    oostroma

    oostroma (Boomer)

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    TRD emblems, tinted windows, OEM running boards, AVS vent shades, RMAS upgrade, LED lights in front and rear, interior LED lighting upgrade, LED lighting in bed, touch control dash mount for LED lighting, auxillary 12v and USB jacks in bed, replace all speakers with Infinity, custom mod with Bose tweeters, TRD Pro illumination mod...
    This is what is lying on my dining room table currently.

    IMG_20181120_2321306.jpg
     
  9. Nov 21, 2018 at 2:23 PM
    #3149
    Ridiculiculous

    Ridiculiculous Member

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    @bshammer0
    Thanks so much for your original post. So far, I have only installed the tweeters in my 2017 and as you said, the difference is huge. I completed it only 1/2 hour ago.
    Wish I had done so sooner.
    I hope to get the other 4 speakers in this weekend.
    Again, thanks for the write-up and recommendations
     
  10. Nov 22, 2018 at 2:19 AM
    #3150
    THEWAKLER

    THEWAKLER Well-Known Member

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    Just got everything ordered, many thanks for the great information and equipment links. First time swapping speakers and messing with sound deadening, doesn't sound too difficult after a few beers.
     
    bshammer0[OP] and AugustusJack like this.
  11. Nov 22, 2018 at 5:39 PM
    #3151
    BlueTacoTRD

    BlueTacoTRD Active Member

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    So this is for non-JBL? Crap....I have Entune Premium w/JBL, what speakers would work as an upgrade for me? (Door and dash)... These JBL speakers aren't exactly that great at higher volume
     
    bshammer0[OP] likes this.
  12. Nov 22, 2018 at 6:09 PM
    #3152
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    The JBL amp running them is what struggles at higher volume. You need 2ohm replacements. Which aren’t super common. Or just replace everything. It will cost a bit, but absolutely be worth it
     
  13. Nov 25, 2018 at 12:31 AM
    #3153
    Lifted450

    Lifted450 Well-Known Member

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    I just picked up everything for this install. Parts will be here tues. Im really hoping this helps out. I have a alpine mono and a10in jl sub that i might add at a later date. I just dont like the ideal of not being able to fold my rear seat all the way down with the taco tuns sub box. Is there any sub boxes out tuere that i will be able to fold the rear seats all the way down? I go camping/shooting quite often and i like storing my guns and camping gear on the plastic fold down seats
     
    bshammer0[OP] likes this.
  14. Nov 26, 2018 at 2:19 AM
    #3154
    mauidogg

    mauidogg Well-Known Member

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    Ok so did a ton of reading on this thread. And feel like I am almost ready to go. Here is my dilemma. The prices have been varying a lot due to the holidays and got me looking at slightly higher end stuff. So here goes,

    1. should I install a component set instead of the tweeter and coax setup in the front? I am wondering about the install side of the tweeter. Do I need to just cut and splice for the connection?

    2. If I install the component set where do I put the crossovers given the wiring goes to the tweeter than down to the door?

    3. Recommendations. If I just swap out the front doors and use Subaru tweeters should I use this
    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R9632IX/Infinity-Reference-REF-9632ix.html
    Vs
    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KSC6904/Kicker-44KSC6904.html

    4. Or recommend a nice component set for the front.

    Plan is to match the rears depending on what goes in the front. If I am missing something or if there are better ways to do this please let me know. For now I do not plan on adding an amp. I hope I am happy with the upgrade enough to not do a full system. Keeping stock head unit. The absolute farthest I would take this system is to do components front and rear run off an amp and a single sub.
     
    bshammer0[OP] likes this.
  15. Nov 26, 2018 at 6:07 AM
    #3155
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    I personally would say do components up front. This way your tweeters and woofers will be tuned together and sound their best as compared to mix-and-match.

    ********* makes a harness for the tweeter plug. I’m using it and it works fine. A bit pricey, but I didn’t want to cut factory wiring (even though I’m an installer and am very comfortable doing so.) It’s easy enough to splice and save some money though.

    Crossovers can easily stay tucked inside the dash.

    Use cyber Monday to get a deal and spend as much as you’re willing to. But just plan on adding an amp. Our radios are too anemic to produce good sound if you want anything kore than the bare minimum.
     
    mauidogg[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Nov 26, 2018 at 9:19 AM
    #3156
    mauidogg

    mauidogg Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tip on the taco tunes harness. I will have to figure out how the harness works into the crossover. Can you make a recommendation on the component set?

    You think I would be better off getting something like the kicker key or alpine power pack, or should I get a larger amp and plan on adding a sub? Something to catch the doors and sub in one?

    Something like this
    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R4555A/Infinity-Reference-4555a.html
    Or
    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_530PN5640D/Soundstream-Picasso-Nano-PN5-640D.html

    Edit for links
     
  17. Nov 26, 2018 at 10:20 AM
    #3157
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    As far as brick amp and mono vs 5-channel, it’s a personal preference.
    I know I personally wouldn’t do either of the amps linked, if for no other reason but their size. Those are GIGANTIC.

    Pioneer makes a good budget 5 channel I’ve ised a lot. Very small footprint.

    You also can’t really go wrong with the Kicker Key and a simple mono channel for the sub. I recommend this option if you’re keeping the factory radio.

    If you plan on swapping to an aftermarket radio, a 5-channel is a good option. Keep in mind it will require more work (a run of speed wire and 6-ch RCA’s from the radio to the amp location, and heavier gauge wire from the battery to the amp location)

    As for recomendations on speakers, it’s a lot of personal taste. I’m running Kicker KS series and I love them. Loud but smooth to prevent fatigue. Some tweeters tend to be a bit harsh for my liking and give me a headache. But many people like loud bright highs.
     
    mauidogg[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Nov 26, 2018 at 10:55 AM
    #3158
    skierd

    skierd Well-Known Member

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    For the money I think it would be hard to beat the Infinity 6x9's for the front door. Crutchfield has a component version on sale as well I think. I already have the Subaru kicker tweeters, and I ordered a set of the Infinity Reference 6.5" for the rear from Crutchfield and went with the JL C1-690x 2-ways for my front doors as I found them locally, along with a Key amp, on a great black Friday sale at my local car audio shop. Hoping to install everything early in the new year.

    Had I not already gotten the subaru tweeters, I probably would have gone with components. The ********* wiring adapters would definitely make it easier to wire everything up as there isn't a lot of room up under the windshield to work.
     
    mauidogg likes this.
  19. Nov 26, 2018 at 11:54 AM
    #3159
    mauidogg

    mauidogg Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the info. I like kicker subs. Never heard the mids or highs. I used to have a nice set of mb quart components back in the day. I do like infinity mids and highs though. Those being on sale right now are just right up my alley.

    I want to keep the factory headunit for as long as I can. Before I would never have kept a stock radio, but I enjoy the nav, and all the fuel mileage stuff that’s on there. When it comes time to replace it I am sure I will Be back on here looking for recommendations.

    Sounds like I will most likely go with the kicker key and enjoy the better sq. If I do feel like going with a sub that’s will be another set of questions. I really do not need really loud anymore. I used to have 6 kicker comp 12” in sealed boxes. I think I might be happy with one 10” sub in a sealed box that can reach low, accurate and smooth. Doesn’t have to be very punchy.
     
    bshammer0[OP] likes this.
  20. Nov 26, 2018 at 5:31 PM
    #3160
    mauidogg

    mauidogg Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to keep quoting you but is this the correct tweeter harness you were talking about. https://*********.com/shop/toyota-t...-toyota-tacoma-tweeter-wire-harness-adapters/
     

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