Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Just depends on the type of upgrade you want and your budget.

If you want better than factory and cheap, then yes! Great option.
If you want better than factory and are willing to spend a little more (maybe $500?) then I’d add an amp like the Kicker Key and upgrade to better speakers like the Kicker KS or other component speakers with a bit smoother sound

 

Ok. Thanks. If I do the CS upgrade will I loose my current level of bass?

 

People have reported a bit of bass loss. This is because it is a much stiffer cone, a much thicker voice coil, bigger magnet, etc. Basically, It’s harder to move than the cheap paper factory speaker.

This can be solved typically with a bit of a bump in the bass EQ setting.

 

I have done the Subaru-Kicker tweeter / Kicker CS upgrade, if there is any bass loss, I certainly have not noticed it. With no sub and no amp, I am very happy with the bass I get. At higher volume (20+) when certain songs come on, the truck vibrates quite a bit from the bass. Do the upgrade, adjust your EQ, and allow some time for the speakers to break in. You wont be disappointed.

 

Good to know. Did you do component 6x9’s in the front and 6.5’s in the rear?

 

Not component. The fronts are 6x9 3-way and the rears are 6.75 2-way, same as OP.

 

Just did the tweeters....holy shitballs it makes a difference! If you’ve been lurking and on the fence to do this get moving already. On to save some money up for front and rear speakers now!

 

Thanks OP for starting this thread. I installed the recommended 6 speakers this past weekend and there’s a noticeable improvement over the stock speakers. I also added the Noico sound deadening product in the speaker holes on the interior of the outer door and around where the speaker mounts to the door. When I have more time, I’ll try to properly do all the doors.

A question for those that have done the full doors, was it hard to reinstall the plastic vapor barrier using the same putty material that’s used from the factory? Did anyone have to buy new caulk like adhesive and if so, what kind?

Thanks again everyone who posted their experiences. The project costed $300 for everything - speakers, noico, roller, and plastic door panel removal tools.

 

I just used the same stuff that was there. Seems to be holding up pretty well after pulling it off and putting it back on 3 times per door.

 

For everyone doing this upgrade to the Kickers, are you ordering the

$111 46CSC6934 Kicker CS Series 150 Watt 6 x 9" Car Audio Coaxial Speaker Pair, Black

46CSC6934
since the
43CSC6934
from the OP post is no longer available?

 

If you stay with the Kickers, yes. I am leaning towards another brand, but waiting for a sale or an "accidentally" blown speaker for motivation to buy.

Good luck with your install. Seems to be pretty straight forward.

 

Yes.

 

Hi everyone I may be a little dumb as I didn't realize this was for 3rd gens prior to ordering the Subaru tweeters. With that being said does anyone know if there is a pig tail harness that has the Subaru connector for the tweeter that I can splice into the factory tweeter harness for a '13 as the connector for the 2nd gens are not plug and play. I hope I am not the only DA that failed to pay attention. And I am sorry if this has already been discussed somewhere but I have been searching for 2 days now. Any help is appreciated.

 

I went with the Kicker KS-series for a few more bux (you get rubber surrounds instead of foam -- better longevity, among other improvements). When I first installed them, I was kinda torqued that they seemed to have a lot less bass. Fast forward about a week of playing lots of music, and they've broken in and now I think there's more bass. All in my head? Maybe! Very satisfied now with the speaker swap.

 

Is this with the stock head unit and no amp?

 

Yep, stock headunit, no amp. Been enjoying this for a few weeks, but (after reading about it) I've noticed just how much the stock headunit nerfs the signal to the rear speakers.

So now I have a Kenwood DMX906S headunit on the way. 22 watts per channel should be an improvement, especially for the rears.

 

How much of the computer integration will you loose by replacing the stock HU?

 

Define "computer integration." I don't use the stock headunit for anything except playing music off my iPhone via USB, so for me there's nothing to lose. However, I wanted to keep my steering wheel audio controls so I went with the Metra MRR iDatalink integration box -- which also retains all the Toyota-specific stuff that you could access through the stock headunit.

 

For example, The build in GPS will provide next turn info on the centre display between the gauges. The stereo will also display the music info on the centre display as well. What about the cell phone integration with the steering controls that allow connect and hang up function?

 

I don't have the unit yet, but I've heard the answer is no, maybe, and yes with the Maestro unit. Honestly, those first two things seem so useless -- I have never displayed the music or GPS turns (god the navigation interface is so bad on Entune) other than in the first 5 minutes of owning the truck just to check it out.

For that matter, I can count the number of times I've used the phone integration on one hand, too.