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Lastly. At a MINIMUM you will need all these things. I really couldn’t imagine doing it without these. And expect your fingers to hurt after. I used the back of the orange pry tool to smooth out my Noico. Worked pretty well. Sure a roller would work better but I didn’t have one.

 

And I would say if you’re like me. Set aside at least 6 hours. I believe it took me in prep, searching for answers on things like the brackets for the speakers and which screws to use, (I used black ones with the little flat backs for front speakers and shorter black ones with no backs for rear speakers) and doing the tweeters also and clean up almost 7 hours.

 

The foam helps with the sound deadening, otherwise the sheets are really to stop vibration, not necessarily deaden sound.

I didn't feel like messing with it so went a taco tunes box and sub. Will switch out the stock speakers eventually but don't need it now. They are loud enough, but very muddy.

 

These little things are a source of noise. FWIW I remove all these & wrap butyl around the clip side. You can take some off a scrap piece of damper. A piece about the size of a small pea is enough to do several clips. Stretch it out as far as you can, right before it breaks, and wrap it around the clip 2 or 3 times - keeps it in place when re-installing the panel and stops vibration on the clip side. Tesa tape works too.

 

Umm... maybe it is a tinnitus issue?

 

Maybe. Either way cant hear them. I purchased a 75wattx4 channel and lc6i lastnight from crutchfield. Going to run speaker wire to lc6i then the lc6i will power my two amps and ill have an amp for speakers and one for sub. Ill post a full writeup incase anyone else wants to do this as well.

 

Looking at the amount of hassle vs the payoff & price, I decided to go for speaker baffles instead. I will probably do more insulation and vibration proofing when I install a subwoofer.

 

Looking forward to reading it!

 

Will be very clean i will be purchasing power distribution blocks etc and will be all purdy on my mr marv amp rack im line-xing. Ill post a link here with pics when all done. About 3 weeks out

 

Those clips are to provide structure when you are installing the speakers in a cut-out hole in plywood or masonite board (like a rear "deck" or package tray) or thin plastic such as door cards or kick panels. They literally clip onto the surface on both sides of the holes you drill in the mounting surface. There's not much need for them with the Metra adapters, because the screws have plenty of purchase in the plastic channels of the adapters. But it can't hurt to add them behind the screws... as long as they don't start to back off and vibrate loose.

 

Kudos to you, that is one hell of a good job. Now you also need to install a foam or Noico pad on the inside surface of the door panel, behind the speaker, to cancel out sound waves from the back of the speaker that will bounce around inside the door. Foam is actually better for this application than Noico/Dynamat... the foil will reflect sound waves even though the pad will cancel vibrations in the door skin sheet metal. So, get some cheap closed cell foam padding or "egg crate" acoustic foam tile and glue it on with contact cement.

 

No, I have the exact same problem. I definitely have to turn it out higher to get the same volume. This makes sense with the stiffer cones and larger magnets. I've been exploring getting an amp to push them as well

 

I appreciate the reply. After tinkering with them then last night i think i made it work - but not quite to the standards i would have liked. My screws unfortunately don’t have the width to get any hold into the plastic Metra adapters.

 

The impedance on the Kickers (3.5 Ohms) is slightly higher than the Infinity's (3.0) I bought. I find I need less volume than with the stock speakers. Still needs low bass, so I am looking/saving for subwoofer.

 

There is no way in hell im going back into those doors to do anything. Haha. Thanks for the advice though.

 

I could see where some closed cell foam could be helpful behind the speakers in the doors although the Noico/Dynamat worked fine for me when I did it. As far as taking the doors apart I am somewhat surprised some have had so much trouble but perhaps I wasn't as OCD. I ripped those panels off, slid the door handle through (without disconnecting) on all doors and even took the doors back apart to do sound deadening later on. The Noico DID reduce the bass a bit on the 6x9s but it also did make the cabin quieter and I think made better definition in sound. Still can't imagine a better way to spend around $250 on the truck with crappy stock sound though I know some will always want MORE POWER.

This thread was never about replacing OEM+ solutions or others. It was about improving dramatically on the crappy stock setup with some great sounding speakers at a bargain and consensus for most is that it hits the mark.

So - If you are dying to go for MORE power, amps, powered subs, etc., this may not be the solution for you - at least not without adding some more stuff. IF you're looking to dramatically improve the quality of sound on a budget, 80% of folks will be stunned and very happy with the quality of upgrade for not a lot of money. I sure am!

 

Yeah, that is a clean install - well-done Pike's! On the door energy, here's some discussion on a cheap & easy solution: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...on/372914-more-door-treatments-guy-legit.html

MOST deadening in a vehicle is pretty pricey, but this seems to be the lone exception.

 

How would I install this with my factory 2 gen entune system. I am missing some low end and would like to find it. (It's been 20 years since i have done any audio)

 

That's a pretty cool DIY project. It's amazing to hear the difference when he taps on the front door vs. the quarter panel vs. the rear door. That front door has a nice solid thud to it.

 

Glad I seen this, I enjoy my music sounding good with out having to crank the shit out of it.