Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Fascists? We don't do fascists....

 

@Pchop probably best you stick with your gumboots and mud, leave the wood to the experts.

 

I said that already. Few pages back.

 

Impressive mudwork on this build, eh @Pchop ?

 

Actually, Oz does do really nice concrete work.

The key to a nice build IS the foundation.

 

That's easy to agree with.

 

Got all my fascias and barge boards sanded and edges broken , will coat them tomorrow and start putting them up on Monday

Going to use Lifetime Wood Treatment on my fascias

http://www.valhalco.com/

 

GRK brand has shown up in this market at the big box stores now. Timberlock was the only comparable product I had seen to date in my layperson wanderings.

 

GRK screws are all we use here

https://www.grkfasteners.com/system-files/grk-catalog-jan-2019

 

Its amazing how far simple physics concepts can take you in terms of.throught process. Think like water. Think like gravity. One of the most successful water conveyance engineers at my firm has only a BA in physics, plus his PE. He also has shitloads of business sense.

 

And all your sausages are stainless, IIRC.

 

goes without saying

 

Those are fungi. Speaking of which, the friendly stain should make the local moss happy.

 

Fascia / barge board material all coated , I'll start putting those up tomorrow

 

So I've been putting up my fascias and barge boards yesterday and today , have 2 pieces to go will be finished in the morning then I'll take a few pics of finished product

This is how I install by myself ~

For the fascias (boards running level) , I make a couple helpers that screw to the side of the rafter tails . The top outside edge of the fascias is in plane with the top of the roof sheathing so I can figure out the drop for the projection that I rest the fascia on and I leave them about 1/4" low and then shim the fascias up to plane , this gives me a bit of wiggle room to get a nice straight fascia line that doesn't necessarily follow the ups and down of the framing




I fix the fascias through the back of the sub-fascia with screws and fender washers at joints and about every 5 or 6' . This serves 2 purposes , #1 , the fender washers don't let the screws embed into the sub-fascia so they will draw the fascia tight to the sub-fascia and #2 , after I get my pieces on in a long run (3 / 14' pieces make up my 40' runs) , if I need to adjust pieces up or down to straighten the run , I can back out the screws and make adjustments as necessary , up and down , or shim in and out . When I'm happy with the alignment I shoot 3" galvanized ring shank gun spikes through sub-fascia into fascia for final attachment



Barge boards (boards running down roof pitch at gable ends) get similar approach

I screw an approx 10" piece of 3/4" plywood about a foot from top and bottom of barge board with excess length projecting toward roof edge



I can then rest the barge onto the roof , which planes the top to top of deck , and then run a screw down into roof deck in each to secure it from moving , I then can make any marks / adjustments / cuts as needed without worrying about it falling




For the top cut when barge meets barge at the roof peak , I butt the barge boards together , and then run a circular saw through the joint cutting both at the same time and ensuring that the fit is good

When I'm happy with fit , it gets screwed on / nailed through sub-barge same as fascias do

 

Jesus. You written a book?
Longest post I’ve ever seen you make.

Didn’t know you knew words.

 

I have the best words

 

Good thing OZ-T put in pictures then, eh?

 

Go back to post 137............