Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Wow, that's a super nice job. Will you have to use protective plates over the wiring above the header? I'm sure with your skill set, you would measure everything to lay out where the fasteners would go.

 

Using the plastic electrical boxes with built in vapour barrier. Brings up the topic of how OZ-T intends to sheet in the interior. after insulating and vapour barrier?

 

no protection plates needed , everything is drilled centre of 2x6 studs

 

insulation with 6 mil vapour barrier , then 1/2" plywood , then 1/2" drywall

all the boxes will get 1/2" box extensions

 

sounds and looks like you might have a obsessive compulsive personality disorder

 

I just think its being a good builder

 

^this

 

Got to agree

 

Between that and the outside layers, should make for a quiet shop, from the outside.

 

yep , I think so

 

How I'm dealing with outside plugs and the exterior insulation

We're using Arlington Inbox's . I've used these for about 10 years for exterior plugs with in use covers , and they come in different depths and configurations for various siding thicknesses .

Box mounted to wall and sealed to plywood primary air barrier as well as Typar secondary air barrier with Siga Wigluv tape




How the box depth works in relation to the 2" thick Rockwool Comfortboard80 mineral wool , and a scrap of 1x4 representing the strapping that will hold the Comfortboard80 to the building as well as act as a 3/4" rainscreen .

The Inbox protrudes a further 1 1/2" beyond the rainscreen plane to accommodate the 1" corrugated J moulding plus 1/2" for the in use cover to be able to operate



Arlington Industries Inbox ~

http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/inbox/

We got everything run and all lights and switches tied in plus everything tied into the panel , only thing left to do is connect the table saw island conduit into the side of panel and we're just waiting on an EMT fitting to finish that up

 

Yesterday we finished up electrical rough-in by connecting table saw island conduit that runs under slab to table saw island services hub , in to the electrical panel with EMT , allowing for us to pull wire for island later and also providing an upgrade path for any future wiring changes in the island




Last bit of electrical work we need to do involves trenching our conduit outside from where we dead ended everything at corner of the building over to the drop pole so we can have new meter base connected to the utility , machine will hopefully be coming next week for that

Next up I moved outside to prep for adding the 2" Rockwool Comfortboard80 exterior insulation

When I was framing roof , I hadn't completely finalized in my mind how I wanted to deal with the top of the wall / rafter connection as far as how the Comfortboard would terminate there , so I just cut the rafter bird's mouths conventionally , to width of wall and plywood sheathing and did not allow for thickness of 2" Comfortboard

Subsequently , I decided I wanted the Comfortboard to run to top of wall so that it fully insulated the double top plates to eliminate that thermal bridge , but that meant I needed to remove a 2" notch out of the 2x12 rafters flush to the top of wall

This is what I came up with to simplify the process of cutting the notch on 50+ rafters

I made a little jig that is 2" thick with an approx 1 5/8" gap to slide easily on to rafter tails . When the jig is against the wall and slid tight up against the rafter , the top of the legs on either side is the height I need to cut out (ie flush to top of wall / rafter birdsmouth)

It secures to the plywood with 4 screws , and I then use my Fein Multimaster to cut notch by running it tight against the jig



In position , ready to cut




Resulting notch




How the notch works with the Comfortboard

 

IMO You can really tell a pro from their willingness to 'Think, Act, Do'. Most of us would wing it a couple times and probably after about 5 or 10 say, jeez a jig would make life easier, ah f it I'm already up on the ladder. You've got 1000x of examples of forethought throughout this whole build and its these little things that really set you apart.

 

ive had a lot of mixed answers on this, but are you concerned with those rafters potentially splitting at that 90 degree cut where your insulation slots in? Some of the guys I learned from would insist on drilling that spot out as a round hole to avoid it splitting along the grain, others said it doesn’t make a difference, if it’s going to split it’s going to split. You seem to work with more large timber, do you worry about that?

 

I actually have had this discussion with people before too , on a rafter I'm not overly concerned about a split there , it's essentially the exact same cut that would have been made if I was making a birdsmouth for a 2x8 wall . If it was a joist or a stair stringer with more dynamic load it would be a different thing but the loading on the rafter is borne by the level cut in contact with the top plate so what happens exterior of the wall is not really doing much work .

There will also be blocking added between the rafters that will be flush to face of Comfortboard and the soffits back-framed flat so more connection of the rafter tail to the rest of the structure so , no , I'm not concerned about it

 

wow..not that much more, that can be said...

 

We had big wet snow / wind event here with trees down and power lines on the road wiped out for 2 days , just got power back on last night but there's still a bunch of snow hanging around with heavy rain forecast for this week . Machine delayed so likely no major progress on shop now till after Christmas

 

Pretty lazy Boxing Day here but got a bit bored and went out to the shop to fine tune my cabinet / countertop and tablesaw island sizes and layout

Many thanks to @23Skidoo for some hard measurements on his Festool Kapex compound mitre saw , that allowed me to alter my original plan for the 36" high , full length chopsaw / workbench that runs along the whole 33' length of the wall on left in this pic



My benchtop depth along that wall and where it wraps the corner under the windows will be 27" deep , 36" high and benchtop runs right into window openings where they intersect . The small strip of blue styro under my temporary chopsaw station represents front of workbench

The tablesaw island is sized for the saw I hope to be able to afford eventually and install in here , may happen soon , may have to wait a while but I'm laying everything out around it's specs so I don't need to make any modifications later .

Tablesaw island is based on the Sawstop Industrial 5HP saw with the 36" rip extension to the right as well as the Sawstop in line cast router table attached to the left extension of the tablesaw .

I've also laid out for a full width (router table + tablesaw) fixed outfeed table 4' deep beyond the saw

The styrofoam strips in middle of floor represent the tablesaw island .

Foreground is tablesaw to the right with 16" router table extension to the left , 4' full width outfeed table beyond that . Small piece of foam in tablesaw footprint represents centreline of tablesaw blade and in background at window on far right there is a piece of foam representing tablesaw blade centreline so you can see how that lines up with casement opening window in case I need to rip boards longer than 16'

Foam strip on floor at back wall represents front edge of 27" deep workbench where it wraps corner

I'm pretty happy with how this has all laid out . I have 3'6" between long wall workbench and tablesaw island , and between the tablesaw island and the backwall workbench there is 9' which leaves me lots of room for a mobile assembly table ( I have a cool idea for a segmented nested assembly table )

 

You HAD to have done something post worthy in the last week and a half, right?