Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Drywall arrived this morning

I don't know , maybe they could have brought a bigger truck lol , WTF , like literally had 3" on either side of gate coming in and about 1" to the overhead telephone line




this is pretty civilized way to unload the truck and load the building though




Boarders will be here Mon or Tue , I have a bit of back framing in bathroom for the exhaust fan drop and a bit of blocking plus now that drywall is in , I can do my temporary framing infill on double doors

 

Got a text from my drywaller bud that they aren't going to make it till Tuesday which is fine with me as I didn't finish everything on my list over the weekend

Still need to add sound insulation to bathroom interior walls and temporarily frame in and insulate the double door rough opening

I did get the last of my blocking installed for future cabinetry support and also back framed the drop in the bathroom for the exhaust fan and vented the fan

Electrician is going to stop in tomorrow and wire it up



I also built and installed a Birch plywood box insert for the cubby where the hydronic heating manifold will mount so that will look finished when you open the cabinet that will be there

I had the make the bottom separate from the rest of the case in order to install it and glue it together once everything was in place , hence the clamps in the pic

 

Got my fresh air intake for woodstove installed today , electrician wired up bathroom exhaust fan and I also put in all the Rockwool Safe n Sound insulation in bathroom walls





drywallers start boarding first thing tomorrow morning

 

Got double door temporary infill framing done this morning while boarders were working on the ceilings




They got about 3/4 of the board up , will easily finish boarding tomorrow . Thankfully we had no issues with tucking the drywall on top of the timber rafters

 

Hot damn that's looking nice!

 

Props to anyone that takes on their own drywall (I'm looking at you @23Skidoo) but this is why I'm happy to hire it out

3 guys , 1 and 1/2 days , all boarded and scrapped out , this would have taken me a month lol . Probably start taping tomorrow

 

Looks great!
A month is about right.

 

That's just too nice to be a shop. Looks like a living room. I could live in there. I'm super impressed. Great job!

 

Tape and bead all on this morning , start coating tomorrow




While my bud was taping inside I started installing the Comfortboard on outside of building . Sheets are just tacked on with 6 washered screws per sheet to get them secured to building , finished install will be 1x4 strapping screwed into studs to hold Comfortboard tight to building and provide backing for screwing on corrugated metal siding





I did down side wall you can't see in pictures as well , thats the end of my 4x8 sheets , the rest will be covered with 2x4 sheets of Comfortboard

4x8 sheets of Comfortboard are generally unavailable in Western Canada , I just lucked into a remnant of a special order my lumber supplier had in stock and purchased the 2 lifts he had left , standard size here is 2x4

 

Do you tape the seams? And is this the standard on new houses?

 

no tape on the Comfortboard , its only acting as insulation and not a weather barrier . It is vapour open and hydrophobic so does not absorb moisture , it runs off it

This is not code yet in BC but will be in next 5 years or so (effective R-22 wall assembly) , I'm using my shop to work out details for these code changes so I can figure out how best to incorporate them and work out any bugs in the install sequence before doing it on a client job

 

What is the reasoning for using comfort board instead of the typical pink 2" 4x8? Is the comfortboard able to dry through it if water gets behind it?

 

I've never seen pink 2"'4x8 sheets but assuming that they would be fibreglass , they would not have the same advantages as the Comfortboard . The Comfortboard is dense enough to allow for strapping to be applied over it without compressing so it is able to carry the weight of the siding , it sheds water and does not lose any R value if wet (you can actually put it against a foundation and backfill against it with no R value loss) , and it is vapour open meaning any bulk water or water vapour in the wall assembly can dry to the outside , plus insects and rodents do not like to nest in it

 

Hang on , just realized you probably mean pink styrofoam sheets

styrofoam can work but can introduce issues in a heating climate where you can potentially end up with a vapour lock inside your wall cavity because standard building practice here is to have a 6 mil polyethylene vapour barrier on the interior as your primary air and vapour barrier . Pink or blue styrofoam is XPS foam and its permeability means that at approx 2" thick it is considered a vapour barrier , so that will allow no drying to the outside . XPS has a slightly better R value (R-5 / inch vs R-4 / inch for Comfortboard) but has too many disadvantages versus mineral wool for this cowboy , no drying , boring insects like it because its soft like rotten wood , and has a flammability issue

 

What flashing detail are you doing at the bottom of the assembly for drainage/ventilation?

 

At bottom of wall there are those little 2" x 1 1/2" grounds that I posted picture of earlier . They are canted 10 degrees on top and wrapped top and face with Vycor Deck Protector



They go back at housewrap plane with Comfortboard sitting on them so they plane out at front , any water at back of Comfortboard / face of housewrap will be directed by them to face of the ground

There will be 1x4 strapping run horizontally on approx 18" centres on top of Comfortboard , screwed into studs . This is what I will attach corrugated metal siding to .

The 1x4 provides a 3/4" gap between the "valleys" of the corrugated and the Comfortboard , the "hills" of the corrugated will act as vertical vents for a convection current for drying

At bottom ground instead of a 3/4" piece of 1x4 strapping horizontally , there will be a 3/4" perforated aluminum rainscreen drain horizontally with 6" long by 2" wide pieces of 3/4" plywood (6" side oriented vertically) inserted in the rainscreen vent at approx 6" centres .

This arrangement provides a free draining and venting area of about 4" every 6" of rainscreen drain while providing solid backing for attaching the siding bottom element

The corrugated will have a horizontal L shaped transition flashing at bottom , its wall leg spans across the gaps in the plywood and provided a solid surface for the corrugated sheets so they stay in plane with the 1x4

There is a similar arrangement at top of wall siding / bottom of soffit so that the rainscreen cavity is not only drained but vented to create a drying convection current

That might be hard to visualize , I'll take a couple pics when I get to that point

 

Is Comfortboard based on higher density Mineral wool (ie Rockwool) material? Its characteristics and application on the outside, along with outside cladding choices i would think makes it good for homes in an area that face interface fire risks.

 

The Comfortboard80 is same product as Comfortbatt just compressed to a higher density , yes

They actually make another commercial product that is compressed to an even higher density , Comfortboard120

 

I like the idea of the corrogated metal with its venting, and i gather the rainscreen will keep flying insects out of there from making nests in the cavity spaces.
Imagined a vented space like that venting right into the attic, on the shaded side of a building such that drawing cool(er) air from way down low near ground level, and venting out the top roof vent would be an idea to help vent/keep an attic space cooler in summer, creating a draft.


On another note, you've got to be excited, looking forward to use that space on the inside, really the whole space with its accessible outdoor storage, and the efficiencies gained in producing work in there!
Quality in, Quality out.