Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Only got a part day in today but got all the siding transition and window top & bottom trims milled and sanded

This is the profile common to the siding transition and window trims

3 3/8" front to back , 1 1/2" front face , 2" rear face , 10 degree slope on top , capillary break kerf on bottom



turned out to be a pretty decent quality selection from the material I had on hand

 

How do you keep all your boards sitting so long and not warping out Pete? Do you strap them together or something?

 

they are just stacked under cover

 

Surprises me that they dont warp on you.

 

I get the odd one that goes haywire but for the most part they are good

I make sure the surface they are stacked on is flat and boards are well supported , sticker them if they have any moisture but other than that no special treatment

 

I'm assuming you move over to the tablesaw for the bevel cut and kerf. Do you use some form of feed support on those long boards? Like the jessem stock guides or something? https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides

 

yes , 10 degree bevel is ripped on the tablesaw , required 2 passes due to blade height limitation , one from either side of the board . I used an old school featherboard clamped to the saw table

This was all milled on my DeWalt 744 portable tablesaw , outfeed consists of a 3' aluminum sawhorse

I have Jessem stock guides for my router table but not for the tablesaw

 

We don't have Southern Yellow Pine here so our norm on seeing warped wood is not as bad as what you are used to in the US.

 

I just built a knife target using 4x4's from the local big box store. They were all twisted to some degree, but it didn't matter much for that project.

The guy across the street recently brought home a trailer stacked with thick, rough-cut planks that still have the bark on the edges. I'm wondering what it's for.

 

A knife target? As in something to throw knives at?

Didn't know you were into throwing blades.

 

LOL. Yeah, I built an end-grain target, just cut a bunch of 4x4 blocks and glue them together and put a 2x4 frame around it. Lots of YouTube videos of people doing a better job than me. It's actually for my wife, she got some throwing knives and I don't want to be a target myself. But then she bought me some throwing axes and knives so we could do it together.

 

How romantic!!!

 

Another weekend , another 2 days to work on the shop

I made a mistake when I milled my trims for the windows last weekend and basically the top and bottom trims for this front window set were unusable due to a large spike knot right through the middle of both of them , one actually snapping in half when I moved it




So I needed to mill a new set for this window . Realized if I was semi-clever I could get the top , bottom , both sides and centre trim out of this clearish 10' cedar 6x6 . Its already gone through the table saw one pass (kerf on bottom) before I thought to take a pic




Window set all milled up and sanded , top , bottom , 2 / 5' x 4" blanks that will become the 2 / 2' sides and 2' centre trim plus some off cuts . Bonus to milling it all from the single 6x6 is that all the trims will match in grain and colour




After milling up that set , I worked on finishing the 1x4 cladding battens where they were missing , applied the perforated aluminum drain at wall bottom and installed some 3/4" plywood blocks that will allow me to secure the horizontal base flashing for the corrugated metal siding , while still allowing the drain to work both as a drain and air intake for the rainscreen cavity

 

Had a couple free days this week so I picked away at a bit more unfinished business on the shop

Milled up and applied the flat soffit trim that hides the plastic soffit vent intake .

It's 2 1/2" wide made from soffit material rips and mounted to a 1 1/4" strip of 1/2" plywood I spray painted black .

The plywood is screwed to the soffit trim with 2" screws from the back about every 10"- 1' . Pushing the plywood up tight to the soffit sets the trim down an even 5/8" , I then screw that to the building through the 1/2" strip with screws hidden between the soffit and the soffit trim in the 5/8" shadow gap . Makes for a very sturdy connection and the trim is quite rigid and doesn't sag .

I used a 8mm sipo domino to join the pieces where they butt together end to end




Soffit trim mounted , 5/8" intake gap




How it looks from ground level , no more ugly plastic soffit vent




After I got those trims on either side of the building , I finished up the areas that had missing Rockwool Comfortboard


Front



Back



Next job is to install the exterior trims at the siding transitions and around the windows and door

 

Whats the hole for?

 

Guess I missed that in the reading part.

 

the one on that end is actually for an 8mm Sipo domino to connect to the transition trim later but it is milled in the same position as the ones I used to join the pieces end to end

 

Looks good! Down here in the south that gap would be an artificial reef for paper wasp nests and dirt daubers. lol.