Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

True story.

 

I have bats roosting on my trims like that on my house

 

At least bats are beneficial. LOL

 

yeah , I have a couple bat houses up too

 

I have some more time to work on the shop over the next couple weeks before I start my next big job

In the last couple days I've been prepping the gable ends for the shingle siding by laminating 1/2" plywood over the Comfortboard to carry the shingles and I papered the plywood with 60 minute building paper for a moisture barrier between the shingles and plywood . I will install a plastic matrix rainscreen mat prior to shingle installation .

I started fitting my transition trims that divide the shingles above from corrugated metal siding below .

The transition trims are at the elevation of the flat soffits on each side of the building , the bottom of the transition trim at the same elevation as the soffit trim I showed earlier . This produces a single elevation all the way around the building for the top of the corrugated metal .

One complication of the transition trims being at this elevation is that on the wide exterior overhang side , the transition trim terminates into the 2 in 12 soffit . This requires me to mill a 80.5 degree cut on the end of the board . Not easy to do accurately .

This is how I solved that problem . I made a square shallow plywood box with my track saw to make sure it was perfectly square , with the total height of the sides so that with the chop saw fully depressed there was still 1/8" of clearance between the box and the chop saw motor and body of the saw .

I screwed a plywood subfence to the chop saw fence through the stock screw holes in the Makita LS1013 fence .

To that plywood subfence I could clamp my box , and to the box I could securely clamp my 18' 2"x4" trim stock perpendicular to the fence allowing me to cut an accurate 80.5 degree cut on the end of my trim by setting the saw at 9.5 degrees

Excuse the state of the shop , its a pigpen in there right now

 

Thats what I would have done too.

 

Back transition trim test fit ~




Front and back sets stained ~




Tomorrow they go up for good and I can start on the window trims

 

and they are up





Sorry for the wide angle lens , couldn't get further away on this end

 

The strapping for the exterior sheathing i presume is nailed through the Comfortboard to the underlying plywood covered in house wrap? Would that sheer strength support an exterior treatment such as Hardie board, or stucco?

 

GRK R4 screws directly into the studs . Yes , there is a supplemental table for BC Building Code approvals for siding type , strapping spacing and fastener embedment , I'll see if I can find a link to it , hang on

 

I have a 1960s era house looks like ill be getting. Pretty sure exterior walls are 2x4, so when looking at my reno options, for the outside thinking of stripping off the original stucco,amd adding an exterior layer for better thermal performance. Suspect the exterior will be 1x6 on the diagonal under the stucco, and probably almost petrified hard.

 

Tell me if this doesn't work and I can tell you where to find the guide for yourself

Everything in this guide is "deemed to conform to code"

Fastener tables on page 27

https://www.bchousing.org/sites/def...-Effective-Walls-Residential-Construction.pdf

 

Thank you Pete, yes download worked to my phone, ill get it on the laptop as well when I'm back in the office.

 

If you have any questions you can pm me

 

Rear trim straightened , fully screwed off and Home Slicker rainscreen matrix applied

I'm packing it in for today

 

Front trim straightened , fully screwed off and rainscreen matrix applied




Close up of detailing above door or window penetrations ~

our BC Building Code calls for a 10mm drained and vented capillary break (rainscreen cavity) between the WRB and the siding . Above doors and windows there needs to be a flashing that protects the opening in the building envelope directly above the door or window (above the trim no bueno) that is lapped by the WRB , creating a continuation of the weather barrier . The Comfortboard on my building complicates this a bit but how I achieved it was run a flashing tape through the Comfortboard layer , extending down 2" where the wall leg of the head flashing would eventually be installed , with the lower release paper on the foil tape left on . After the head flashings were installed I pulled the lower release paper on the foil flashing tape and stuck it down to the wall leg of the head flashing creating a continuous flashing back to the WRB .

Our head flashings must also include an end dam to prevent wind driven rain from travelling sideways off the end of the head flashing and behind the siding . The end dam height must be 1/10 the value in mm of the 1 in 5 driving rain wind pressure in Pascals for your area from the official climate data for your region , in my case the end dams must be 13/16" tall .

A perforated aluminum drain / vent is installed above the opening that the rainscreen can drain out of and air allowed into the cavity (in this case the Home Slicker plastic rainscreen matrix )





PS ~ That flashing is the colour of my corrugated metal siding which I think is going to look pretty sexy , Weathered Zinc , matches my windows pretty well too

 

I understood the individual words in that post, but not the concepts. I suppose, if I saw it done, it would make sense.

 

About the flashings ?

 

Kind of, and how you installed the foil tape. Maybe I just don't know what WRB means?

I'm just an armchair analyst. I can swing a hammer, but the more complicated things like this is beyond me.

 

I *think* WRB - Wool Rock Board, that insulation layer. But I am in the same boat. I think what he means is that the tape goes from the flashing to behind the insulation, so even if water does get back there it is channeled out.