Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

if she comes out here

 

I have a routine , not just this job , but anytime I'm building something , where I walk away , and then come back later and look at what I achieved during that day / week / phase of the project to appreciate it but also get another 'first impression' which is generally when you see things you not only did well , but things you could improve next time or even pull apart and redo before its too late this time

On my shop build I usually wander back after dinner

Couple weeks away from my deadline . I think I'm going to make it .

 

Had some other work stuff going on this morning moving in to my new client job but had a chance this afternoon to select , order , number , sand and dress the 1x6 v-joint boards for my corner window panel

 

Coated these boards with Sunfast yesterday so I could install them this morning

For the grain wrap cuts , you don't want to have to flip the saw back and forth from 45 degree mitre to square , you want to set your mitre cut and not mess with it , fortunately for me I own 3 of these saws so I set one up for the mitre cuts and another for the square cuts




I want the mitre cut to be just over 45 degrees , in this case I need almost 46 degrees because of the build up on my corner over the exterior insulation . These saws only go to 45 degrees so I tape a cardboard shim on the table to ramp the board so the saw set on 45 degrees actually results in the mitre angle I'm trying to achieve



To make a grain wrap , I figure out the total length of board I need for both sides of the wrap , and add a bit of waste leeway , in this case my blanks needed to be about 30" for my approx 14' pieces on either side of the corner

I then cut my mitre at the 1/2 distance of the board (I have a pencil mark on my temporary fence showing me where to put end of board so my cut is approx 1/2 distance)



I set that piece aside and flip the board so its getting cut on the ramped side of the saw



On the second cut you want to cut as close to the short side of your original mitre cut as possible so that you minimize the amount of material removed between the pieces for the most accurate alignment of the grain



Holding the 2 pieces together to demonstrate how that works to wrap the grain around the corner



The pieces get cut to length as required at installation , shortening them on the square ends so the wrap in not effected

Repeat 12 times

 

It's kind of funny. For normal installations, the second and third boards from the top would be the ideal ones to use because they're clear but for this one, they look kind of boring in comparison to the others with some character.

Obviously looks amazing, though!

 

exactly why I laid out all my boards ahead of time , I actually went through 18 bundles of 3' cedar 1x6 I have to pick out these boards so they would flow together how I wanted , and technically they're all clears haha

 

1) That does not surprise me
2) I can absolutely see what you were going for and it looks fantastic.

I guess I was referring to the lack of variation in color for those two instead of the lack of defects in all of them.

 

Oz, can I pick your brain for a bit?

 

Jawohl

 

I was going to ask about any concerns of water intrusion on the feature panel corner, but then clued in that it’s T+G with a sloped trim at the bottom. So that takes care of that.

Looks Ah Maize Zing!

Is the exterior complete now? (Until the doors that never happened?)

 

T&G and its over a rainscreen cavity

just need to do around the man door after I get the steel door rehung in permanent jamb . Door shop had to order a wider sill than they usually stock was supposed to arrive last Friday , will find out tomorrow

 

I took up the crappy cardboard laminate in my living room yesterday, and found narrow plank red oak. I don't know enough about the look of wood grain to know if it's quarter sawn or not.

Anyway, it's unfinished in the center and I think I can sand it all down and refinish it. Obviously I'll have to stain it to cover some of the stains that are too bad.

My question is, do you have any recommendations for a top coat that can stand up to young kids and a dog?

 

@My Name is Rahl You didn't ask me but I'm a flooring guy so I'll throw out my opinions. That is plain sawn, not quarter sawn. Your classic select grade oak there. You scored! Three coats of an oil based polyurethane floor finish such as Duraseal is what I would probably recommend. There are also lots of good water based options out there too. My advice is call a local hardwood flooring company and see what finish they use. Don't buy anything from the big box stores because typically it is all trash.

 

Ok. I really appreciate the response.

Another question then. I'll be staining it, but I also have been reading recently about using tinted toner on wood after the stain. Can you please explain what that is and why people are (to me) suddenly using it in addition to stain?

 

Damn, dawg. Dem sills.

 

Ok your sills are garbage compared to that.

 

I've never heard of a tinted toner being used on top of a stain. If I'm staining a floor it always just gets two clear coats over top. If a customer doesn't want the full depth of straight stain on their floors then we can tint our sealer coat with a stain of their choice - something like a ratio of 1 part stain to 3-4 parts sealer, and then two clear coats over that. Maybe that's what they were referring to?

 

Ya got me.

 

My damn door sill got delayed , won't arrive till end of next week which totally fucks up my schedule of finishing up all my siding this weekend

 

Door sill still not arrived yet

Today my plumber bud came and we got water pressurized in the shop , toilet up and running , sink and faucet installed and refilled the hydronic tubing , got the boiler running and verified the shop septic pumping chamber was pushing over to the septic tank at the house

also took my first test drive of the toilet , forgot to take a pic , my bad