Pricing Help - Feedback - Negotiating today!

Not trying to beat a dead horse but I wanted some direct feedback before I head into the gauntlet today and propose some offers. Are these offers realistic? Too low?

Looking for feedback/advice here. I'm basically driving myself a little bonkers trying to pit a few Toyota dealers against eachother. Lots of time, searching, emailing and calling. Anyway, after spending way to many hours doing this I wanted to see if I'm crazy for making these potential offers...just to clarify this is what I believe is at/near the lowest they will go. These offers are including the current $1000 rebate(not sure if this is my area or nationwide) and I would bring my own financing(Cash+ a USAA check). Thoughts?!

Note: These are all 4x4 Longbeds and within reasonable distance of me. My only real requirement is the Tech Package. They all vary in options and price and I am wide open to all these choices ie. willing to take the least expensive option if they were to take that deal or I'm willing to take the most expensive one if they were to accept it.

1) Off-Road (least favorite color) $38,490 MSRP Tech is the Only Option
$35,537 Online Price
My Offer: $33,396 including d/h, plus tax

2) Off-Road $38,943 MSRP Carpet Mats, Tip, Tech, Spare Tire Lock, Wheel Locks
$35,898 Online Price
My Offer: $34,849 including d/h, plus tax

3) Sport $39,398 MSRP Tech, All Weather Mats, tonneau
$36,321 Online Price
My Offer: $35,304 including d/h, plus tax

4) Off-Road (Not my favorite color) $41,225 MSRP Premium, Tech
$37,971 Online Price
My Offer: $36,131 including d/h, plus tax

5) Off-Road (Color I like) $41,225 MSRP Premium, Tech
$37,971 Online Price
My Offer: $37,131 including d/h, plus tax

 

Are thes prices on the road? If not add around here you will need to add ~$2500 in sales taxes.

 

Including D/H, Plus Tax
*Edited original post to reflect this. If I was referring to OTD I would have said that. Tax is tax, so I'm not sitting around doing that math

 

Hey I don't think that you are too far off on pricing, especially because the trucks are on the lot. I do see you are in Colorado so I don't know how much the dealers are willing to negotiate.

I got $3400 off of the MSRP, including a $500 rebate. This was for a cement, 4 hours away, 2 month wait before arrival, total internet deal.

I would assume you can do better in person, with trucks on the lot. Also you have done the research and have ammunition to keep things in your favor.

 

What your dealer is going to accept is completely unknown. I got $3200 off MSRP which I thought was a good deal for the town that I live in factored with the local demand. I personally think anything north of $3000 off MSRP is a good deal, in general.

 

Yeah, that seems like a reasonable target. This isn't Dodge, you're not gonna get 15K off.

 

I’d shoot for 5k off msrp and go from there. I imagine Colorado is similar to Oregon demand wise. I pulled 4K off msrp in December of 2017 on a brand new 2018. It was one of the first to hit that dealer’s lot at that time. I imagine people should be able to do better than that 6 months later. Good luck!

 

Understood. These offers reflect around $3,500 to $4,500 below MSRP while they are still getting their d/h plus holdback. Seems like a possibility that they may consider a few of them based on unknown factors such as time on their lots etc. We'll see.
Thanks for the continued feedback guys.

 

Yeah and your going to NEED that $15K for repairs! lol!

 

I am a little confused. Did you already start negotiating with these dealerships or have you just done research on what they have in stock?

I would not offer any price to a dealer right up until I was ready to buy. I would let them tell me what the lowest price is they would go.

I did my deal completely via email and phone. I did not have to deal with any of the in person bull shit. And I say that as someone who worked as a Toyota Salesperson for 1.5 years, although it was decades ago. I would encourage you to just tell each dealer what you want and let them come at you with a price on what you have in stock, assuming you have not already negotiated with them. Then just tell the next dealer exactly what the other dealer has and what they are offering for a price.

For instance, my DCSB OR came with the Toyota accessory skid plate, which I thought was kinda cool and I didn't mind having but not something I definitely wanted. So I did not ask for it when I told each dealer what I wanted on the truck. They will try to sell you what they have and they will try to tell you that there is added value if the truck has options that you do not want. My response was the same. I would say to the dealer that I do not want those options so it is not my problem if they have a harder time matching a price at another dealership who has a vehicle with less options. If you want my business give me the lowest price.

If you do go into the dealership, be ready to walk out. The biggest benefit you get by NOT going to a dealership is that they will play games and not allow you to leave and the amount of time you spend at each dealership will increase with each dealer until you are exhausted and in great shape to make the best decision.

 

I have been dealing with dealerships back and forth for the past week or so as well (looking for a 4x4 DCLB). I'd guess those are pretty close to the bottom they will go from what I have seen, but a decent chance of getting atleast one if not a few of those offers. I ended up putting a deposit on an SR5 yesterday for $31,834. The MSRP was $36,063, so about $4,200 below, similar to alot of yours.

 

I got 5500 off SRP for 2018 OR. That was 2700 below invoice. This was on the last day of the month.

 

Sorry...I understand my approach to the post may have been a little confusing. After researching online what others have paid and what I approximately believe to be invoice plus throwing out several "feelers" online I came up with the prices I'm comfortable paying for each of the units I listed. I weighted the offers (in part) due to options and colors I wanted. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so I'd take a color I don't love in exchange for a larger discount etc. I understand the dealer couldn't care less but if they can cater to any of these offers I'd be stoked with any of the deals.
I am going in to talk to a few local dealers at this point due to A)I've kind of reached my breaking point in keeping all these emails straight and B)I'm hearing impaired and prefer talking to a human being in person. Lastly, I actually consider myself a pretty good negotiater so it's easy for me to stick to my #'s.
Thanks for the info!

 

Keep in mind, you get your best price when you are walking out the door. There is nothing wrong with telling each dealer that you will let them know if you are going to buy from them, making sure you are polite and sincere about the time they have spent helping you to find the right truck at the right price.

 

Do Not Negotiate from the MSRP down.Bring the invoice with you and negotiate up from that price.They are already making 2-3% on the dealer hold.

 

You should be able to do well below invoice especially at this point and time so negotiating up from it is not a great plan. If you are talking about the invoice price the customer can see (what’s on this forum) that is.

 

Online price is very reasonable for SoCal. If you two can meet somewhere between their online price and yours, you will have made off like a bandit out here.

 

I agree 100%... the dealerships knows everything about the price (invoice, hold back, incentives financing floor planning, what the competition sells for, etc.). The one thing they don't know is what YOU are willing to pay... don't lead with that. Let them make the first move and be prepared to leave. The best deal is the one they're willing to let get away... if they let you leave, it means that's probably their best offer. If you trade, don't talk about that until after you agree to a price on the new truck. If you're financing, know what the market rates are in your area, before you talk to the F+I guy (Credit Unions are typically the lowest, but the Toyota rate is pretty good right now).

 

Car pricing is going to be regional, based on supply and demand. Your "deal" in one part of the country is going to be a rip-off elsewhere, and vice versa. Make use of online services like truecar.com, Edmunds, etc., just to get a feel for what people are paying in your area. This will at least give you a baseline about how realistic your price is. Don't let them draw 4 boxes; don't sit there for 2 hours negotiating.

If the salesman sleazes you, just politely say nevermind and leave. There are thousands and thousands of Tacomas, and you will eventually find one.

-Craig

 

I would go with #5.

Sam truck with similar MSRP and similar OTD price.

These online services are to the benefit of the dealer. Trucar.com used to be for consumers until they were pressured by manufacturers and dealers. 90% of the reported prices are significantly higher than what the vehicle can actually be purchased for.

Perfect example of this is the F-150, MSRP on a specific F-150 was $48,000, the best price sold in my area was $43000. I know for a fact I can fo to that same dealer and leave with the exact same F150 for $35,000. Domestic full size trucks can be purchsed for 12k-15k below sticker yet you wont see that on Trucar or edmonds.